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Discussion Starter #1
The "Hoot" location on the passenger side has become so popular, I'd like to become a bit more "stealthy" and install the temperature probe for my Juice/Attitude on the drivers side?


It looks like it would be pretty straight forward to drill and tap a hole just in front of the exhaust manifold flange and smack dab on the bottom of that manifold. This area can be seen by looking up just in front of the oil filter. It's a bit tight depending upon what drill you have. I've got a slim profile air drill that works beautifully.


For routine warantee work: remove the Juice/Attitude/EGT probe and cap the fitting. You'd have to look pretty hard to know anything is different.


I also think this would make the install a bit cleaner since you wouldn't have to run EGT probe wires across the firewall.
 

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Mine is installed in the driverside manifold ..... One thing to consider there is more restriction in that manifold ..... J Kennedy has Pics of it on his web site in Tech info I believe .....

As soon as I aquire a Attitude I will be drilling my other manifold for comparision left right banks .....

My goal is to have pre and post turbo EGT readings tho ,but what's a extra hole in the manifold for testing purposes .....

Mac
 

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If there is a bit more restriction in the drivers side manifold, wouldn't the egts be a bit higher? Sounds like that would be the place to monitor it.
 

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I have the EGT probes on both sides. It is nice for comparison but the problem I have is that the probes are not identical. I have one slow probe and one fast one. It is a bit more of a pain to do the driver side due to the restrictions like you mentioned with the space for the drill but it is doable.


If you do both sides try to get two of the same probes so the left right comparisons are more valid.
 

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I have one on both sides. DS has a fat, slow probe; PS has a skinny, fast probe. DS goes to an Attitude, and PS goes to a SPA 211.


During steady state driving (cruise on highway), both track each other very well, sometimes to the degree. Non steady state, SPA reacts much, much quicker; can see 1500+ degrees on a HOT level 4 or 5 blast, while Attitude may not even register 1200 degrees.


No pictures, but both are in approximately the same manifold locations. There is enough room on the DS; I used a full size cordless drill for drilling.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies.


Yeh Mac. I noticed that too. The Driver Side manifold is quite a bit smaller in diameter? I'll check JK's pics.


Man, got cold here in Albuquerque. Gonna have to wait for it to warm up a bit before I do any drilling.


Geo.
 

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Do you guy remove the manifold to take care of any shaving or just drill them and don't worry about it ?
 

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wakeboarder, some have pulled the manifold, most of us have just drilled the hole at idle and let the manifold pressure blow the chips out. There's very little risk to the exhaust side of the turbo or wastegate from the small chips that cast iron produces, anyway.
 

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Wakeboarder-


Most of us drill and tap the manifold with the engine running so it blows the chips out before they can enter.


Not to steel the thread, but do you have any pics wakeboarding?? It's off season here in CO, read healing time!!





 

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It's all about the towing! ( truck & boat) What type of tow do you have for the water? Not to get off subject or any thing. I have got a nice super man some where. I'll see if I can find it. How do I post it?


Thank for the info on the install. I don't really want gauges but every one talks like the are a must. No HP tune yet.
 

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To stay sort of on track. If nothing else, install an EGT gauge. I installed mine in the cubby next to the radio. Looks nice and factory and is easy to read. Some prefer the pillar mount, I didn't so I found another spot for it:





We used to have a 99 Larson SEi 186, but sold it and bought a camper. We now do most of our watersports behind our friends 99 Regal 18 footer. The only pic I have of it, is behind our 5er. We end up towing it as we are at or slightly over the length limits compaired to his setup depending on which website you read for limits.


To post a pic, click the button and browse to your picture and upload it. Here is the pic of the train before leaving my buddies house:


 

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Discussion Starter #12
4x4man, nice gauge install. Ok, since you went and showed your "train" picture!!!


Did you do the receiver hitch on the back of your FW? Spent about an hour last weekend laying under the rear of mine and figuring out a design. I like to do my own welding/fab on stuff like this. I figure 1/4 plates on the ends of 4" thick wall tubing for cross pieces. Two of these about 2' apart and then mount the receiver tube to the bottom center of the 4" cross pieces. Voila!


How 'bout lights on boat trailer? I'm thinking about a small relay box at the back of the FW with separate feed so I don't melt down the switch in the dash.


With my outboard down I think I'll be about 6" under 65' and with it up I'll be about 6" over our 65' limit.


BTW, back on thread. Holy spoons! Go check out the picture of that driver's side manifold!


Strangled Exhaust


It looks like there's only about a 1" hole through that necked down area where I was thinking about putting the probe. JK actually did a sort of "porting" type operation on his to open this area up.
 

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Sorry didn't mean to hijack the thread...hehehe
I didn't do the welding nor the plan, I had a friend custom make a hitch by reinforcing the bumper and actually making it the receiver so to speak. He put in cross braces at the ends for strength and tied it into a 1/4" plate of steel that is under the center of the bumper, which is tied to the 2x2 square steel for the receiver. He then reinforced the side tubes for extra stregth. Sorry don't know the terminalogy, but will post a pic and a link of all the pics of the fabrication.


On the lights, I just tied into the trailers existing light wires to run the boat. On my trailer there is a wireharness running on the inside of the frame that contains the wiring for the lights and stuff. I probed the wires for their function and then spliced in wire to goto the bumper (no scotch locks here!!). To make it clean, we installed a 7 way plug into the bumper and ran the wires through the bumper so it would be clean and no wires dangling anywhere. I have had no problems with my turn signals running slower when fully connected. Hope this helps!








http://www.webphotos.com/list_photos.asp?mi=3&smi=1&a=93738
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hmmm, great pics Bob.


Sure does give me additional ideas to think about. I've already got a rear bumper on the FW, but it's so flimsy it barely holds the sewer pipe. I'm surprised my spare tire mounted there hasn't twisted it in two.


I'll toot the horn when I go by Aurora on my way to Ft. Collins.



Thanks again,


Geo.
 

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Geo,


Yeah, these bumpers are flimsy, that is why so much reinforcement was needed to make this idea work. The other option would have been 1/4" thick 4" square tubing to replace the bumper, but the cost would have gone up considerably. He assured me that with the reinforcing he did, it would be very strong and I would have no problems. As luck would have it, he was right!!! Good luck with your creation!!


Bob
 
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