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Discussion Starter #1
I've gone through 2 now in 2 years.

It's a little white plastic clip that's part of the ball & socket joint that connects the clutch pedal to the master cyl. When it breaks, I can still shift and drive, but it just makes a lot of racket.

Is it just me?
 

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No, you are not the only one.

In my case they just replaced the whole clutch assembly (under warrenty).

Are you able to buy this clip seperately?
 

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I just replaced my white plastic clip too :rolleyes:. They aren't that expensive IIRC.
 

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Diesel Technician, Formerly Bob Galet
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That happened in my 6.5. I think it was like $3 for the clip at the dealer.
 

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Is this the thing that make all the creaking noise? my buddy did a ZF6 Swap and his creaks real bad when you depress and let off the pedal. Any idea's?
 

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As far as the creaking goes, I use a teflon dry lube to quite the noise.
 

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I just had a piece of white plastic fall out from under my dash, assuming it is part of the same part you guys are discussing, is there any trick to replacing it?

It also seems like my pedal travels further up or maybe it is occasionally getting "caught" part way up from full travel and makes a loud clicking noise, is there pedal adustment or anything that should be done when replacing this "white" piece?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sounds like yours broke too. The trick to replacing it is to go under the hood and twist the clutch master cyl clockwise ~ 45 degrees to disconnect it from the firewall. After that, it's easy.
 

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I keep a spare on hand!
 

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The first one i put in broke, immediately dealer told me that it helps to heat them b4install. I did this and went smooth btw new from dealer was almost 30bucks
 

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are you all running stiff clutches??? the reason i ask is because i have no problem with my south bend zf6 in my chevy but i have a ford with one and i have a stiff valeer(sp?) clutch and it has broke several. I think its just from having to apply more force and putting that little plastic bushing under more stress
 

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I need to replace that white plastic retainer. To rotate the master cyclinder, do I need to disconnect the Hydraulic line, or will it rotate at the fitting below the reservoir? If I have to disconnect it at the quick couple, will I lose fluid?


It would be really sweet if all I have to do is rotate the master cylinder 45 degrees, slide it forward a little to pull the pushrod out of the pedal, pop the new white thingy on the pushrod, and slide it all back together.
 

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I need to replace that white plastic retainer. To rotate the master cyclinder, do I need to disconnect the Hydraulic line, or will it rotate at the fitting below the reservoir? If I have to disconnect it at the quick couple, will I lose fluid?


It would be really sweet if all I have to do is rotate the master cylinder 45 degrees, slide it forward a little to pull the pushrod out of the pedal, pop the new white thingy on the pushrod, and slide it all back together.
Not sure if you got your question answered or not, but I just did a clutch pedal job this weekend on my '04.5 LLY ZF6 CCSB.

How I did mine was: Go under the dash and find the silver rod coming from the master cylinder to the clutch pedal. Push the clutch pedal in a little bit and try and unclip the white bearing from the pedal. It's got two retainer tabs on opposite sides that you pinch and it should come free from the pedal. Mine wasn't that bad to get free, but it was probably original and worn. Once the master cylinder is no longer "connected" to the pedal, go under the hood and rotate the master cylinder about 45° clockwise to get it free from the pedal assembly. I unclipped the brake fluid sensor going into the reservoir, and the 6-7 pin connector that comes out of the firewall within a few inches of the master cylinder. I also took the fuse box plastic cover out (two retainers on the engine side of the fuse box, just peel it back and lift up). From there you can get the complete master cylinder out by wiggling and wedging it between the wires/hoses. I didn't have to remove anything vacuum/fluid related at all to get the master cylinder out.

You might be able to get the white clip/bearing thing off while keeping the master cylinder in the vehicle, but it was a two-handed job getting the plastic bearing off of the ball on the master cylinder and I'm not sure I would have been able to get both hands under the dash to try and do it.

Hope that helps.
 
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