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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OR is it as much apita as it appears to be in the manual?

Anyone ever pull a silverado dash completely out before?

I read about I/P pivot bolt(s) in the procedure. Wishful thinking I suppose.

Objective is to R&R an mode actuator, the on-vehicle service guide say to remove I/P (Instrument Panel), see Interior Trim 10A4 bla bla...

There, I read about I/P pivot bolt(s). nope couldn't be that easy.

GM's Master AC tech diagnosed a bad door actuator, but wasn't more specific other than to say the dash must come out and the "estimated" cost of that repair was 'round $500.00 if that was all that was found...

Problem- NO HI fan and/or ?? the AC isn't blowing "forcefully" from dash vents and appears to be blowing from all vents. Maybe even outside?
Admittedly, theres been alot of **** spilt down the center dash vent over the years, coffee, capachino, soda's, etc etc. Theres also been stuff fall down into the defrost vent, pens, straws, paperclips, coins, nails, etc etc so I thought Id tear it all apart and thoroughly clean everything while that deep into it.

Only now Im having second thoughts cause all the plastic parts are extremely brittle (done broke a couple tabs) and all the nifty foam/rubber/vent gaskets are all but dust soo... too late to verify his diagnosis. nearly have the dash out already and........ I have a choice to make.. stop and put it all back together and live with it OR forge on and hope for the best..

Frankly it looks like I've bitten off more than I dare chew, at least in a day or two... Thats why I allotted all week, only now Im concerned thats not enough time to source all these specialized foam-rubber-insulation pieces and the few new clips and what nots, modules and/or motors, etc.
With a couple weeks and the right materials, no doubt I could fab suitable replacements but......

Parts- For sure I want to replace at least the inaccessable actuator with new ACDelco from a reputable supplier, or?
Where might I source these misc insulation pcs?
Is there anything else that I may want to tackle now while the dash is out of the way?
Where can I find a handful of those metal clips, plastic guide pins, and other snap together fasteners. Last thing I want is a rattle...

Think I'll sleep on it, see what yall might suggest and make a few parts calls in the am before etching anything in stone.

help meh.. Thanks
 

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Does it blow from the lower heat vents normally when you switch to that mode and then seem to plug up when you switch to dash vents?
I've had these dashes out for a/c work many times, no fun at all.
 

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...

Problem- NO HI fan and/or ?? the AC isn't blowing "forcefully" from dash vents and appears to be blowing from all vents. Maybe even outside?
...
I don't know if the hardware is the same as on my '98 but I had essentially the same thing happen; lost Med Hi fan position and air blowing everywhere but not with enough force to make a bit of difference. Turned out to be a bad diverter door actuator/motor/gizmo tucked away inside the main ductwork housing over the DS hump against the firewall. The linkage to the diverter door on mine is behind the dash but directly above my right foot and next to the steering column. I disconnected the linkage to the diverter motor and duct taped the door lever permanently in the dash vent position.

I never did get the Med Hi fan speed fixed. I'll worry about that when Hi quits too. ~FH
 
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I got a Dorman actuator from Amazon, and it's better than the original.



I was able to finagle the mode door back into place, but I'm planning to pull the dash & REALLY fix it, eventually. How about posting pics of what you're doing?

I wouldn't sweat the foam. Just buy self-adhesive foam weatherstripping at HD/Lowes/Ace... and apply it into the shape/thickness needed. Look just above & to the R of center of this pic:

 
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Have you checked the blower motor capacitor as the cause for eratic fan function? I thought I saw where these models had them. I have a newer model Chevy and I have replaced that thing about once every other year. I finally figured out to put a fuse in the main power supply line so now that blows out before the capacitor burns up.
 

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Interior was same 95-99? If so then:

The mode door actuator? That one is above the accelerator pedal, no need to remove the whole dash. You can see it if you just look up above the pedal. Blend door is a glove box / ash tray thing. Recirculate is the one that apparently needs the dash removed.

On all my trucks from that era the actuator motor worked fine, the doors themselves were the problem. I was able to repair them without taking the dash apart. You gotta be able to stand on your head with your arm twisted into a pretzel for half a day but its possible. I did a write up on it here with photos. I think it was in the interior section.
 

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Pull down on the 2 door arms above the servo and make sure they are not stuck. Many times that fixes the problem.
Auto part Machine
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Freddyack- Thanks for the links, very helpful IDing these pcs.

Glagulator- Yes, I do believe so... Switching from heated floor vents to dash (and/or other) vents will sometimes sounds and act as if it becomes plugged up for a bit.
I contributed that to capachino gumming up the works, once the heat started rebrewing the sludge, the flap/actuator motor would overcome the stickies and snap/pop into position..

FloridaHorseman- I may need to go that route yet.... Real hesitant about yanking the dash completely out. Just taking the screws out from the defrost vents has exposed severe stress cracking, the plastic surrounding the center fastener and several grills crumbled with zero force applied. Imagine I'll loose several more grills and open/extend some of these tiny stress cracks Im now seeing...... well everywhere... if I proceed..
That will teach me not to let the wife and daughter to put there feet on the dash during family road trips ever again..

dieselmike1- I'll check with them too. Thanks..

Steve83- Time permitting, I had planned on taking pictures during reassembly, after thoroughly cleaning everything. Been using the manuals as my guide. Surprisingly, the step by step "on-vehicle service" instructions appear fairly accurate and everything looks much like the many illustrations. Im thinking it may be more helpful to add some actual pics to the manuals step by step instructions..
And thanks for suggesting self adhesive weather stripping. I was thinking tool box liner kit would be a good alternative and could be fabbed to match OEM.

Rattler1- Unfortunitely, I did not and Ive been kicking myself in the cash for not doing a more thorough job at dignosing the problem 'fore ripping into the dash.. With just a few more screws, I think its ready to come out..

57diesel- Im thinking you may be right, door(s) stuck, cemented in place by capachino or lodged by something. Sort of why I wanted to tear it apart and hose it out persay. start anew like the rest of my brand new OEM $3500.00 AC system that still doesnt *%#@ing work for ****... But hey, they assured me this last part, a part that worked just fine prior to them "fixing" it again ought to once and for all fully restore my AC system back to its pre-engine replacement, freeze your ace out of the cab with the quickness, glory days....
PLEASE DONT ASK, SOSDD with incompetent factory authorized GM facilities.......

Glagulator- I will definitely try that when I get back out there. cant hurt to try at this point, only cant verify it works without putting it all back together, or can I visually?


JFYI. In some unscrupulous authorized GM Service Centers..
A comprehensive "Refridgerant System Diagnosis" doesn't include a "Functional Test" or "Performance Test" of the HVAC controls. go figure..

Thanks again.. Going to hold off yanking the dash for a while longer. keep the ideas coming, thinking 'bout contacting the local salvage yards.. $600plus for a new dash isn't likely going to happen unless its NOS that was actually molded in burgandy, not spray painted bs..
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ahhh.....

OK... checked that "Y" linkage. Not good..

The upper spring lever closest to the firewall was disconnected from that particular doors lever.
Also, that doors lever appears bent and the doors shaft was pulled out the airbox a couple inchs, the other end was flopping around inside the air box...
Managed to finangle the doorshaft back into its perch or pivot point but imagine a couple bumps and its back to flopping round... So what holds that shaft in place?

ah so deep breaths... Now what?

Found a dash cap that glues directly on the existing dash.... wished that was '95 NOS, it would already be in route...
Waiting for the local salvage yards to call me back with avail and/or price...
 

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Also, that doors lever appears bent and the doors shaft was pulled out the airbox a couple inchs, the other end was flopping around inside the air box...
Managed to finangle the doorshaft back into its perch or pivot point but imagine a couple bumps and its back to flopping round...
That's exactly what mine looked like, but it has stayed in place for nearly a year with my flat-track-style driving. :bigglasse
So what holds that shaft in place?
Apparently, nothing but HOPE from the engineer who came up with it. :shake:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
been searching hours for pictures or illustrations of the inside of that plenum box (heater case?), no luck so far.
'Bout ready to break the duct tape out.
 

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Oven Kitchen appliance Machine


Product Machine Metal


Automotive exterior Bumper Vehicle Vehicle door Auto part


So it's not cooling like it used to?

 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
65 madness- I dont have an account, unable to access the download.

Glagulator- Thanks for the pics, very helpful but I still dont see what retains the doorshaft in place. Is there a c-clip somewhere or what?


I assume the door in question is the top one in this pic? unlike the others, it appears it could shift/slide out the airbox a couple inches.
 
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