Diesel Place banner

1 - 20 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,320 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Good friend of mine with '04 Duramax did a little light fourwheeling last week and bent right tie rod. Any info on better ones yet? He is running H2 wheels with green keys. thanks,


mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,605 Posts
ouch I'll just stick with my beefed up stock tierods
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
457 Posts
Trippin said:
<font size="2">Prices are as follows:

1-Unit Dealer Price: $1,300 plus additional $250.00 core charge </font>
Trippin what exactly are you getting for the money and where are you getting the parts/prices from?

Reason I ask is you can get a set of custom made chromoly tie-rods with heim joints on each end for $300-400. It doesn't get much stronger than that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Heim joints on steering parts is very dangerous in my opinion. Heim joints will fail and come apart when they wear out. There is little warning that this is going to happen. TRE's tend to get sloppy when they wear out and not just come apart. I will do some checking on tie rods for you guys as I have a shop I use for rock crawling parts that was thinking about making some for the Dmax since the owner has one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,698 Posts
mtomac,


Any pics or info on how you "beefed up" your stock tie rods.


Thanks, JP
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,605 Posts
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
I see the picture here and am guessing that you are showing this to prove there is room. Maybe I am confused, what part of the tie rod are you guys breaking? I didn't think it was the outers?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,605 Posts
The picture below highlights the inner tie rod. It is snapping off at the threads or bending in the middle where I have it beefed up. The inner tie rod attaches to the centerlink (GM calls it a relay rod, not shown in picture) on the inside and threads into the outer tie rod (sometimes refered to as the tierod end) on the outside. The outer tierod is still stock.

Edited by: mtomac
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,698 Posts
I seee, said the blind man as he picked up the hammer and saw.


JP
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Thanks for the explaination there. I have been talking to my buddy about this over the phone but, since I don't have my truck at the south pole, it has been hard to visuallize. He was mentioning something about parts availability and that the inner was only sold with the entire unit or something of that nature. I think I may see a solution but, let me talk to him about it and see what we can come up with before I go opening my mouth and inserting my foot
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,605 Posts
camp

How does the dppi exhaust sound, fit, ect. I don't like v8 turbo diesel flutter and too much noise when towing
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
6,539 Posts
My relay rod is starting to look a little loose. While installing Timbrens I noticed slop in the joint where the inner tie rod connects to the relay rod. Whith the front on a jack I was able to move the tire back and forth a good bit while watching the looseness.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Ok, I just got off the phone with my buddy and we think we have a solution for those of you breaking tie rods. Since I am at the South Pole right now, I won't be the one building the prototype but, we should have one soon. I will keep you guys updated what we come up with and how it works for us.






Oh yea, and I like the sound of my exhaust. I don't think I get the drone that everyone else talks about. It is pretty loud at WOT but, I like that so, it works well for me. It is not nearly as loud as my rock buggy with a 351W and dual flowmasters
Edited by: camp
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,210 Posts
y2kboti said:
Trippin said:
Prices are as follows:

1-Unit Dealer Price: $1,300 plus additional $250.00 core charge
Trippin what exactly are you getting for the money and where are you getting the parts/prices from?

Reason I ask is you can get a set of custom made chromoly tie-rods with heim joints on each end for $300-400. It doesn't get much stronger than that.

I followed the previous posted link.


http://forums.atsdiesel.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=441
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
457 Posts
mtomac your beefed up design looks good. Cures the small diameter rod and is probably the easiest solution. Only downfall is the slop in the factory joints.

camp said:
Heim joints on steering parts is very dangerous in my opinion. Heim joints will fail and come apart when they wear out. There is little warning that this is going to happen. TRE's tend to get sloppy when they wear out and not just come apart. I will do some checking on tie rods for you guys as I have a shop I use for rock crawling parts that was thinking about making some for the Dmax since the owner has one.
Could you please explain your reasoning? First off nothing is indestructible but heim joints are much stronger than the factory inner and outer joints. Both have their pros and cons. Heim joints would eliminate any play in the steering linkage with the exception of the pitman or idler arms. They are stronger and will not self destruct as you pointed out. Cons are they do require some maintenance(need to keep them clean, a shot of WD-40 every once in a while works) and are expensive. They would also require some fabrication to make them fit. If you are concerned about their durability why do rockcrawlers and monster trucks use them on most of the suspension and steering components?

Trippin said:
Thanks. The price on those is outrageous!!! It would be cheaper to fabricate an entirely new 'relay rod' that would accept heims on the inners than to pay a core charge for a modified factory relay rod. If anyone in interested contact Bulletproof Suspension, sorry I don't have their number off hand, they will build you a set of chromoly tie-rods with inner and outer heims for less that half of what PPE wants. You will have to drill out the outer mount on the steering knuckle and modify the inner mount but you won't be disappointed.Edited by: y2kboti
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
For what it's worth, as I don't feel like going into full engineering details on all of it right now, hiems will not take all the slop out of the steering. They actually have quite a bit of slop in them, especially if you don't buy the really high dollar ones. Yes, I know, I compete professionally in rock crawling and build my own rigs. I do have multiple hiems in my suspension and have used them in my full hydo steering set up, not to be driven on the road. I will not use them again in steering where I can get away from it. I have broken hiems and it is not pretty. As for how we and monster trucks get away with it, we take everything apart after each event and most of the time replace joints on a regular basis. We actually try not to use any more hiems on our suspension than we have to as well. That is part of the reason items like Johnny Joints exist. We build some of our own rubber joints to get away from hiems but, in some situations, the amount of articulation we have to be able to achieve, requires us to run a hiem. It is a range of motion thing, not a strength thing. Here is a pic that will show that a hiem is all we could use. This is the testing of the range of motion on my current buggy's 4-link rear while we were building it.


 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Top