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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Gents, been a while since I've been on the forum, but have a new question for you. I have a 1994 GBM motorhome with the 6.5. Due to a blown piston I replaced the engine with a low time Ted's pull. New HX 40, new ARPs, O ringed the studs, crank girdle, reconditioned exhaust manifolds, etc. etc.
My question is: is there an alternate port, other than the oil pressure port that I can run a separate oil pressure switch for the fuel pump. I have already done the OPS mod, however the points in the oil pressure sender keep burning out anyway. So, do any of you have a suggestion for where I can tap oil pressure for just a switch? I already have the pressure sender mounted on an extension with an additional oil pressure sender for a separate gage.
Thanks for your time and any info.
Jeff
 

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With the OPS mod the OPS should not be having that problem.
Activating a relay is milli-amps.
Are you using an AC Delco OPS?
Does your Ted's engine have the OPS port under the intake? (1996-up)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
With the OPS mod the OPS should not be having that problem.
Activating a relay is milli-amps.
Are you using an AC Delco OPS?
Does your Ted's engine have the OPS port under the intake? (1996-up)
Thanks Glagulator, it is an AC Delco, the original had gone bad now this one it seems. I've been having some electrical glitches however, and you got me to thinking that I should test the electrical coming into the OPS. I have previously only checked the line out put to the relay in the mod for power. The oil pressure sending unit is working however since the oil press displays on the dash.
The oil pressure sensor is almost parallel to the engine speed sensor in the back of the engine. The engine speed sensor is on the passenger side and the OPS on the drivers side if remember correctly, just a couple of inches where the bell housing bolts on. It definitely is not under the intake manifold.
I have been pretty much picking around things to fix electronically. Since I finished the engine replacement, it runs like a dream for about 20 minutes then the engine shuts down (it appears the electrical shuts down, thus shutting off the DB2). Coasting to a stop on the road or shoulder is getting really old. I just put a fused switch from battery to DB2 power so that it will not die if I have to drive a distance. Coasting to a suitable landing spot without much of any shoulder on the roads around here is way to exciting for my appetite. Not having any electrical schematics available for this 94 Spartan EC2422 chassis does not help. It just isn't available anymore. This is the old Georgie Boy motorhome with diesel pushing.
Anyway, I drifted off topic here, sorry.
If you have any ideas on alternate oil port, let me know.
Thanks Glagulator.
There is a slight chance that these could be related, but I think not.
 

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This port is the same as the OPS port.
It is above the oil cooler ports.
Might be difficult to get a fitting into.
Look where the 96-up OPS is located in 2nd photo.
Your engine may have that port, they still have the rear port also.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This port is the same as the OPS port.
It is above the oil cooler ports.
Might be difficult to get a fitting into.
Look where the 96-up OPS is located in 2nd photo.
Your engine may have that port, they still have the rear port also.

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Glagulator thank you. The ops on the second picture is not like mine, it is more in the valley, away from the tranny. The first picture does look too tight without manifold removal. What about putting a fitting in the oil cooler lines? Is there the same pressure?
Thanks again, hope you had a great Thanksgiving.
 

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The port shown here runs directly down to the left-side oil gallery. Mine was 1/4" square drive, and even after 25 years, easily unscrewed with less than 10 ft-lb, YMMV. The photo shows with a 1/4" breaker bar engaged in the plug. Thread is the same as my OPS, 1/4-NPT. If your plug has an internal hex or square drive, I suggest you clean out all the detritus to preclude stripping. BTDT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The port shown here runs directly down to the left-side oil gallery. Mine was 1/4" square drive, and even after 25 years, easily unscrewed with less than 10 ft-lb, YMMV. The photo shows with a 1/4" breaker bar engaged in the plug. Thread is the same as my OPS, 1/4-NPT. If your plug has an internal hex or square drive, I suggest you clean out all the detritus to preclude stripping. BTDT.
Hi BoiseBurb, terrific pic. That shows me a different aspect. The alternate port you're showing me, is exactly the port that my engine has always used. Glagulator also pointed out that there may be a port in the valley of my engine, where your OPS is presently. Thanks much for your response;)
 

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I am putting an engine together and noticed that the clearance between the oil port
being pointed to in the above photo and the exhaust manifold is not tight at all.
I would have no problem getting a fitting on there. It is not behind the manifold even though it looks that way.
You may want to look at yours.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I am putting an engine together and noticed that the clearance between the oil port
being pointed to in the above photo and the exhaust manifold is not tight at all.
I would have no problem getting a fitting on there. It is not behind the manifold even though it looks that way.
You may want to look at yours.
Thanks Glagulator, after all that work, I sold the RV and bought one with a 8.1 Vortec, hopefully it will last me a while. Thank you for all your help over the last several years.
Jeff
 

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Probably a good move.
I've always thought a 6.5 in an RV was a stretch.
 
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