[Bigol20fan]

Here's the deal.....Im getting home in 3 days and am ready to dump some cash on the ol Dmax. I want to put an edge juice with attitude in, but is that all I need for electronics? Im ready to drop about 1500 on this if needed....but I have no idea what I want. Am I going to need some other "codes" work done or something. Ive read on here about changing codes, but I have NO idea what thats all about.

 

[bobo]

You need a Predator v 2.02 for reading and clearing codes (can't clear trans codes though) and for EGR code defeat, an EGR Blocker Plate, a Fingers/Kennedy Boost stick, an Edge w/ attitude v1.2, and a boost gauge. If you want to do without the Predator and you have a laptop, get EFILive. You can turn off the EGR and clear all codes (including trans) with that. You won't need the boost gauge, the boost stick or the Edge w/ attitude if you have EFILive. If you decide to get EFILive, I'll help you with it. You can find everything at these sites:

Merchant Automotive
Huckstorf Diesel
Kennedy Diesel

 

[Bigol20fan]

Thanks bobo! Here's the question...im kinda out to lunch when it comes to this computer stuff, so what is the benefit of all this. I can understand what is going on with the intake/exhaust, being a marine engineer and all, but I guess i dont have enough electronics background to understand exactly what the predator, an egr blocker plate, and a finger stick do? Thanks again for your help....ill try and check out those sights and figure some stuff out on my own, but any insight you can give is appreciated!

 

[Loader]

You need a Predator v 2.02 for reading and clearing codes (can't clear trans codes though) and for EGR code defeat, an EGR Blocker Plate, a Fingers/Kennedy Boost stick, an Edge w/ attitude v1.2, and a boost gauge. If you want to do without the Predator and you have a laptop, get EFILive. You can turn off the EGR and clear all codes (including trans) with that. You won't need the boost gauge, the boost stick or the Edge w/ attitude if you have EFILive. If you decide to get EFILive, I'll help you with it. You can find everything at these sites:

Merchant Automotive
Huckstorf Diesel
Kennedy Diesel

Yes, thanks Bobo! This has to be the cleanest, most complete list of things needed for getting started that I've come across.

Allow me to expand it for Bigol20fan...

Code Tool - needed to read and clear codes that may cause a Check Engine light. Predator will do this as will other systems.
Gauges - some way to see what's going on with boost and exhaust gas temp (EGT) is essential.
EGR Plate - The stock truck routes exhaust gas through a cooler then into the intake in an Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system. Block this to keep hot exhaust from being sent into the intake track, but this could cause a code.
EGR Code defeat - To stop the factory systems from registering a malfunction (throw a code) about the EGR, you'll need to be able to turn off that circuit or "fool" it. One way is the Finger Stick. This is a little wiring kit that adjusts electrical signals so the factory systems think the EGR is still working properly.
Boost system - some system that increases fueling to gain power. Edge, Bully Dog, PPE, Banks - there are a number of them.
Boost Stick - this is another wiring modification. This kit when installed "fools" the vehicles' systems into thinking that the boost being generated by the turbo is less than it actually is. Getting more air into the cylinders that are already getting more fuel due to the boost system you choose will help combustion and therefore increase power created.

Hope that helps! This site is a great place to learn! Just keep reading!

 

[bobo]

Those are all things I have had on my truck and each one has never given me any trouble. They all work together and they are all plug and play, no wiring needed, with the boost stick being the biggest PITA to put in. It isn't too bad, but I had one of the first ones with no directions. It wasn't all that fun to do.

You will gain the most performance with programmers or boxes. A programmer(Predator) plugs into the truck under the dash and reflashes the trucks computer (PCM,ECM...). Once programmed, a programmer is removed from the port under the dash and not used until another flash is desired. A performance box (Edge) plugs into the trucks computer under the hood. It stays on the truck and is mounted under the hood. It receives the signal the truck is sending to the motor, remaps the signal in the box, and sends the motor an updated performance tune all while the truck is running. An exhaust is needed to keep Exhaust Gas Temps lower. Programing generaly creates more exhaust gas and causes higher Exhaust Gas Temps.(EGT's). The aftermarket exhaust systems get rid of the exhaust quicker, keeping unwanted heat from building up. A plug in box(Edge) can only fool the truck into running higher performance, so you can't reset ECM codes(they set the service engine soon light (SES)), calibrate the speedo, etc. A performance box can be changed on the fly. Normally, a programmer can't do that. A programmer (Predator) can change the computer code, so you are able to program the speedo for tire size and rear end gear changes. You also can clear trouble codes with a Programmer. Most programmers can only access the ECM. EFILive can access more than the ECM, so you can clear and read trouble codes from the Trans. (TCM) too. Most programmers come with several tunes already loaded on them. You select the tune you desire and load that into your truck. EFI live lets you make your own tune. EFILive gives you full control over you trucks programming. You can make it do what you want by changing the tuning to your liking. It is easy to use.

 

[Bigol20fan]

Thanks a lot guys, that definatly helps, alot! My only other questions is the danger on stacking the predator chip with the edge juice, or do they do two totally different things? I love my truck, and I want a monster, but I dont want to blow the damn things up. Im guessing that after all these mods are done Im probablly going to need a beefed up tranny? Sounds like if I just go with the Juice, I should be alright, but all the other mods, probablly blow er up huh?

 

[Horsepower Upgrades]

You will have to do something to the tranny. They are only built to take so much stock. I am currently working on a Dodge, and after a full blown tranny rebuild its awesome. It was a lot to sink into one area, but now thats done I dont ever have to worry about it again.

If you add things slowly you can monitor the tranny as you go. You will know when you get to the edge.....trust me.

 

[Drywall1]

Dont think the Edge will save you from tranny troubles. I'm a good example. Obviously your not gonna go and blow your wad on a trans upgrade right now but DO keep it in the back of your mind. Only had my edge/att regular for 4 months and she started limping the tranny left and right. Most trannys wont go this quick, Durotothemax had his last thru quite a lot of abuse (stacking and a good beating) but...as far as I'm concerned when you start with the programmers or the boxes start a little tranny fund I now have a solid trans and now feel real good when I put the hammer down. Just be prepared, is the best advice I can give you. Nate

 

[bobo]

You can run all the mods I listed and you can stack the Edge w/ the Predator. You will not be using a tune from the Predator, just the EGR defeat option and the speedo recal if you need it. The boost stick and the Edge on 2 is safe. BS and Edge on 3 is pushing the limit of the stock trans. If you tow, use the Predator on the 40 hp tune. It is great for towing. The Edge on 1 w/ BS is good for towing also. You can leave your Edge on 0 and tow with the Predator if you want. If you turn things up, you will toast the trans in no time. Your trans will be fine if you are smart. If your driving style is aggressive, get a trans now! I do not recomment using the Edge to stack with anything other than the way I just described. If you use the Predator for tuning, leave the Edge on 0.