Diesel Place banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
718 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello. I was wondering if anyone knew the part # or any other way to get the magnet that is "supposed" to be inside the spin on filter for the allison transmission? I did a flush yesterday and when I removed my spin on there was no magnet inside it anywhere. I looked really good too. Basically, I need help finding one of those.


My second question is how difficult is it to raise your front end via torsion bars? It doesnt look too difficult to me but I know someone here will have a better answer.


Thanks for all the help in advance,


Jason
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
514 Posts
GM Part Number for the magnet is 29535617.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
389 Posts
max farmer


you get a deep set socket and you start turning the bolt on the side of the bars in the rear of the torsion rods





02 chevy drw cc lb 4x4 lt/10 lug conversion,xde 245r 19.5 alcoa's


afe,magnaflow,banks acutator,transynd,delvac 1,amsoil bypass


putco ful running board system


38' prowler 365flts fifth wheel,with all the goodies,14100lb's loaded


www.chromewheel.com/gallerypages/johntruck.htm


www.chromewheel.com


www.putco.com
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
514 Posts
If you put the front on jackstands or take the weight off the front end it makes it a whole lot easier to turn the bolts for the torsion bars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
398 Posts
If you take the weight off the front end while doing this count the number of turns you go with each side and keep them the same or your truck will cop A lean.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,310 Posts
The magnet is not in the filter. It is a large washer on the top of the filter where the oil flow holes are. You might want to retrieve the one you took off. Wipe the dirt off and put it on the new filter. Later! Frank
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
514 Posts
Good point Frank. I didn't catch the "inside" the filter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
718 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks so much for the help! I just assumed it was inside the filter. I know exactly where I left my filter and it should be pretty clean yet. I'll have to check it at the shop tomorrow.


Thanks Again! Jason
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
747 Posts
I agree with Hound - jack the front end and set it on stands. IIRC, it took about 3-3.5 turns to set my front end at or just below level. Dmaxallitech sells the magnet on his website and it's fairly cheap, but his store site is down for maintenance right now. www.gmdieseltech.com
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
389 Posts
i'm all for lifting the truck, but the reason i did not say to lift the truck is you have to measure both wheel wells to keep it level. and the only way to do that is to leave it on the ground. turning the adjustments equal number of turns doesn't mean your truck will be level. torsion bars are not perfectly equal in thier torsions. and your truck does not weight the same on both sides, lifting makes it easier but not level. to make mine level drivers side is 3 turns more than passenger.





02 chevy drw cc lb 4x4 lt/ 10 lug conversion,xde 245r 19.5,


afe,magnaflow,banks acutator,transynd,delvac 1,amsoil bypass,


putco running board system


38' prowler 365flts fifth wheel,with all the goodies,14100lb's loaded


www.chromewheel.com/gallerypages/johntruck.htm


www.chromewheel.com


www.putco.com
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
747 Posts
I agree tulsa and my driver's side bar is turned up higher, but I jacked it up, turned the bars equally, sat it back down and measured. I did this 4 times before I had the truck sitting the way I wanted it. My driver's side tb was already screwed in farther when I picked the truck up from the dealer. My guess is that it is done this way because of the fuel being on the ds of the truck. It took more time doing it my way, but I have a tendency to strip, round off, or cause other types of damage to bolts, so I wanted to take the weight off of them before turning.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
389 Posts
i thought it was because of the fuel tank to. only ,in general i dont have enough time to do all that lift and lowering, it is the best way,but not necessary.


john


02 chevy drw cc lb 4x4 lt/10 lug conversion,xde 245r 19.5,


afe,magnaflow,banks acuator,transynd,delvac 1,amsoil bypass,


putco running board system


www.chromewheel.com/gallerypages/johntruck.htm


www.chromewheel.com


www.putco.com
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
509 Posts
What happens to your alignment specs after adjusting the torsion bars? Are you still able to align within specs or are you sacrificing the tires for the lift?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
389 Posts
i have noticed no change in any to the alignment,and as to the spec's, on almost every truck if ever owed alignment tech's have said those number are mere guide lines at best. because as your truck wears out the front end parts it is near impossible to keep those numbers where they were when it was new. most shops i have seen don't even use a computer on trucks, who knows why,i dont. the change in ride height is so small that i dont think it even changes your alignment.





02 chevy drw cc lb 4x4 lt/ 10 lug conversion,xde 245r 19.5,


afe magna flow,banks acutator,transynd,delvac 1,amsoil bypass,


putco running board system


38'prowler,quad slides with all the goodies,14100lb's loaded


www.chromewheel.com/gallerypages/johntruck.htm


Edited by: tulsa1718
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,310 Posts
If you want to take the load off the torsion bars jack the truck up by the frame. In other words, lift the frame up and the tires will stay on the ground. On 4X4s place the jack on the frame between the lower "A" arms. You will be able to turn the bolts with a 12" ratchet. This is a trial and error process. Get it as close as possible, drive it around to settle everything and re-measure. I used to be a front end mechanic. The settings need to be set according to GM specs. It is true that there are guidelines and I will give you example. The camber spec might be o degrees to +2. Perfect will be +1. Chances are anything from 0 to +2 will give you decent wear but if you are already at either extreme and hit something you are in trouble. When you raise the front your camber will go negative a little and it will toe in a little. All reputable alignment shops will align the truck just like they do a car. Tulsa was right when he said things change as the front end parts wear that it is why it is wise to keep an eye on tire wear. If your tire aren't wearing even take it to a shop and have it checked. This goes double when installing a new set of $700 tires. Later! Frank Edited by: Frank Blum
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
718 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Thanks again! Thats just what I was going to do. I wont go into my new tire situation here, but thats how I was going to approach it. Raise them to where I want them and then take it in to get aligned and I'll probablly have them give it a thurough greasing underneath since I'm sure Ive been missing a few places here and there...


Jason
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top