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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I found a pair of the original air ride seats from a Kodiak. Everything looked great. Looking like direct bolt in. NOT a chance. So okay fab up brackets no problem. Whoa the seats are way to far forward. Scoot them back as far as I can. Finally done. Now on to adding a compressor in one of the cabinets. My question is how big of an air tank is needed? Bought a viair 444 compressor with the pressure switch etc. Thinking half gallon but maybe a 1 gallon? Any thoughts appreciated.

Forward thinking....I'm looking at building the air ride cab system and perhaps using the same air system for my trailer saver air ride 5ver hitch. Thinking the compressor is sized right. Question is air tank Sizing. Any thoughts or recommendations appreciated
 

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Well I found a pair of the original air ride seats from a Kodiak. Everything looked great. Looking like direct bolt in. NOT a chance. So okay fab up brackets no problem. Whoa the seats are way to far forward. Scoot them back as far as I can. Finally done. Now on to adding a compressor in one of the cabinets. My question is how big of an air tank is needed? Bought a viair 444 compressor with the pressure switch etc. Thinking half gallon but maybe a 1 gallon? Any thoughts appreciated.

Forward thinking....I'm looking at building the air ride cab system and perhaps using the same air system for my trailer saver air ride 5ver hitch. Thinking the compressor is sized right. Question is air tank Sizing. Any thoughts or recommendations appreciated
Tell us a little more about your Med. Duty ( Year, Make, Model) and list all mods
(y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
08 Topkick C4500 8.1L. Regular cab 2wd,. Added the air ride seats in the photo. Cab air and possible air line to my hitch in the very near future. Truck is my daily driver.
 

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If you'r only gonna need air for those air ride seats, I'm betting a single gallon holding tank will work. Once the seat is adjusted you'r good to go. The biggest challenge will be keeping those fittings from leaking. Good quality pneumatic push to connect style by Parker work well. If you find you need to replace the air tubing, a square cut makes a huge difference.
I'm a big fan of these cutters for this and other hoses.
https://us.amazon.com/Craftsman-9-37301-8-Inch-Handi-Cut/dp/B007KHDUTE
The blades are replaceable.
FWIW, I'm running a gallon holding tank for my rear airbags and triple locomotive horn and the gallon tank keeps the compressor silent....most of the time.:)

Edit: If your compressor didn't come with isolators, you might consider using some to mount it.
It will make a big difference in db.
Ace hardware caries similar at a lower cost.
 

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I hve the 2 front air ride seats, the rear air bags and the trailersaver air hitch all hooked up to a viar pump and a 2 gallon tank. The rear air bags are ride height adjusting, so they constantly bleed and replace air as the truck goes down the road. The seats and the hitch pretty much are stable once they are pressurized. I also use the tank and compressor to air up my truck and trailer tires, so I think 2 gallons is probably required. I am even considering adding another tank to keep the pump from cycling as much as it does. Also, it seems impossible to stop all the air leaks, and my rear air bags will
deflate in about 4 to 5 days if left sitting.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you'r only gonna need air for those air ride seats, I'm betting a single gallon holding tank will work. Once the seat is adjusted you'r good to go. The biggest challenge will be keeping those fittings from leaking. Good quality pneumatic push to connect style by Parker work well. If you find you need to replace the air tubing, a square cut makes a huge difference.
I'm a big fan of these cutters for this and other hoses.
https://us.amazon.com/Craftsman-9-37301-8-Inch-Handi-Cut/dp/B007KHDUTE
The blades are replaceable.
FWIW, I'm running a gallon holding tank for my rear airbags and triple locomotive horn and the gallon tank keeps the compressor silent....most of the time.:)

Edit: If your compressor didn't come with isolators, you might consider using some to mount it.
It will make a big difference in db.
Ace hardware caries similar at a lower cost.
Yes my compressor has the isolators on it. I did get a cutter from Amazon with an assortment of fittings and 30ft of airline. I hope to get a price on bending up the metal for cab air ride this week.
 

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Yes my compressor has the isolators on it. I did get a cutter from Amazon with an assortment of fittings and 30ft of airline. I hope to get a price on bending up the metal for cab air ride this week.
Check those fittings once done. A weak dish soap solution and spay bottle work well. I have a feeling those fittings from Amazon might be Chicom. Air leaks can be a PITA that's why I only use brand name and DOT approved fittings.
Keep us posted on your progress. Those seats will surly add a level of comfort.
 
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Well I got things mounted. I'm not sure I like the layout just yet. But I'm getting there. The LCD screens are the voltage amperage and voltage monitors for my generator in the bed.
Does your tank have a dump/drain?
 

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In colder temps the compressed air will condensate. A 1/8” or 1/4” threaded coupler at the lowest point would help. Those tanks are inexpensive enough to replace if and when they leak from rust. But if your on the road and can’t adjust your seats that could be a hassle. Tig welding would work perfectly. Even MiG would work with a skilled weldor.
if you decide to have one installed, buy the drain valve (petcock or ball valve) then the the fitting. This way your not hunting for the correct size dump adjunct to fit an already welded fitting. Your setup looks functional just some loom and clamps to tidy up the wires. Nice job.
 
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