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Forum Troll
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My thinking at the moment is this.

1. Failing fuel pump. It does work some tho cause I put my finger over the suction side and pumped the lever a few times and got some suction. Not sure of why I can`t suck fuel out of a pail even with the damned electric pump. That`s just weird
Barring some act of god, I's say the LP is no good. If it won't suck even from a pail unless the line you have from the pump to the pail is bad.

2. Leaking fuel filter. When I think about it, the problem got a lot worse after replacing the FF a few weeks ago. Also it took a LONG time to get the truck going after the filter change. Then I had a no start the next day. I've felt fuel at the bottom seam but there's been fuel everywhere in the last few days.

3. Various pin holes in the supply line. I found one hole that was under a zip tie that was holding a return line to a supply line. Also fond some a clean area of fuel line along the frame rail. Nothings clean on this truck. Don`t know if there was a leak or not but I cut the line as close to the tank as I could get. Lots of old dirt where I cut so no fuel leaking in that area or above.
Common spot for these unseen to the naked eye is on the fuel line pickup right where it bends to the tank.

4. Possible problem with the pickup tube, that one I`m not so sure about though since when it`s running it runs with very little air then without warning there`s huge air and stall then no start.
See above
5. My disintegrated cab mounts make the cab crush part of the pick up tube soft line. Don`t know if this is possible but the no starts have been mostly when parked with the pass side up on a snowbank. Surging has been most common when making turns, both conditions that make the cab move around.
Sounds like you know where to look.
I would have a fuel pressure gauge handy as well. You should see 4-7 psi min. you should NO air.
Hope that helps.
 

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respect the DB4 5722....
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Road trip ????:driver::truck:
 

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R.I.P. Sam
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Sean, get it running from the pail like you plan. you need to isolate the cause before throwing parts you can't afford at it. As to the cause, I'm at a loss, but think your on the right track
 

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Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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How about this theory, smackzed said he felt suction when he tried the mechanical pump by hand, what if anything faster is some how making it crap out and not pump.

Or maybe it couldn't prime with the jug on the ground.

Smack is the mechanical pump on or off the motor?
If it's on maybe try to set it up higher than the pump and see what happens.
You might have mentioned it before but not sure if you tried it.
 

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R.I.P. Sam
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i have a dumb thought about a plugged pick up sock, or holes in the pick up, that when he turns right, the fuel sloosh's and he looses supply
 

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Mad (Sean) Max
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Discussion Starter #46
i have a dumb thought about a plugged pick up sock, or holes in the pick up, that when he turns right, the fuel sloosh's and he looses supply
The hole in the pickup tube would make sense except it ran when the fuel was at 1/2 tank, Parked with the pass side up on a bit of a snowbank and no start. Added 40 litres/10 gallons and still no start. And right now it sitting on fairly level ground and no start.

I'm really thinking that the electric pump could push fuel down but not up.

Mechanical pump is back on the engine. There's a possibility that I've installed it somehow that the lever is beside the push rod rather than against it.
 

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respect the DB4 5722....
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The hole in the pickup tube would make sense except it ran when the fuel was at 1/2 tank, Parked with the pass side up on a bit of a snowbank and no start. Added 40 litres/10 gallons and still no start. And right now it sitting on fairly level ground and no start.

I'm really thinking that the electric pump could push fuel down but not up.

Mechanical pump is back on the engine. There's a possibility that I've installed it somehow that the lever is beside the push rod rather than against it.
i dont think that is possible due to the machined bore the rod runs in... if it did happen, for sure the arm on the LP is broken or bent.... i really think that it is time to drop the tank and change/verify the sender, we have changed/repaired several that the pickup and return tubes were rotted and leaking flush with the senders top.....
 

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Here is a quick way of finding your issue.

It's an old fuel cap and a BBQ regulator. Just pull your cap and install this one set to no more than 5 psi and start looking for where the fuel is coming out of, fuel line, return lines, fuel pump and or into the oil pan.....

It also is the fast way to bleed the fuel system, after filter change..., without an electric pump.
 

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Mad (Sean) Max
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9,602 Posts
Discussion Starter #49
I'm done. Starter failed this morning. I guess it didn't like getting cranked 200 or so times in 4 days. Still have yet to see fuel at the filter. Looking for my receipt to see How long the warranty was. I bought it 7 months ago so I'm sure it's a 6 month warranty.

After looking at all the things wrong with it (mainly insane rust issues) I've decided to retire the old *****.. Then I was talking to my father in law and he said, hey, haven't you wanted a crew cab for a while? I know a guy selling one that the body was redone a few months ago. Kinda made my mind up. So i think I'll be buying that and parking the ***** for a while. If I get fed up with feeding a 350 (i'm sure I will) I'll see about swapping in the 6.2.

Wipes away tears, I've had this truck longer than any other. usually i buy disposable truck, they last 2 years tops and they get junked, I've more than doubled that with this one. But it just isn't worth it anymore.
 

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When you swap the 6.2 in to the crew cab at least you can start with a clean slate. All new fuel lines and the such.
I'm sorry about your luck, You'll get it eventually!
 

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R.I.P. Sam
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Damn it Sean :(
electric pump's don't suck well, but they push real good and it sounds like the mechanical is toast. if theres an air leak, they will have a hard time getting prime.
check on the starter warrenty, its usually 90 days or 1 year
 

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Mad (Sean) Max
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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
Yeah, i agree. That damned starter just frustrated me to no end. i know it's my own fault but it still just gets my goat.

I've actually been looking for a crew cab for quite a while, a couple years at least. I'm actually kind of excited. Plus I should be able to use a lot of parts off my truck for it. I just put new shocks on and the front tires are fair. I'll be able to keep my spare, I'll have a spare rear axle if it comes to that. Also lots of new in the last year or so front end parts. Pretty good all around. Except the spending money part.
 

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Mad (Sean) Max
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9,602 Posts
Discussion Starter #53
Damn it Sean :(
if theres an air leak, they will have a hard time getting prime.
That's been my thinking of why i haven't been able to draw fuel, that and partly kinked clear line that when it gets some draw, it kinks up tight.

Anyway, if the starter warranty is still good great. If not I'll see if Dave can give me a tutorial on starter re-building.
 

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R.I.P. Sam
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32,078 Posts
Anyway, if the starter warranty is still good great. If not I'll see if Dave can give me a tutorial on starter re-building.
go for a visit to Jeff and Jim, starters are very easy. testing if armature etc is good is the expert part
 

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Mad (Sean) Max
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Discussion Starter #55
That's a good idea. they've actually offered to make a visit this weekend to help me get the old girl sorted but I think my mind is made up. I would like to see them sometime though, check out the new shop,
 

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I can see why you'd toss in the towel since it's as rusty as you said. I seriously felt like just junking mine after 6 months of finding leaks and almost being left stranded several times, and mine doesn't have any rust.
 

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Too bad your thrownin' in the towel, compare the cost of a replacement truck to what you got into yours and my vote would be FIX R!!
 

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Mad (Sean) Max
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Discussion Starter #58
replacement truck $2000.

New cab for my truck $400, New inner fenders $100 each. Flat bed or new box. $200-$500. Rear brakes, $75-$150. Paint job $75 for tremclad. New filter base (most likely) $50-$100 depending on type. New fuel lines, Not tons of $ except time. New exhaust, $200. Rear tires, $100 for used installed. Plus all the time to do this stuff or pay someone else to do it. A lot of it I don't have the equipment or knowledge to do.

What's still good. Engine itself and IP. trans, Frame, front end. rear axle, various random things like shocks etc... Oh and the radio works.

If the new truck wasn't a crew cab I'd keep at it but being a crew cab and a 3/4 2wd that will exchange parts with the old one it's worth it to my mind. I had a pretty good year last year and my wife has been complaining about the eyesore in the driveway for 2 years at least. Just to make her happy is pretty good. Even the kids have been talking about what a piece of junk my truck looks like.
 

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respect the DB4 5722....
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replacement truck $2000.

New cab for my truck $400, New inner fenders $100 each. Flat bed or new box. $200-$500. Rear brakes, $75-$150. Paint job $75 for tremclad. New filter base (most likely) $50-$100 depending on type. New fuel lines, Not tons of $ except time. New exhaust, $200. Rear tires, $100 for used installed. Plus all the time to do this stuff or pay someone else to do it. A lot of it I don't have the equipment or knowledge to do.

What's still good. Engine itself and IP. trans, Frame, front end. rear axle, various random things like shocks etc... Oh and the radio works.

If the new truck wasn't a crew cab I'd keep at it but being a crew cab and a 3/4 2wd that will exchange parts with the old one it's worth it to my mind. I had a pretty good year last year and my wife has been complaining about the eyesore in the driveway for 2 years at least. Just to make her happy is pretty good. Even the kids have been talking about what a piece of junk my truck looks like.
well, if you are lookin to get rid of the motor, think of us, although i would be swappin it in a heartbeat, and scappin the gasser.... we are still on the prowl for a 4 door too.... got 2 dually diffs here to swap in and i can get a box with the dually fenders for 200.00... so if you happen across a 4 dr that is motorless, or differentialless, or just in general bad shape, but otherwise complete, let us know...LOL
 

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Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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Smackzed , what's gonna happen is a 2 step upgrade......

Upgrade one will be 4 doors instead of 2
Upgrade two will be putting the 6.2 in the crew cab.:D

Sorry to hear about the troubles, these mechanical things can be a real pita sometimes.

Looking forward to the "I got me a 4 door post" and then the 6.2 swap thread:D
 
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