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I have to step on the brakes very hard to get the Suburban to stop. Of course the problem gets worse at they heat up. I have replaced the front calipers had the rotors turned and the rear drums have been adjusted. Is there anything else I can do to improve break performance or is this just something I have to deal with?

Thanks.
 

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mine seems to be same way, I thought for the longest time that I had an air bubble in line or something, bleed them multiple times and time and time again, even pumped the fluid from the brake side up into the lines... adjusting helps, peddle doesn't seem as responsive as it should. Front work excellent. I'd be curious on the subject also. Best thing would do like TD and upgrade to disk but... $$$
 

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Stainless steel braided brake lines to replace the factory rubber lines will make a BIG difference in the pedal response. And is a cheap mod to do(about $70).
 

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Check the power stearing pump fluid level and leaks at the power booster. A hard pedal can be a weak power booster.
 

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Do you have to replace the hydroboost, or can they be rebuilt (i.e... change out some o-rings, springs, etc...)?
 

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Stainless steel braided brake lines to replace the factory rubber lines will make a BIG difference in the pedal response. And is a cheap mod to do(about $70).
Ferm, while I feel this is a must do upgrade for the small amount of money and time spent, I didn't feel they made a huge difference in my sub. However,would I put them in again? Yes. When mine doesn't stop... been here a hundred times
1)Are you SURE the fronts are ok and the pads are contacting the ENTIRE rotor surface. I thought mine were but only 1/2 the rotor surface was being used.
2)Any fluid at all gone from the front master cylinder reservoir (rear drum reservoir)? I've done wheel cylinders twice so far with only 120,000 miles at the time of last change.
3)Are the drums adjusted right to the ragged edge of dragging? This is where I find a huge difference in pedal feel and stopping power. I adjust mine every couple of months or 5,000 or so miles. At the very least I check the adjustment.
4) Hawk Truck and SUV pads and new rotors made all the difference in the front of my sub.

This is the longest I have been even remotely happy with the brakes in my truck since new. That being said, I am always looking for more stopping power. Once you drive a motorcycle that can flip over forward using only one finger on the brake lever, everything else pales by comparison.BTW the first set of front pads were almost completely gone with only 25,000 miles on the truck. Assume nothing is good and check everything. Sorry for :blahblah:
 

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I replaced the stock rubber brake lines with a stainless braided line kit by Goodrich. I also changed all of the brake fluid and refilled with fresh DOT-4 fluid. The combination made a huge improvement in brake pedal feel. Not sure if it did anything for my stopping distances, but it certainly feels much more responsive and positive.

I would try doing this first. If it doesn't help, the master cylinder and/or power booster may be going bad. Don't underestimate what old brake fluid with moisture in it can do to your braking performance - it can really reduce braking performance and pedal feel.
 

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Stingray (or anyone else), where did you get your braided lines from?
 

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Stingray (or anyone else), where did you get your braided lines from?
I got mine from tirerack.com. I think they were about $90 for the set if I remember.
 

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I got mine from Summit.
 

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Got mine from JC Whitney made by Goodrich also. Got drilled rotors there don't know if they have them for you 8 lug guys, and Titanium brand Hi performance pads.

Before upgrading to calipers on rear, keeping the drums set for light drag was only way I could stop it quick, got real scarry when hooked up to the back-hoe & trailer a couple of times when I forgot to reset trailer brake control for max assist.

Booster can be rebuilt check here http://www.mbmbrakeboosters.com/ for kit or replacement booster (Thanks for heads up GMCTD) These guys supply mostly for older restoration vehicles, but braking parts are similar to modern ones
 
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