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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi again guys. Ive been quiet for a while now, occupied with fixing the problems with the truck.

Anyway, a new confusing thing appeared. Ive been out driving around and was going to drive the truck in to the garage. I pushed the throttle to half and nothing happened.

The rpm did not climb for at least 5 seconds, no pull from the transmission until the rpm started to climb, and then I got all of it and had to slam the brakes.
It took me 4-5 times just to get the truck in to the garage without smashing throu the rear garage wall.

It seems to be something wrong with the turbo. The theory was that the turbo dont spin as fast as it should and therefore acting as a plug for the exhausts in the pipe.
That theory has been shoot down by others, but a thing that could support the theory is that the turbo now is quiet, no spool sound at all from it when I rev up the engine.

I have a instrument for the boost on the dash, and when I rev the engine the boost needle goes to minus instead of plus, and instead of making overpressure in the intake, it makes underpressure and maybe starve the engine for air....???

I removed the rubber sleeve in between the turbo and the intake tube, and when I placed my fingers in the gap, I could not feel anything from the turbo, no blow and no suction. Ok, thats a classic sign of a defekt turbo you will say, but no one here with or without turbo experience says that the turbo should be defect.

It s almost no play, no scratching the walls, no leakage of oil, easy to spin with fingers, no markings or damage to the props, everything is in order as far as anyone can see.
I even removed the turbo and exhaust couplings just to take a look down the pipes for any obstruction that could explain a low flow to the turbo, but nothing.

I removed the turbo and installed the air filter directly on the intake.
I plugged the opening on the turbo housing and forced the gases strait down the ex.pipe to mimic a ordinaire suction engine, and the truck felt even better than it did with the turbo, before this latest problem.

As far as anyone can se and feel, there is nothing wrong with the turbo or the exhausts, but what is wrong then ??
As you can see, I have a weard problem and I really need some help from you guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ohh I forgot.
I do have a couple of codes, but they got nothing to do with my turbo problem.

I got a 62 that is the boost sensor. A new one is in route from the US.
The other is 34 and that is the stepper motor on the inj.pump.

If anyone could give me a hint on where to get a new stepper without ruin myself, I would be very happy and thankful.
 

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Clogged soot trap? That is what we called Catalytic Converter except it is really not that just some material to catch the carbon/soot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Clogged soot trap? That is what we called Catalytic Converter except it is really not that just some material to catch the carbon/soot.
Naaa, not really. My truck lack both what you call a soot trap, and a catalytic cleaning of the gases.

I have no idea if its supposed to be that way, or if the guy I bought it from did a removal of something vital.

I am actually a little concerned about that, and the upcoming yearly checkup all Swedish registrated cars have to endure.
 

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I have a really good method to de-bunk your turbo problems. But it's very weird that you get underpressure and no suction at the same time.


I'm reasonaby sure this is a fuel/control(like acelerator pedal or IP) related problem.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have a really good method to de-bunk your turbo problems. But it's very weird that you get underpressure and no suction at the same time.


I'm reasonaby sure this is a fuel/control(like acelerator pedal or IP) related problem.
Yes that thought hit me to, but where do I go from there. I hope that you guys feel generous today, and want to give this Swede some pro support.

I went out for a ride yesterday with the engine rigged as a suction engine, without the turbo that is.
On the way home it started to show the same symptoms as it did before with the original turbo setup.

I had to throttle down really carefully, if I went down to hard on it, the rpm was climbing veeeerrryyyy slow and I had to back off. To drive with a raw egg between the foot and pedal is absolutely a serious suggestion.

If the only problem was that the turbo was lazy, or if I only got this rpm problem, I would understand and adress the problem as a single problem, but whats the connection between the turbo and the rpm ??

I wont bet my life on the theory that the problems appeared at the same time. I think that they did, but theoreticly one problem could have appeared and then triggered the other.

My biggest question is ”what to do now” ??? I guess that my next mission would be checking the diesel filter and also check for any leaks around the manifold.

Whats the turbo thing you wrote about ?? As far as I could see there is nothing wrong with the turbo, HOWEVER all energy left me at this time so I ordered and payed for a new turbo insert with fresh bearings, axel and wings.

Easy to swap and less problems is my thoughts. (With my luck there is nothing wrong with the old one, and I have now wasted $260 on something I dont need)
 

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Hey to sverige...

The Turbo has principal only 3 Pieces:
(1st) the Exhaust Wheel with its Blades, that give about the solid Shaft same Speed to the
(2nd) Compression Wheel on intake Side...and
3rd the Wastegate...

You can check the Wastegate is working correct ? ..stuck or stays open all time ?

Check the propeller on Exhaust Side ,Blades are damaged , a common problem is the inner Crosspipe loose their corroded parts and will damaging the Turbo.

Or the Problem isn't the Turbo ...?..may be it came from too less Fuel while acceleration (for Idle its enough) .
Water or Air in the System, has checked the Filter for Dirt ?..or much badder ,Dieselalgs in your Tank ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey to sverige...

The Turbo has principal only 3 Pieces:
(1st) the Exhaust Wheel with its Blades, that give about the solid Shaft same Speed to the
(2nd) Compression Wheel on intake Side...and
3rd the Wastegate...

You can check the Wastegate is working correct ? ..stuck or stays open all time ?
MY BOOST SENSOR DONT WORK, SO THE WASTEGATE SOLENOID WONT GET A SIGNAL TO OPEN FOR THE VACUUM TO THE WASTEGATE. THIS PROBLEM IS TEMPORARALY SOLVED WITH BRIDGING THE VACUUM WITH A SHORT HOSE. HOWEVER THE WASTEGATE WORKS FINE SO FAR.

Check the propeller on Exhaust Side ,Blades are damaged , a common problem is the inner Crosspipe loose their corroded parts and will damaging the Turbo.
I HAVE BROKEN DOWN THE TURBO AND PUT IT TOGETHER AGAIN 4 TIMES BY NOW.
THERE HAS BEEN OTHER KNOWHOWS HERE AND CHECKED IT OUT WITHOUT FINDING ANYTHING. I TOOK THE TURBO TO A CARPART STORE IN TOWN WITHOUT ANY ANSVERS. EVERYTHING AND EVERYONE SAYS THAT THE TURBO IS FINE, AND THATS WHAT MAKES THIS THING SO WEARD.

Or the Problem isn't the Turbo ...?..may be it came from too less Fuel while acceleration (for Idle its enough) .
I DID THE BUBBLE TEST WITH A TRANSPARENT HOSE ON THE FUEL LINE, AND IT WAS OK.
I ALSO CHECKED THE FUEL PRESSURE, AND THAT WAS PERFECT.
I WILL CHECK FOR DIRT SOONE, AND ANY ALGEA I TREATED WITH THE WYNN BIO CLEANER

Water or Air in the System, has checked the Filter for Dirt ?..or much badder ,Dieselalgs in your Tank ?
WATER WILL BE CHECKED AFTER DINNER, AND KEEP THE IDEAS AN SUGGESTIONS COMING, I AM VERY HAPPY FOR ALL THE HELP I GET FROM YOU.
 

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I am actually a little concerned about that, and the upcoming yearly checkup all Swedish registrated cars have to endure.
Move to the us and straight pipe that mother#^@k3r! Lol

:hehe: I like a good laugh.

I do agree with sirleitet (I usually do) likely an issue with the optical sensor, throttle pedal (tps), fuel delivery related issue.

The vacuum pump/ boost solenoid and ecm controls the turbo and wastegate. Likely the ecm is shutting the turbo down due to a problem with the ip / tps/ fuel delivery issue

:thumb: hope this helps...
 

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Oh yes... ,i forgot.., they start '94 with electronic IP, not '95...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, case closed with the new turbo casette I bought from ebay. Everything now works like it should again, and I still have absolutely no idea why the old one refused to work.

My only theory is that the old axel and props felt like it did work in room temp, but when hot exhaust gases hit, it started to spin slower.

Now I would like to thank all of you that donated from your time to read and write on this forum, just to give this confused Swede a helping hand.
Thanx guys .........
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi to you guys "over there"......

It´s been a couple of years with fixing old problems and just use the truck. I really like it and so far I have invested a lot of money and time in getting it right.

The engine has been working nice since I got the new turbo and a couple of new sensors, and for the last 2,5 months I have been fixing rustproblems in my garage, and 2 days ago I could finally take it out and drive it to the Swedish yearly checkup that will give me right to use it on the road.

When I was going home again it started to loose so much power so I did not think I would make it all the way..
If I was pumping the throttle fast I got a reaction, but it was very close to stall all the way home.

When I got home I got a DTC 36, 85 and 96. Its the 36 that´s got me worried, and I really hope that you guys in this forum have a answer on what to do, and how to do it, and I really hope that advice is not to buy a new injection pump since I have invested moore money in repair than the price of the truck was when I bought it, and a working used pump in Sweden cost between 1500-2000 USD..........

I really hope that someone still have som energy to deal with the crazy swede again.....
Thanx a lot from a summerwarm Sweden......
 

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I would start by going back through all grounds.
Perform a lift pump test Reference Material: Lift Pump/OPS

The 96 code is a cylinder 6 imbalance. Try moving the #6 Injector move to another cylinder and see if the imbalance moves to that other cylinder.
If it does move then you have an Injector issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I would start by going back through all grounds.
Perform a lift pump test Reference Material: Lift Pump/OPS

The 96 code is a cylinder 6 imbalance. Try moving the #6 Injector move to another cylinder and see if the imbalance moves to that other cylinder.
If it does move then you have an Injector issue.
Thanx for that, and I will get on with it in the morning.
I may also mention that when I was fixing the frame under the bed, I dropped the gas tank for inside cleaning and fresh paint.
since my problem seems to be related to fuel, I thought I should mension that
 

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I am new to these trucks and not an expert like others here, but since you mention you dropped the fuel tank... any chance you could have gunk in the tank clogging the pickup screen? I'm not sure it explains why you would get no throttle response, then a sudden surge, unless perhaps it is an intermittent fuel flow blockage causing the fuel supply to come and go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hi and thanx.
I’ve been working towards that theory to, and just found out that there is power to the liftpump, but with no ground. Now i will take it down and benchtest it.
there is one weird thing with the power, I get up to 20-25 v. but if I read postings here it could be a lot of fake voltage reading with and without load.
if I’m wrong I hope someone will post a correction before I’m frying the LP.
 

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An easy way to see if the LP is working is to attach a tube to the 'vent' at the top of the fuel filter housing, going into a container or can of some sort, and crack it open a little by turning counter-clockwise (be careful not to damage it). Then just turn the switch on in the truck but do not start the engine. The LP should run during the 'wait to start' period and you will see fuel coming out through the vent.
 

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An easy way to see if the LP is working is to attach a tube to the 'vent' at the top of the fuel filter housing, going into a container or can of some sort, and crack it open a little by turning counter-clockwise (be careful not to damage it). Then just turn the switch on in the truck but do not start the engine. The LP should run during the 'wait to start' period and you will see fuel coming out through the vent.
An easier method is to apply a jumper wire to the lift pump and open the T Valve and allow fuel to flow into a container.
You should see 1/2 pint of fuel in the container within 15 seconds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I tested the LP and it works, there is power to the pumpcables when I crank, but there is no fuel from the bleeder, no fuel from T-valve, and no fuel from the dieselhose from the tank.
There is diesel in the tank, and when I blow through the hose it bubbles in the tank.
figure that out if you can.......o_O
 

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I tested the LP and it works, there is power to the pumpcables when I crank, but there is no fuel from the bleeder, no fuel from T-valve, and no fuel from the dieselhose from the tank.
There is diesel in the tank, and when I blow through the hose it bubbles in the tank.
figure that out if you can.......o_O
Did you apply a jumper wire to the lift pump relay to force it to run?
If not, here is how to do it: Fuel Pressure oddity
 
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