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Discussion Starter #1
Anybody done a 6.5td install in the above chassis? curious how you got the downpipe past the AC box. My service trucks don't have AC so that was never an issue. Its a real headache with my latest project. For thos who are wondering what I am talking about, I have a 6.5td "stocker" with all the "stocker" plumbing going into a earlier body.
 

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I have been told that you would have to use a bank exhaust manifold. It move the tubro mount forward or out of the way somehow for the old wide bodies truck with A/C. I've never done it myself but when I checked in to it thats what I was told.
 

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I've installed many replacement 6.5's into the early chassis to replace a worn 6.2, but never with the turbo! Good Luck! I think you'll definetly need different manifold/pipes. Aftermarket turbo kits are a pain, even though they're designed for the chassis, if it has factory A/C.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
i have two complete 6.5td's to rob parts off of. I also have an extra TE06H to throw into the mix too. So far, the TE06H shows the most promise in getting around the evaporator box. Even then, I will still be sending the downpipe on the outside of the frame die to the tight fit on the manifolds. Yes, I am using all factory stock parts if I can get away with it at all. Non AC trucks are easy to do, but AC trucks are a real challenge.
here's some pics of one of the service trucks....
 

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Over on The Diesel Page dot com GMCTD told how he did it IIRC he used an S-10 AC housing. I do know he used the 6.5TD factory manifolds.

Carey
 

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Hi is the A\C opperational? If not post back and let me know and I have pictures as to what I did to make it work on my truck that had A\C it's a bit of a bear to cut it up but once it's done works fine lot's of heat and no leaks
 

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Hi, Carey - glad to see ya over here.

Towcat, you can splice\section an S-10\15 evap housing with the original to clear the downpipe, or use the self-contained '88-up GM or late DODGE system, which installs under the instrument panel.

Some of the '88-'89 GM, and most of the late DODGE have vacuum controls.
Late GM is electronic.

Personally, I think the under-dash setup would be best, because the original system, with the evap housing in the engine bay, is meant for only 200deg ambients.

It was never meant to be adjacent to a heat source like a turbo exhaust elbow, with temp ranges 400 to 1100deg.

Even with Ford turbo shielding on the evap, it can struggle on many of these warm 100deg Texas days.

Of course, you'll want R-134 conversion when you do it - the GM orifice screen is black, and the Subs with rear air require a 134 exp valve, with re-calibrated orifice.

You using the '93 DB-2-4911 Inj Pumps?
 

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When I changed mine over from a non a/c truck to my a/c burb, I ditched the gm turbo manifold and bought a banks turbo manifold and the two crossover pipes, then you need a tubo with a straight output housing, works like a charm.
 

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Yeap DC thats what I had heard but never talke to anyone who had done it.
Thanks for your input
 

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anyone have pics of the spliced s10 housing done? i'd like to see how people are doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You using the '93 DB-2-4911 Inj Pumps?
gmctd-
thanks for your response. I am going to go with the s10 setup, due to the fact I really don't want to reengineer the entire AC/heat system.
I think the pump is a DB2-4911 unit, it is what's on the '93 motor itself and all I did was transfer it from one to another. The injector nozzles are off a '96, actually the out of five complete motors, I am using the longblock out of a '96. I am going with the TE06H turbo, so the downpipe plumbing will not be as twisted as my service trucks. I am going outside of the frame though for the initial drop.
I do have pics of the stock AC box setup with all the issues presented, but will post them later and more as this project progresses. But if someone has some completed pics to post, that would be real nice so I can see what I cam looking foward to.
 

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I don't have pics - before I foil'ed it over, tho, absolutely noone even noticed it was re-fabricated, unless I pointed out the seams.

The S-10 unit is the correct angle on the firewall, with similar size evap core, but will require cutting and sectioning with the original K- version, splicing with pop-rivets and black RTV.

It looks stock, but requires a lot of work, which is why I recommended the late-style self-contained unit under the instrument panel - only protrusion into the engine bay is the accumulator\reservoir.

It was one solution to enable using the factory turbo setup, with modified down-pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm going ahead with the S-10 box mod. I like doing things the hard way:eek:
here's a few pics of the issues, the initial discovery and the s-10 box initial fitting.... enjoy guys.
 

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That section of the frame rail adjacent the bellhousing flange is 'relieved' by about 1/2" by 12" on the K trucks, probably for the BB 454 and 6.2L clearance.

The vertical frame dimension is identical, but the kick-up there is 1" higher on the K-trucks.

As I also converted my C3500 CC SRW to 4wd Dually, I notched the frame by the same dimension, so the modified downpipe could be routed down between the frame rail and just rearward of the bellhousing.

You can see the area where clearance is required in the 3rd and 4rth picture
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The downpipe issue is going to be resolved by running on the outside of the frame rail. I squeezed the DP on the inside of the frame on both service trucks and I don't like the results. I am going to drop it right behind the shock mount and kick it back under the frame right before the bend straightens out. My biggest issue was the AC box, but the S10 has just gave me a whole bunch of room:)
 

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This is what I did for mine it works great there is no problems with the fit. I used a 3" tail pipe for two of the radiuses and a 3" 45 degree elbow and a coupler I still have the P\N for the pipes if your interested
 
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