Original line lasts 20 years cause it’s made with quality, new stuff ... who knows ....
An interesting hypothesis, however I don't see how this takes into account pintle vs.seat leakage. Is it specifically for wave washer leakage?Hi TundraWolf,
Sorry I did not read this any sooner.
A cheap and fast way to isolate your faulty injector(s):
Before going through the hassle of pulling all injectors and overhauling them, try this:
Remove all the rubber return lines on one end and plug the open end of the tube; start at the rear injectors and work to the front.
Now push a good length of clear tubing onto the injector fuel return pipe and do this with all 8 injectors; about 6Ft length of clear tube each, but remember to use exact same lengths of tubing for each injector!
Run each tube as high as possible, run them to the highest possible point under the open hood and hang them in a loop there, coming back down with the other open end hanging into a clear jar or measuring cup or alike; one for each of the eight clear tubes.
Start the engine and let idle.
Immediately you will see which clear tube is filling up unusually fast and eventually starts spitting out fuel into the jar. This is (these are) the ones needing your attention and overhaul!
A cheap and fast way to diagnose faulty injectors...
Hope this helps!?!
I actually removed the bed,the lines are so far under the cab I don't know if I can reach them to replace the lines,it looks like someone already tried changing them out, cheap hose clamps, looks like there's fuel on them.It can be done if you reach them. Why can’t you unbolt the tank switch valve and drop it down?
I actually removed the bed,the lines are so far under the cab I don't know if I can reach them to replace the lines,it looks like someone already tried changing them out, cheap hose clamps, looks like there's fuel on them.
I tried taking the bolts out of the back of the cab, I even tried using my 650 ft lb impact driver to try and remove it, I haven't used a cheater bar yet but any idea what those bolts are torqued at? How to get them out so I can lift the cab and get to the lines?
Any chance I can get in there and weld the nuts a bit better? The heat might help loosen the bolt, too. Theres quite a bit less room under my cab than in those pictures, even when I use a 6x6 and a jack to force it up a little...I'd be careful trying to loosen those cab bolts, GM didn't put much of a weld on the nut in the cab and they end up spinning. If that happens then you have to cut holes in the floor to get at the nuts.
You should be able to get at those lines without doing anything with the cab.
Dual fuel tank photos? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network
I personally would drill a 1/8in hole from the top or side and spray in lube. My personal nut buster recipe is 50/50 atf & acetone .... beats anything on the market. Dab of rtv to plug the hole after.
I have heard they like to push rather than pull, is there any issue with keeping it where I have it? Would I put it on the output from the tank switching valve instead? I could do that, but it seems to be working pretty well, unless cavitation is causing the air bubbles to form?Nice job, that electric pump should be back by the tanks though.
Electric pump like to push instead of pull.
I would put the bleed T on the line to the IP that way you would know all the air is out of the filter.