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Discussion Starter #1
I unhooked the controller when my glow plug relay wasn't working(installed manual switch)
Has been running fine. I was checking the high idle solenoid out today. Couldn't get power to it. I though maybe the controller did something for it? So I hooked the controller back up. Still same.
NOW the question I need help with.FORGET THE high idle for now.
I left the controller hooked up, went and rode it. It seems weaker in power than before(not saying it is a power house by any means). So I unhooked it. The power came back. What if I leave it unplugged. What does that hurt? Or does it really need to be hooked up? Like I said before, the controller quit operating the glow plug relay.
I wasn't sure if it helped control timing or really "shorting out" something that doesn't need to be because it is bad.
I am new to the diesel engine, that is why I am asking questions as i go along.
 

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R.I.P. Sam
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. What if I leave it unplugged. What does that hurt? Or does it really need to be hooked up? Like I said before, the controller quit operating the glow plug relay.
I wasn't sure if it helped control timing or really "shorting out" something that doesn't need to be because it is bad.
Nothing will happen, all it controls is the glow plugs, nothing else.
Your truck is mechanical, nothing changes the timing except the inside of the injection pump.

What your saying happened, should never be able to happen.
 

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Let's take the Truck!
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82 round controller is garbage. Stay manual and look forward. Leaving it unplugged or plugged doesnt matter. Youre thinking is has less power one way but its just a 6.2
 

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Your truck is mechanical, nothing changes the timing except the inside of the injection pump.

What your saying happened, should never be able to happen.
Forgetting about the cold advance solenoid, Rich?

To the OP:

There are two solenoids on the IP, one is a high-idle which presses on the 'throttle' plate and the other adjusts the IP internally for more advance.

Depending on how your timing is set currently, more advance could mean it feels like it has more power, or less. There is a switch in one of the heads (I believe passenger side rear?) that controls both the high idle and cold advance, it should have 12v hot on one side of the switch and thus it provides 12v to these solenoids when the motor is cool.

Could be that you're unplugging these as well when you unplug the glow controller?
 

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R.I.P. Sam
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I'm not forgetting anything, the cold advance isn't connected to the glow controller. Disconnecting and reconnection the wrong wiring is of course possible.
And he has an 82, IIRC, the sensor is incorporated in the controller, I cant remember if it even has the little brass one like the fast idle/cold advance one.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
I will look into that. When I plugged the controller in yesterday, the engine was at operating temp. I went on a slight hill behind the house. It would spin up the hill BEFORE plugging the controller back up. But would NOT spin and felt sluggish up same hill. UNPLUGGED it again and it spun up the hill like before. Today, it spun up the hill.
I am not sure what all the the controller does. It has way too many wires on it just to control one thing in my opinion. But it seems to run ok to me.
I still haven't got the high idle thing fixed(either way). Thought I would ask about the controller FIRST. Might work on that again tomorrow.
 

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Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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Page 313 in the student manual shows connections to the high idle and cold start advance solenoids from the early style controller...
 

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Let's take the Truck!
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Maybe ill unplug my 82 & see what happens. Seems possible that the cold advance could wire through the controller because it has like 5 or 6 wires coming from it and has always been a mystery to me. I think theyre all green and black or grey. But why would it matter ? Once the truck is up to 100 degrees Fahrenheit or whatever the cold advance kicks off so maybe his controller is shot and the advance is always on when its plugged in because its shorted out. My truck sure gets doggy when it kicks out usually within a few blocks on a cool day. I cant look at any diagrams on my mobile so just thinking:coffee:
 

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R.I.P. Sam
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But why would it matter ? Once the truck is up to 100 degrees Fahrenheit or whatever the cold advance kicks off so maybe his controller is shot and the advance is always on when its plugged in because its shorted out.
Exactly, it was up to temp so nothing should be tripped on, plugged in or not.

Page 313 in the student manual shows connections to the high idle and cold start advance solenoids from the early style controller...

Here, now if someone wants to decipher it...:whistle:

Pages from The_6_2_Liter_Diesel_Engine.jpg
 

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Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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After seeing that schematic I need to take another look on my truck, I unhooked the plug to the controller and wired the solenoid up manually but didn't really the idle being any higher but it does sound like it's running a tad advanced.
Easy to figure out with a test light.
 

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R.I.P. Sam
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Easy to figure out with a test light.
Yes, very easy.

And your schematic link made me pull another wiring diagram to add to the FAQ's, when I get back to updating. :thumb:
 
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