Well, I don't know on the Caddy front. I've been looking for tires most recently... none are cheap or easy enough for me to get to.
I did go and put a bolt onto my tranny cable.. and attached the photo (I hope) so you can see that I found a great use for the spare parts that came with my toilet repair kit. Beggars can't be choosers:.... I just hope brass doesn't corrode in diesel.
Of course, I might be putting myself up as resident pinhead #2 if I do too many more MacGuyver fixes... but I hope that would be related to the failures, not the successful ones.
I haven't seen any around town, but with a population of 35k (its fairly small) there might not be any. I'd say El Paso, but it flooded 2-3 years ago, and yes my truck is from that flood (might explain a few issues).
Move the out side of the cable outward away from the pump. push the lock tab down and move it a few clicks at a time then road test . These cables are not a one time set. you need to play and keep setting till you get the right shift pattern for your driving style. This thing about setting as per shop manual does not always work . I have been working on drivelines for 30+ years and i always " fine " tune that cable very very important to make that 700 last.
you are saying that sometimes it is late shift up you could be having a governor problem. just a guess at this point try to fine tune that cable
I'll keep playing with it. Its part of the 'fix-it now not later' stuff.
I did try the press the button and move it WOT. The cable appears to catch, and pulls the adjustment out 100% of the way, no further adjustment towards the pump possible. Then the cable is really loose, to the point of hitting the back of the slide and falling off, which seems really bad. Looking at the cable, how much work is involved with trading the cable out for the proper diesel one?
The first thing to do is to remove the cable (slide end ) from the pump , then remove the cable from the bracket mount at the pump , clean all dirt etc from around the cable area at the trans . Remove the bolt at the trans(10 mm wrench) and slide the cable out of the trans. then pull up on the inner cable till the end of the cable and wire hook are out of the tranny. With needle nose pliers catch and hold the wire coming out of the tranny ,now unhook the inner cable from the wire. Remove the cable assembly from the truck.
Install the new cable down to the trans be sure that it is straight and not bent etc. When you go to hook back up the inner cable and wire, catch the wire (in the tranny) and pull up as far out of the case as you can, hold with the needle noise then hook your new inner cable to the wire and release the wire , becarefull not to pull to hard or you will bend the lever inside the tranny .just a light pull !!! There is a boot (seal) that pushes into the trans that the cable goes into I would replace it but if not make sure it is back in the tranny before you hook the cable back up (they sometimes stick to the old cable end ). install the bolt then install into mounting bracket (at engine) and hook to pump and set !! check and adjust oil level Road test
If you run the engine for a minute before you pull the cable out you will have less oil leaking because it fill's the convertor up and lowers the level in the pan . little less mess. do not run for very long or you will be working with a hot unit.
You can attach a wire to the old cable before you pull it out, then once removed you can use that wire to pull your new cable into place .
Most of the time I have the new cable slide down in place so when I pull the old cable out of the trans i can hook up the new one right away have less oil spill/mess
so i just recently got a 1982 6.2 k25, i bought it from a kid who inherited it from his uncle after he passed away. he said that he fired the engine up and got it running and drove it down the street and it started running away on him. the truck only has 100k on it and is very clean. i checked...
So I have heard 2 schools of thought both of them from factory service manuals.
One says torque the main bearing web bolts to a set torque,
But the other says torque them to a specific torque THEN go another 90 degrees.
My question is, I have the 83 6.2, it has cracked webs like most of the...
New to this forum but have been reading it for some time. Located in Sweden and just got this old Chevy Cheyenne 6.2 1992 with some issues. When I bought it the lift pump was dead and it wouldnt start. Replaced the pump, the fuel and the diesel filter. Now it starts and runs very well for...
91 GMC C3500 6.2L J code
4L80e trans 4:56 rear end.
33,000 original miles.
Short run down is that I bought this truck two years ago and up until the transmission went it kept a pretty normal pattern of things
Oil Pressure cold would start high 3/4 of the gauge (60 psi?) and then settle to...
hi, so i have a chance to get an 86 chevy k30 single wheel with a 6.2 detroit in it. it was a registered military vehicle. i was wondering if it would be worth the 3500 for it, idk much about those engines and i also have a 30 minute commute to work through the mountains every day. can y’all...
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