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Discussion Starter #1
Evening folks,

So I'll be right up front - I don't know a damn thing about my transmission, especially if it's cable or vacuum or electric...

Here's the problem, it's shifting on RPM but not on throttle position, so going up a hill on the highway is a hell of a problem, and forget about trying to pass someone without a couple miles to get the speed up first.

I did a search through the forum but I don't see anything like this (lots of other problems though). Anybody been through this?
 

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Ok simply your trany has both electric and cable hook ups.

The TVS on the side of passenger side of the IP controls the torque converter lock up.

The TV cable controls the shift points of the other forward gears.

At the rear of the engine on the drivers side tucked below the intake is the TV cable that controls yours shift points. Does this cable have slack in it or not move in and out as you give it throttle?

I would guess the TV cable is WAY out of adjustment because the adjuster is worn out. This cable has to be set correct or you WILL shorten your trany life.

To adjust the TV cable find the black sideways D with a metal tab in the middle at the rear drivers side of the engine, behind the intake and probably under a big harness, follow the steel cable towards the fire wall. Push down with a screw driver on the tab and pull the rear sheathed part of the cable towards the firewall, hold the cable and release the tab. Then open the throttle all the way and you should hear snaps, 2 or 3, as the TV cable self adjusts.

Mark the adjuster and take it for a drive, check the adjuster again to make sure it hasn't slipped forwards, could be worn out, replace it if it has moved again. Simple enough eh.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hmmmm ok that doesn't sound too bad. I took a quick look but I'll have to go out when I have time to go over it thoroughly. (I'm supposed to be hard at work right now).

Hope you're right and that's all it is! On the other hand, I have been eying one of those Monster 700R4s...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok real quick, the TVS on the passenger side of the IP is wiring, right? I'm looking for the TV cable, but I'm going to have to pull the pressure chamber off the top of the intake to get a decent look back there.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ha! Bigboytoys, thank you very much! That was definitely the problem. There was a lot of slack in the detend cable. Put the pedal to WOT and adjusted the clip back, seems to work great.
 

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So it's good to go now, it's shifting better? If the shifts change again I'd replace it, They don't slip for nothing, they are a bit of a PITA to replace though.

Yes, the electrical bit on the passenger side of the IP is your TPS. You can tune your converter lock up point buy loosing and rotating slightly and road testing, repeat till your happy.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes there's a few things I noticed right away.

1. It shifts more smoothly at low speeds. Since the shifting had gone bad, the shift from 1-2 in the 50km/h range was really harsh. Seems a lot smoother now.

2. Does not shift under acceleration. Now when I hit the gas to get up to highway speed, I'm not battling for 5 minutes waiting for it to get up to 110.

3. Hitting the gas at speed WILL make it downshift! About damn time...

You're absolutely right though if it slips again I'll be replacing the adjuster.

That being said though, I've been tossing around the idea of building in the reverse valve body and putting in a floor shifter to take advantage of the manual-automatic, then it becomes a moot point. But hell, nothing helps getting through the mud like having that control.

I'd been having the problem with this transmission for a month or so, but not a daily driver just a trail toy so I wasn't worried. Until Sunday afternoon when I was coming up an embankment, wheels started spinning again and the damn thing shifted and I lost all power; crawled out of it eventually though. Straw that broke the camel's back. Next time might just end up being a much more involved project.
 

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So it's good to go now, it's shifting better? If the shifts change again I'd replace it, They don't slip for nothing, they are a bit of a PITA to replace though.

Yes, the electrical bit on the passenger side of the IP is your TPS. You can tune your converter lock up point buy loosing and rotating slightly and road testing, repeat till your happy.
Interesting....... The converter in my truck locks when it goes into 4th, after a second or two. I would really like it to not lock until 55ish. So the adjustment is in the TPS, which way to you twist that sucker to delay the lockup?
 

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good thing you caught that when you did. I've been told a poorly adjusted tv cable can kill a tranny in under 100 miles. if it does it again swap that out fast! $30 part vs tranny rebuild.

would a dash mounted TC lockup switch override the normal hydraulic lockup? i was told by a shop that with the 700r4's you either have hydraulic or manual TC lockup but cant have both. that sound right or did i misunderstand the gentleman?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Damn, well I definitely put more than 100 miles on it, but I don't need another rebuild either. It was done about 6000 ago.
 

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Yes, you can f around with the lock up but I should have asked if you have an ECM or not, the reason why is the ECM won't allow lock up until 4th unless you get creative.

I've got an ECM run truck and installed a manual lock up and a cut out switch. I can lock the converter only after the 1 - 2 shift with a normally open self returning push button switch, lock up, and a safety covered lock out switch so I can delay lock, lock out, up until I have gotten to what ever speed I want to lock it or just let the ECM do it.

It's not very complicated, you need a switched 12V source, ignition, and a ground and 2 wires to the trans harness. Don't ask me the colors right now but can find em out if ya want to do this.

The only thing you have to remember is these converters aren't all that great and you have to have a foot to brain connection if you lock early, nothing past a 1/4 into the IP, cause you will smoke the lock up.

Locking late is good if you get on the IP hard to get into traffic in a hurry but running constantly out of lock up makes LOTS of heat so use it sparingly over 35 mph and run a big cooler in front of the rad and a temp gauge.

Happypunch, a 700 either has hydraulic or electric lock up, you can f with either but a switch won't work on a hydraulic set up, you have to drop the pan and mess around with the adjustments on the valve body.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
This might help.

 

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Happypunch, a 700 either has hydraulic or electric lock up, you can f with either but a switch won't work on a hydraulic set up, you have to drop the pan and mess around with the adjustments on the valve body.
good to know, thanks!
 
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