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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I already read the faq on buying a 6.5td but I have a few more questions. First I was once told that when a diesel hits 120k lots of things start to go wrong and break. I have never personaly owned a diesel but have drove them alot and my cousin has a duromax. I found a 1500 97 with a 6.5 td with 121k miles. It's a really nice truck and I am thinking about trading my 03 ranger in for it as I need 4x4 and a bigger bed and some more cab room. What do yall think? Iv heard diesels run along longer than gassers and i would never buy anthing in gas over 100k miles. I'm not afraid to get dirty and work on them and keep it mainteneceed very well but afraid of having it crack engine after a year or something. What do yall think? How long will this thing run? How much for rebuilding the engine??? When I get it I would be willling to put 1000 in it tops for upgrades for cooling and replacing parts that are prone to break. Anyways need some advice i guess! :help:
 

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These engines should last 200K "+". Get as much repair history as you can. This is a very good site for trouble shooting questions. Some people might give this engine a bad name, they can have issues but nothing which can't be fixed here.
 

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As per my sig, Mine has 450,000KMs on the clock, I never put them there, I bought it like that, and it burns NO oil, yep that right and starts at -25C not plugged in. all engines have their issues, but all diesels last a long time compared to a gas engine
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
what would be a fair price?

1997 1500 6.5td 4x4 leather power everything extended cab good condition 121k miles
 

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I know what you mean, as I bought my '99 Suburban with the 6.5TD last July with 141k on the clock. I was a little nervous about buying such a high mileage vehicle, but I knew diesels last a lot longer than gassers on average, and I knew Suburbans also last a long time. So although 141k is a lot of mileage for an average car, its not a lot for a diesel Suburban. It's comforting to see all the posts of folks here with 250k, 300k, 350k plus on their 6.5's.

I've had quite a few things break or wear out in the first few months of owning my truck, but I kind of expected it, as with 141k on the clock, you can't expect new car reliability. However, with the exception of dead batteries requiring a jump start once, the truck has never left me stranded. Here's a list of things that I've had to repair or replace on the engine since I got the truck in July:

-PMD (failed, causing stalling)
-Lift pump (failed, causing stalling)
-Glow plugs (half were original and INOP, causing difficult cold starts)
-Fuel filter (wasn't sure if it was OK, so replaced it as a precaution)
-Fuel cap (wasn't sure if it was OK, so replaced it as a precaution)
-Exhaust crossover pipe (rusted out and leaking, major PITA to get out)
-New batteries (1 was original and completely dead, and the other one died later)

I'm proud to say I've done all these repairs myself, with great help from this site. And I've never worked on a diesel before. My truck has been running great for the past few months, and I'm real happy with it. Plus there is a certain satisfaction you get when you fix it yourself. Not to mention I saved a fortune doing this work myself. A stealership would have charged me $3k easily, and probably wouldn't have fixed things correctly.

Although it is running great now, it doesn't mean I'm done with all the repairs yet. On the to do list are:

- Replace oil cooler lines which are leaking
- Upgrade exhaust system (looking for better fuel efficiency, power, and sound)
- When it hits 150k, change all fluids in the entire truck as preventative maintenance. I may also change all the coolant hoses then too - not sure yet.
- At some point soon, may need new injectors. They are original and I'm unsure of their life expectancy.

This is just stuff that I know are coming up. Of course I am expecting additional things to break that I'll have to deal with as they happen.

But so far so good. Truck doesn't burn any oil, runs great, and pulls strong. Aside from any unforseen cracking issues or other catastrophic failure that could happen to any high mileage enegine, I could see this engine lasting 300k. I'll just do my best to maintain it well and not abuse it, and see how it goes.
 

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sent pm did ya read it yet ????
 

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<<First I was once told that when a diesel hits 120k lots of things start to go wrong and break>>

I think that's cute. Was he six years old?

Yes, he's absolutely right. Over the road tractors (semis) usually have an overhaul on the engine once per year to prevent problems, too. Most farm tractors are only good for one season, also and then they need an engine overhaul to be ready for the next year.:rolleyes:
 

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And a 6.5 is weak especially one in a K1500 you'll never be able to tow with that thing :rolleyes:

$1000 K tops for upgrades, hmmn says that now just give him a taste of the power potential to be tapped, me thinks he will need a bigger budget
 

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<<First I was once told that when a diesel hits 120k lots of things start to go wrong and break>>

I think that's cute. Was he six years old?

Yes, he's absolutely right. Over the road tractors (semis) usually have an overhaul on the engine once per year to prevent problems, too. Most farm tractors are only good for one season, also and then they need an engine overhaul to be ready for the next year.:rolleyes:
What????:confused:
 

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Guy making the recommendation, sarcasim to their level of experience, similar to that of a 6 yr old.

EJK take a minute to update your signature line for us follow the welcome note link in my signature
 

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$1000 K tops for upgrades, hmmn says that now just give him a taste of the power potential to be tapped, me thinks he will need a bigger budget
Until the power bug bites back, then that budget dissapears into repairs instead of upgrades:eek::.
 

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That is the key Balance of Power ;) knowing when too much is enuff
 

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I bought mine new and it has 141,000 miles. It is a 95 c1500 regular cab long bed 2wd.

Here is what I have done to mine since I have had it excluding tires, oil changes and filters.

Mileage is apr.

Batteries 40,000(weak), 90,000(one bad)

Belt 60,000(cracks), 105,000(split)

Lift pump ($50 / $60 + 5 minute job) 80,000(bad and making noise at around 60,000), 140,000(was still working but making noise)

Brakes(inspected, cleaned rear drums) 120,000

Alternator 60,000(not charging), 100,000(rear bearing burned out on rebuilt, replaced with new one)

Starter 90,000(sticking solenoid at -10F), 140,000(dead spot in rebuilt starter since it was put on, replaced with new one)

Replaced battery Cables(corrosion) 125,000

Pressure switch on the air conditioner thing(compressor was not coming on, cheap fix) 130,000

Vacuum line harness(from vacuum pump to solenoid bank and wastgate control, very brittle. Broke while changing solenoids) 140,000

Wastegate and EGR solenoids(I am pretty sure the old ones are still good except for the wastegate solenoid which I think was bad, boost was not working right) 140,000

CDR (not sure what can go wrong with a tuna can with a hole in it but someone said change it for regular maintenance) 140,000

Remote PMD/FSD heat sync and new FSD(old one is still mounted on pump and works good) 140,000

4" exhaust(old exhaust in great condition) 140,000

Free flow air filter system 140,000

Boost gauge, EGT gauge, Trans temp gauge 140,000

Currently the oil cooler lines are leaking and need to be replaced.

No power to window switch for passenger window. Not sure where the problem is.


Runs great, no oil burning. Started getting some ECM codes coming up lately pertaining to IP(17, 18, 35), not sure what it is yet but I think worse case would be to change the IP.

Transmission is a 4L80E, a very good transmission no problems with it. On a couple of occasions the transmission would not get past second gear until the ignition was turned off to reset something. This is the computer doing this and I believe it's caused by taking off too quick(no warmup) when cold or possibly something to do with the ignition system. It is a fail safe system that is false triggered in some way. Like I said I have only seen it twice in ten years or 141,000 miles.

Very hard running at max rpm can also cause a fail safe system to be triggered in the transmission caused by what I believe is an overspeed sensor of some sort. The result is the transmission pressure going into full lockup mode. You would notice very hard shifts as if you had a shift kit installed. This also resets when the ignition is switched off. I saw it once while towing my heavy boat in third at 3400 rpm(full throttle). I saw it once empty running at full throttle in third. I think it was due to the rpm limit being exceeded by forward momentum of the vehicle which triggered a failsafe that is intended for a slipping transmission condition.


Injectors may be due for changing according to what I have been reading although I would not be able to tell otherwise as I have not seen any signs of bad injectors. Maybe upgrade to marine injectors soon for more power.
 

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Have no fear!

I bought my '97 K2500 Sub at 76k miles, it is a few hundred from 140k now. It has been good to me for the most part. Starting at around 110k or so, I had to replace the vacuum pump, alternator, oil cooler lines, injector pump (under warranty, at which time I replaced the fuel tank, lift pump and pickup sock, and added a remote mounted FSD.) I replaced the AC condenser, compressor and lines this summer, as well as the crossover and down pipes, the glow plugs and rear driveshaft universal joints. I put on an open element intake recently, and I have the supplies for a 3 1/2" straight pipe exhaust due in any day now. Other than that, just tires, brakes, serpentine belt, filters and fluid changes, and the occasional light bulb. Oh, and I replaced the 7-pin trailer connector too. When the repairs seemed overwhelming I considered looking for a newer truck, but now that it is all fixed I am extremely pleased with it. I never could have replaced it with something comparable for what I have into it.
 

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I've got 350,000 km on mine. 2nd injection pump, 3rd PMD/FSD, the 4th set of lines to the oil cooler. I have finally found a set of rotors that don't frikin warp. They are power slot rotors with superhawk pads.
No transmission problems yet touch wood. Oh, the positive battery post on the passenger side battery corrodes quickly and can be the cause of some head scratching. The truck is easy on tires. I 've got 160,000 km on a set of michelin X's before. Each tank of fuel gets 4oz of 2stroke oil and a dash of a diesel additive.
I'm going to start saving for a new used truck. In 2 years when my son turns 16 and i'll give this beast to him. I'm sure i'll be on the site looking for a new engine shortly after that.
 
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