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Discussion Starter #1
Hi new to site hello everyone ! My98 6.5L just began using coolant,nothing in oil but,lots white smoke in exhaust,I'm guessing head issues ? I started to take apart got pass side off today looks good so I'll pull drivers head tomorrow!
 

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Super Moderator A Country Boy Can Survive...
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welcome to the 'Place. before anything is said read here about the coolant system Coolant Reference Thread

once you read through that it will teach you of the cooling systems shortcoming in the early models of these trucks. But to answer your question yes coolant being burned is bad. could be a cracked head cracked block or bad headgaskets. Anyway you slice it your truck has been overheated so i would go over everything with a fine toothed comb. if that block is cracked then its probably no good. if the heads are cracked into the coolant passages its time to buy new heads. when removing the heads replace the gaskets of course. good luck and hope everything turns out ok.

- Dave
 

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Hi new to site hello everyone ! My98 6.5L just began using coolant,nothing in oil but,lots white smoke in exhaust,I'm guessing head issues ? I started to take apart got pass side off today looks good so I'll pull drivers head tomorrow!
A few more questions on my part to figure this out. First put your truck info in your Signature Line so we know exactly what we are dealing with.

Second. Does the truck some white when the engine is up to temperature?

Third. How much coolant are you using?

Fourth. Have your oil analyzed because that will tell you if there is anything in your oil better than any other way of checking. If the oil is even a little milky then thats very bad. :eek:
 

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Quick fire way to check if it's head issue is cold start, your radiator hose getting hard from combustion pressure entering the coolant system.
 

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You should see milky oil gunk under valve covers, in the cdr and hose from the cdr to the turbo if the water is getting into the oil. I just put mine back together, was lossing coolant but no other symptoms. I could see some water droplets on the dipstick though. I would pull the pan and inspect for cracks in the block also. I never found an obvious leak in my head gaskets though...I think I found it before it got to bad.

Good Luck and Welcome !
 

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I have to disagree with Knreb, mine was leaking into oil only. No overheating issues ever.
 

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when mine went it took the tank off the radiator 20.00 gasket turned into 400.00 radiator. i have the best luck. so i thought, come to find out it was both heads. now its a 1200.00 fix and im the laborer. ye ha.

if it was still to gather you can take off th goose neck. fill with water and run with out belt and you will see wich side the air bubble are from.

-sam
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No press. trbls in system,white smoke pretty much all the time, it was using about gal/150-200 miles,no white **** under valve cover or on stick that's why I'm confused as to where it's going,yet signs of coolant in breather hose to turbo!
 

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I have to disagree with Knreb, mine was leaking into oil only. No overheating issues ever.
Sorry but me too. :(
The first time my heads went, I got major pressure into the coolant. The second time, which was a crack above a valve, I got coolant in my oil only. On the 2000 we just got, which was a cracked block in the bottom of cyl's 5 & 7, we had coolant in oil only. If these cracks were at the top of the cyl's, there should've been pressure in coolant.
Anytime I work on one, the first thing I do after removin' valve covers, is pressure test it. If you can remove valve covers and oil pan then pressure test, even better!
 

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Hi new to site hello everyone ! My98 6.5L just began using coolant,nothing in oil but,lots white smoke in exhaust,I'm guessing head issues ? I started to take apart got pass side off today looks good so I'll pull drivers head tomorrow!
I would definetly have those heads checked. Prob cracked into the exhaust and burnin' it off. Did the exhaust smell like coolant?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
heads

any other signs to look for ? 1 cyl looked cleaner than rest but, no real sighns of gasket washed or anything,can I check myself or shop only and what is cost roughly ?:eek:
 

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Okay.... I appologize... I must be getting my facts messed up my facts somewhere... what did I remember wrong here? Enlighten me here, if I messed up, I did, but help me to understand. I learn something new from you guys here all the time.
 

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after cleaning the heads look for cracks around the valves that extend into the valve seat area. small cracks between the valves are ok. The only visual thing I found on mine was one crack extending into the valve seat. I have a good picture...not sure how to attach here. Mine was using water only....not getting hot. The more common problem is the typical "blown" head gasket causing combustion gases to enter the coolant, but not always I guess.
This was my experience, fixed with used heads 3k miles ago and counting.

Steve
 

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All correct - the engine has eight separate pressure areas:

- no pressure to medium pressure with Boost, in the intake system thru the ports up to the valves = 0-30psi
Here you will get coolant in the combustion process at idle or low Boost condition, and coolant loss out the overflow at high-Boost events over 18psi - oil in coolant if CDR system is functional

- no pressure, in the crankcase, lifter valley, valve covers, timing cover, lower cylinder walls, any area associated with the crankcase and engine oil returning to the sump = 0psi
Here, you will get 18psi coolant into no pressure area of sump oil

- low pressure, in the water jacket in the engine block and heads, any area associated with the radiator and coolant pump = 18psi max
Here you will get medium 60psi pressure oil in the coolant, very oily
Here, you will get high 450psi compression pressure in the coolant, slightly oily
Here, you will get 3000psi combustion pressure in the coolant, with combustion detritus, with hard radiator hose at startup

- low to medium pressure, in the exhaust ports - ~5-40psi with a turbocharger
Here you will get raw coolant in the exhaust at low exhaust gas temperature at idle and low rpm, with nauseating acrid odor, possible drips from the tailpipe with straight-thru exhaust at low exhaust temperature - can also result in combustion by-products in coolant

- medium pressure in the oil galleries from the oil pump, incl the lifters and pushrods which deliver oil to the valve-train, and to the top side of the turbo = ~60psi
Here you will get medium-pressure oil in the low-pressure water jacket, with very oily coolant

- high pressure, in the upper cylinder walls = ~450psi
Here you will get slightly oily coolant and coolant in the combustion process, as the cylinder walls are also no pressure on the intake stroke at idle, and until Boost exceeds coolant system pressure.

- very high pressure, in the combustion chambers in upper cylinder and heads = 3000psi and hot
Here you will get combustion by-products, slightly oily-sooty-with-carbon-flakes-scum, in the coolant, and hard radiator hoses at startup
This is also usually accompanied by over-heating and moderate to severe coolant loss thru the coolant reservoir overflow drain - good indicator is the inside surface of the reservoir will be nasty from the combustion scum

Those scenarios can result from simple gasket failure to metal fatigue, as in cracks in the cylinder block and heads.

There is one other comparatively no-pressure* area: outside the engine, where you will get various leaks from all the engine systems, no-pressure to hi-pressure - major source of coolant loss is dripping waterpump, loose water hose clamps, severely oxidized heater hose connector on coolant crossover\t-stat housing, radiator, heater core, etc, all associated with no overheating unless low-coolant alarm is ignored\disabled\broke - they can all lose coolant even when engine is stone cold dead, due to gravity
These failures can also result from simple gasket\seal failure to metal fatigue, as in cracks

So, diagnosing the relatively simple engine coolant system can be very complex, or comparatively easy, if you learn to recognize the signs.

*Remember: outside the engine block is Barometric pressure, so it is not a no-pressure area, or you wouldn't be reading this...............
 
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