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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
I figured id create a primer here telling you how to swap out your injection pump including photos on relavant steps along the way. Because yes, everyone likes pictures.



First off you are going to have to remove the upper plenum and the intake manifold. You will want to seperate these pieces. If you are careful the gaskets will remain in tact, if not they are less than 5 bucks for the upper plenum, and less than 15 for the intake manifold, You arent going to blow your budjet on gaskets here.

The bolts for the upper plenum are 10mm, there are 6 of them. The Bolts for the Intake manifold are all 15mm YOU WILL NEED A DEEP SOCKET! As a precaution as you remove the bolts, place them in a zip lock bag so they do not disapear, I promise it will be no fun trying to find them if you do. As well when removing the intake manifold, be very cautious of dirt and debris that may have built up around the intake manifold, this FOD can be loosened as you remove the intake manifold and fall down into the ports on your head that if not retrieved will cause damage to your engine.

Once you have the intake manifold removed, if avalible take a shop vaccum and suck up all of the garbage around the ports, then stuff rags in them to keep anything from falling down them by accident. You do not wan to pull your head because a washer fell down the port!

Next it will be time to remove the hard lines running from the pump to the injectors. Before you break anything loose though you need to find and label the #1 injector line on your pump, and label each line as it comes out! Failure to do so will cause serious serious headaches later, and possibly hours of trying to make everything fit. Also be very careful not to bend the hard lines are you remove them, if you do, it will be very very difficult to reinstall them if not impossible.

All of the injector lines take a 3/4" wrench, I find that it is easier to use a standard open end as opposed to a proper tubing wrench that is less flexible.



Having both a drop light and a flash light will come in very handy when working on the hard lines at the injector on the turbo side, You will have to losten them from the top side of the engine as the turbo and exhaust pipe and manifold block all other avanues, if you have thick hands as I do, it may be advantageous to remove the heat shroud on the turbo, doing so will give you about another inch of room to work.

Be very careful when working on these lines at the injector not to damage the rubber return lines running from each. They are very difficult to replace if you do, you may find yourself having to pull the turbo.

Once you have the lines removed it is time to move on to removing the pump its self. First you will need to remove the Oil Filler neck from the front of the gear drive cover. The two bolts holding it in place take a 13mm socket, and the neck will then pop out with a little tugging and twisting.

NOTE: I find that the best approach here is to remove the upper fan shroud, fan, and the serpentine belt giving you plenty of room to work.

Once you have the oil filler neck out, you will need to use a 1/2" drive with a 18mm socket to turn the crank rotating the engine bringing each of the 3 bolts that go through the gear into the drive hub on the injection pump.

Be very careful when removing these bolts, if you drop one down inside the gear drive/timing cover, you will wind up having to pull the cover, or worse pulling your oil pan.

The best meathod is as I have pictured here, you remove the bolt but you keep a fair ammount of pressure on it keeping it in the hole through the gear, you then slip your finger in the hole and use it to hold the bolt into the socket as you pull it out. Installation is done in the same manner.

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Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content


Once you have these bolts out, it will be time to remove the pump its self, before you do you will need to refereince the timing of the pump. The best spot I have found to do so is on the ridge along the top side of the pump mounting flange as pictured below, you can see the mark I made referenced by the orange arrow.



Once you have made this mark, start with the two lower bolts, This way you arent trying to hold the pump up while you remove these hard to reach bolts as it gets rather heavy. All 3 will require a 15mm wrench.

Once the pump is removed do not spin the drive hub at all!!!

You will want to set the old pump next to the new pump and turn the drive hub on the new pump so as that the dowel pin is in the same position as on the old pump, this will greatly aid instalation.



Also I take this opportunity to remove the factory mounted PMD and mark the number 1 port on the new pump with a zip tie.


When reinstalling the pump, put the top bolt in the pump mounting flange first, this will make the bottom two that are very difficult to reach much much easier. As well, be sure to lign the reference mark you scribed in the gear drive housing with the corner of the mounting flange on the pump.

Before you worry about hard lines, you want to put the bolts back in the pump drive gear, once again using the finger meathod to insert them, and using the 1/2" drive 18mm to roll the engine over. Failure to install these bolts properly, or at all for that matter can lead to a catostophic failure.

Next comes the hard lines. I find the best meathod is to start at #3 and work your way backwards, This way you put the lines on the bottom of the pump first, Make sure before you tigten one end of a hard line down that you have the other started, or getting them all back on may become impossible.

for reference, here is how the pump is laid out.



Once the hard lines are back in place and you are sure they are all properly tigtened, Make sure you remembered to hook up your electrical connections and the fuel line coming from the filter housing to the IP, then set the intake manifold back in place and put the bolts back in thier holes just barely finger tight, then start in the middle going side to side working your way out as you tighten them gradually so as that the ends of the manifold do not pigeon toe leaving a gap in the center.

Once you have done so, reinstall your upper manifold, serpentine belt, fan and shround and the truck should be ready to run.
 

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Diesel Specialist, Gone, but not forgotten
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Nice job and great info
 

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^+1, maybe good for our FAQ?
 

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Timing

Is there any need to bring it to a shop to get it electronically timed?
 

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great info !!! thanks

POST IT ?
 

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She Don't Smoke!
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Great writeup, I will add this to the FAQs.

Is there any need to bring it to a shop to get it electronically timed?
As long as you mark where the old pump was and put the new pump in the same spot you should be fine. It is still common practice to use a TechII or equivalent and set TDCO to spec or to where you want it.
 

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If you're afraid the bolts in the oil filler hole should fall of the socket, loosen the bolts, fill the socket with grease and put it back on the bolt. The bolt will then stay in the socket with no or minimal risk to fall into the "deep" of your engines. Do it the same way when putting the bolts back, this operation is even more nerve wrecking than taking them off.
 

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I just replaced my IP and found that a telescopic magnet is really handy to have on hand. I used it on any bolts/nuts I was afraid I would drop. When you remove the oil filler neck I would also remove the rubber gasket which gave more room to work on the bolts that needed to be removed. I started those bolts by attaching them to the magnet then screwing them in.

Mike
 

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Make sure the PMD wire is not intangled in the lines or you will need a wire stretcher to hook it to the wire harness. :)
 

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Big big thank you. i just took mine off tonight and the pictures and directions helped very much. sure glad i didnt have to take the water pump off.. thanks again..
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Big big thank you. i just took mine off tonight and the pictures and directions helped very much. sure glad i didnt have to take the water pump off.. thanks again..
You are welcome, I am glad it helped you out. And you are right, pulling the water pump would have made it a real hassle.
 

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Awesome post, great pictures.
 

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Great post, getting ready to dive into this tomorrow. Are there any torque specs for the bolts on the manifold and pump. Thanks again, this will help a lot.
 

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31 ft lbs on the lower manifold. Haven't done the pump so couldn't say.
 

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thanks for the info, about your turbo master, where did you get it and did it come already set to a specific setting or did you have to set it. want to add one but don't have gauges yet and just spent a bunch on pmd and injection pump. would like to get rid of vacuum pump and change belt ASAFP.
 

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If you're afraid the bolts in the oil filler hole should fall of the socket...

...this operation is even more nerve wrecking than taking them off.
I laid an old t-shirt sideways across the front of the engine and gently tucked the shirt sleeve into the filler hole around both sides of the flange to fill the gaps.

When installing the bolts, I took a deepwell socket (not shallow, so I didn't have to worry about the shallow socket dropping off the extension inside), then wrapped 2 pieces of 3" long black plastic electrical tape across the top of the socket, then pushed the head of the bolt into the socket. Testing the "grip" of how tight the bolt head fit into the socket with my fingers first, I then had absolutely no trouble putting the bolts in. The electrical tape will stay on the socket because the sticky side is wrapped down the outside of the socket. The t-shirt is your insurance policy. Make sure to wipe the bolts clean of any oil/grit before re-installing.
 

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6,5 grease conversion

Thanks for the pictures.

I am interested in converting a 1966 Chevy 2500 to run on WVO , grease,. As I see your picture there is a line from the filter to pump on the left side of the picture. just from the picture it looks like this is the supply side line to the pump. If so I would think that this would be a place to cut into the line and take the fuel to rotary switch which would then send either fuel or WVO to the pump. Have you done this or know why it would not be a good place to do this? If anyone has converted a 6.5 I would like your oppinion on this, or any problems that I might encounter.
Thanks Erling
 

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Thanks for the pictures.

I am interested in converting a 1966 Chevy 2500 to run on WVO , grease,. As I see your picture there is a line from the filter to pump on the left side of the picture. just from the picture it looks like this is the supply side line to the pump. If so I would think that this would be a place to cut into the line and take the fuel to rotary switch which would then send either fuel or WVO to the pump. Have you done this or know why it would not be a good place to do this? If anyone has converted a 6.5 I would like your oppinion on this, or any problems that I might encounter.
Thanks Erling
While it would lengthen your purge time, I'd think you would want to run the wvo through the stock filter? I haven't really gotten this far in my design, but if youre running a separate wvo filter, then yes, this would be the spot to splice in your valve.
 
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