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Discussion Starter #1
Alright I'm at a loss here. I've had this truck since I was a freshmen in highschool 6 years ago. I've already went through the pmd relocation. Now here's what I've ran into, I was working on my girls lancer jumping it off because it had a low battery along with other issues and the truck just died like you turned the key. Then it started only after cycling the key. Well I got it loaded and trailerd back to my shop where I have a 95 6.5 to use to swap parts with. Now I have a known to be good pmd and ops on the truck with a new resistor. Also the lift pump.is good along with the fuel filter that only has 6k on it and it is a wix sang with a new fuel pump relay. Both batteries are hot and we changed one ground cable due to internal corrosion and changed all other ends. The truck will roll over very quickly then fire up run fine then between 15-2 minutes its gonna die if you let the computer let it idle. If you keep constant Pendle tension and hold the motor at rpm it won't die. But if you feather it the moment you let of it will die and not come back even if its moving down the road. I've put my spare fuel shut of on with the same result. I am lost for words with this thing.

96 6.5td 5spd pmd relocated 316kmiles
 

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If its not giving codes you have to be thinking basics out of the computers control like a fuel issue. Bad fuel? Air in fuel?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Its coding but Its always coded. I don't have a code reader for a 96+
The fuel is good. And no air in the fuel. Its like you literally turn the key off and all the power is turned off to the motor and it dies. It doesn't lug pop or chug it just dies. Its exactly like you just turned tg3 key off
 

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Auto Parts Stores will Loan out a code reader for a fee. Go find one and get us the exact codes. That will help.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well this presents a problem. we went out to see if the shut off solinoid was loosing fire but it wasnt even when it dies its still at a solid 12.47volts. but thats not the issue, the issue is that the check engine light went off. i no longer have any lights on my dash except for a low water light because the sensor in the tank is dirty..

im at a loss on this one. the lift pump is new the fuel filter is sealing and primed but it just refuses to stay alive without holding throttle to it.

if it was a carb on a atv or bike i would have no problem with this but this has me pulling out my hair.
 

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Ignition switches are known problems that are multi contact switches that tend to fail to power the ecm but keep power to other areas.
With there being power at the FSO it might be something else but consider the ignition switch.
 

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Ignition switch is not too bad to replace but for testing you can just plug the new one in and let it hang below the dash.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well fellas I tried changing the ignition switch but still no dice. Same issues.. I'm at a loss. Im tired of fighting this ds4 pump system. I'm beginning to think swapping to mechanical would just be cheaper in the long run and more reliable.
 

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Did you ever changed the batteries?
 

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See "Fuel Injection System Diagnosis" (starts on page 25 of DS handbook)

Unlike pro'posers who aint got time for any real troubleshooting, you might try following it to the "T"

To many things get neglected and often taken for granted..
Start with the fundamentals ie Fuel supply, might as well start at the source, the fuel tank!!

Order up all the necessary orings, a new fuel sender (plan on returning it but have one on hand if you discover the fuel sender is damaged, severely corroded and/or leaking following the TEST) AND fuel strainer (ACDelco TS1012) NOTE: New senders are pre-assembled with the wrong (gas) sock and must be replaced with correct diesel strainer above.
If the fuel lines and/or any rubber hoses look questionable, order replacements beforehand or have a plan B to address the lines/hoses.
4 hours should be enough time but plan on taking most of the day so you can take your time and be painstakingly thorough in all your inspections.
Repair and/or replace as necessary..

Its your money...


Good Luck
 

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How easy is the restart?

It sounds like what can happen if the return line gets pinched or the fuel cap wont vent properly. The housing pressures up and it kills the IP. Its usually a hard restart (till some pressure bleeds off).

The tank usually takes a while to pressure up and kill it, but a restricted return line can be very quick to a little while.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That's the things its not a hard start it just fires up normally. Some times it will fire back without cycling the key. Its not a lift pump or return or filler cap pressure problem. It runs the exact same no mater what I change adjust or swap it still runs the same.
 
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