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MRFIRESKULL

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I am still new to 6.5 engine with techincal issues. I know my way around it. But some complications and specifications, I don't. Now I have a question wether if the engine needs to be rebuilt OR not? There's oil oozing in the turbo between air box and inside intake manifold. One guy said it needs to be rebuilt whole engine. One guy said the turbo seal needs replacing? Right now it does need a new head gasket. I have whole head gasket set and arp head studs waiting to put in. I am in middle of the progress. If I should go ahead put on new head gaskets or find other 6.5 td.

Any feedbacks will be greatly appreicated! Thank you
 
Keep the AIR filter clean. Dirty air filters generate more intake vacuum (pre-turbo) and draw more oil vapors from the CDR.
Find an honest mechanic who has no vested interest.. Some oil accumulation in the intake track is NORMAL.

Aside from the oil seepage, hows it run?
Have you checked for DTC's

FWIW Crankcase Ventilation System
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
What is a DTC? The filter might be old. I have a banks power turbo with banks power airbox. Also it has upgraded fuel injection, 3" crossover / down pipe and 4" straight piped. Don't know if those are too much on my 6.5 TD. Currently it has 217xxx
 
Where are my manners... Welcome to Diesel Place (DP)..

DTC = Diagnostic Trouble Codes

But first things first.. Go to your "User CP" (link above Welcome, MRFIRESKULL) and fill in your signature. Include vehicle year, make, model, engine and type (See 8th digit of VIN), trans, any options, upgrades and/or modifications.. This informs everyone so were all not poking 'round in the dark persay..
Sounds like a nice truck, be sure to include info about the "upgraded" fuel injection...

Then tell us whats going on with your truck...


I dont do "hotrods" so I'll be of little help to you however theres alot of info in the stickies at the top of this forum so grab a cold beverage, pull up a chair and sit a spell.

Good Luck
 
From the options you have added, that sounds perfect. We need to know what year your truck is because if its a DS4 or electronic injection, you really need a remapped ECM to take advantage of the upgrades or if its a mechanical DB2, then it should have been turned up a bit.

Any gauges?

Oil is normal in the intake, most all OE diesels have it as the OE's reroute the crankcase vent back into the intake and it carry's some oil with it.

Check the turbo shaft for play, grab the center nut and move it up and down, a light force it should move a bit and have very little in and out play.
 
Welcome to Diesel Place.
My motor was recently rebuilt and I have oil in the intake from the CDR/Tuna Can, Thing-a-ma-bob on the passenger side valve cover that's piped to the intake pre-turbo. No more and no less than the motor I replaced with 200K + miles. No worries, it's normal.

ECM = engine control module which is the brain sitting inside the dash next to the glove box.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Thank you all for posts and I feel welcomed. I should have known what's DTC in the first place. Everything looks normal on my suburban.

Heavychevy95- Guy I brought it from, he said it had 75 HP marine injectors.. I looked that up and I only found 45 HP on ssdieselsupply... Don't know if few years ago they sold that high. There are some 75 hp injectors for cummins.

I own a 1996 2500 burban with 217k on it. Turbo shaft seems great. I know about the oil coming through intake but it looks more than normal. In turbo too. I have three gauges for pillar pod. Everything looks normal as it should be. About ECM, I would like to know some recommendations or referrals for someone who can remap properly without putting any harm to the motor.

The problem I have right now- it overheats once awhile. Right after when I replaced new radiator/ water pump/ thermostat and vaccum pump. I believed it needed a bleed. Sent it to shop so they can do vaccum through reservoir tank to get all of air out. They found some bubbles coming back in and out. Suspected a head gasket failure. Then I brought arp head studs and gaskets. During the R&R as I noticed there were too much oil in the turbo and intake manifold than supposed to be. Few of my friend thinks the engine needs to be rebuilt. One of them thought the turbo shaft needs replacing. I checked on CVS, everything seems to be intact. I haven't replaced the air filter though. I plan on doing that. Also there are no coolant in the oil. Surely I hope the heads aren't cracked. Some say it might be, very sentsive with overheating. The highest it went was between 3/4 and red bars on engine temp gauge. Might be bad news. I don't want to pay for other 6.5 swap but it might be cheaper then having it rebuilt. Any suggestions?

Sorry guys I was very busy for couple of days. And thanks again for sharing. I have been to some forums and they are always helpful.
 
Welcome!!!

As for cooling system, you need to put an original ACDelco thermostat.
Other brand will cause overheating and usually does not behave properly.

There is a bleed valve on top of the part where the upper rad hose attached to.

Also replace the CDR, that is the tuna can looking part hook up to the turbo.
Assuming it is still there since it may not have a standard turbo.
Otherwise, alternative ways to vent the oil should be fabricated.

The 75HP marine injector hopefully is a Bosch nozzle, if not, who knows what the impact is.
A lot of chinese made injector out there that is not really up to the standard.
 
Again, oil is normal.

No way to tell if it needs overhauling without a compression and leakdown test.

The heads do crack and can be fixed for a reasonable price if its between the valves-some say leave it, some say fix them.

No such thing as 75 hp injectors, this aint a Cummin's, Dmax, or PS. The IP controls the fuel, which by the way, looks like you could have stocker, an aftermarket one would help quite a bit.
 
head gasket failure shouldn't cause this, correct? as stated: replace CDR (use AC Delco - only). the oil seals (turbocharger bearing) may be leaking?
Actually, if the turbo seals go bad it usually only causes a lot of exhaust smoke, very rarely will there be any oil leaking into the compressor housing.
 
Actually for CDR (PCV at the store), there is no need for ACDelco brand.

It is not a sensor or sender like OPS or t-stat.

Plus, I have not seen too much ACDelco brand CDR except probably from stealership.
RockAuto does not even have it.
 
According to the stealership around here CDR's are VIN. specific, as there are 3 types, if you can find a good one in the after market I say do it, it's a $100 bucks plus wait time here at the stealers and it's still made in china, and the pt# on the tuna can apparently has no match in GM's system, go figure!?!
Possibly the turbo seals are done, been there, but also if it's not producing enough to close the CDR it will suck oil right through at higher RPM.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Yes but how do you explain about the bubbles returning to coolant reservoir tank? What could cause this?
 
Yes but how do you explain about the bubbles returning to coolant reservoir tank? What could cause this?
You may have more issues than meets the eye.

Is the radiator hose gets hard as soon as the engine start and stay hard after running?
 
head gasket failure shouldn't cause this, correct? as stated: replace CDR (use AC Delco - only). the oil seals (turbocharger bearing) may be leaking?
Shouldn't cause what?

If the turbo seals are shot, it will be leaking oil into the exhaust, not the intake side unless the turbo is completely blown.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
JMJnet: I will test this tomorrow or soon. If it doesn't come hard, what does it mean? Actually I have been thinking about to swap other 6.5 in it. Or sell the truck who knows

Turbovanman: if the turbo is shot, will turbo still work? It's still giving me good psi
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
As for thermostat ACDelco, I found three different kinds. 205 degree and two option 290 degree with 1st/ 2nd design. There are different brands that comes for 180 degree. ???? Recommendations? I am trying to solve the issues on my truck, trying to avoid deeper R&R with it and I will if I have to
 
The turbo can still work if worn unless its so worn out the wheels are damaged. Most turbo issues are wastegate related.

You want the stock temp thermostats, should be either 190 or 195 degs.
 
T-stat also depends on whether the truck have single or dual, that may be why they say 1st design or 2nd design.

96 is a transition year, some have single t-stat and some dual t-stat.

You need to check which one you have.
 
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