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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well yesterday I drove the old Chevy over to my parents place to put it in dads shop. Gonna let the snow melt off and dry up, then Im pulling the transfer case to find out why it sounds like a machine gun in four wheel drive. Need to check the fluid in the front and rear end's while im in there too.

My cab mounts are also rusted almost completely through. Going to get the old ones out of the way and build new ones so that I can get the cab level with the bed again. I didn't realize they were so bad until I got under it looking around. Im hoping that is the source of most of my vibration that I have in the cab at idle.

Ill try and keep you guys updated with some pictures when I get dug into it, hopefully in the next week or so. I need to get this thing ready to go for a while because I hope to be tearing the head off my dodge and doing the rear main seal at some point soon once the weather gets a little nicer...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah I'm not looking forward to it but honestly it shouldn't be terrible

I've done some research and apparently there are some nylon shift fork pads in the t-case that can wear out and cause my exact problem. If that is the issue I shouldn't be out much money, just time. I'm really hoping that's the problem. Either way, an entire rebuild kit is like $80 so hopefully I can get away with not spending too much.

As for the cab mounts, I have a lot of scrap steel, plasma torch, welder etc for resources so I should be good there :D
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Anyone know where is the best place to get individual parts or a rebuild kit for the transfer case in this thing?
 

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I found radiator mounts at the local ma and pa scrap Yard... Took the battery sawzall to a bare truck frame. Got the front ones for $20 and the rubbers with new bolts at Rock Auto for about the same. Nalley GMC site was helpful for showing which ones I needed. Might be worth your time to see if the scrapyard has a banged up frame you can hack on.
 

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Cumminsdriver, sorry to hear about your transfer case problems. If you put that rebuild kit in, if its not too much trouble, can you take some pics., and an explanation of the procedure. I haven't done a TC, and would be interested in the process. Probably would help a few others too.:thumb:
 

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Cumminsdriver, sorry to hear about your transfer case problems. If you put that rebuild kit in, if its not too much trouble, can you take some pics., and an explanation of the procedure. I haven't done a TC, and would be interested in the process. Probably would help a few others too.:thumb:
Someone posted either pictures or a link to a thread with pictures in Cumminsdriver's initial thread about the problem. I think.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well I finally got a chance to work on the old girl. Went over to my parents where my truck is parked in my dads shop at the moment and me and a buddy tore into it. Really didn't have any issues getting anything out. Both driveshafts came right out and once I jacked up the transmission some, I got the crossmember bushing out that the transmission bolts to which gave me good access to the T-Case nuts. Got it on the bench and pulled it apart until I got to the internals. The verdict is that the chain is totally shot. Very loose, and all of the nylon shift fork pads are worn down to nothing as well. Also, the aluminum range fork is worn down so ill have to replace it. All the bearings, shafts, etc.. still look pretty good. Im going to clean everything up, replace the chain, shift pads, and range fork, and stick it back together with new fluid. I think that will have me back in business and shouldn't cost a terrible amount. I still have no idea where Im getting parts from yet so if anyone has a good source for t-case parts, let me know.

Here's a short video. I thought the slop in the gear/shaft could be an issue but its actually normal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKVY5v-gHUI
 

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I buy parts from drivetrain.com. quality parts, and ship fast. They have tech support too if you have questions during assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well I finally got my parts. Ordered them from midwesttrans.com. They seemed to be the cheapest I could find and shipped out quickly. Cost me $144 for a new chain, new fork pads, and new range fork. Bearings, gears, and shafts all still looked fine so I didn't bother with anything else. Took my time and got the T-Case all back together Friday night except for the tailhousing. I didn't order a new snap ring for the main shaft and it was loose when I put it back on so I decided to buy a new one. All I have to do it slide it on and put the 4 bolts back into the tail housing with some RTV on it and then stick it back in the truck. I took quite a few pictures and haven't uploaded them onto the computer yet.

For anyone curious, these things are actually very simple inside. If you are fairly mechanically inclined and have some basic tools, its not a bad job at all.

Im kind of missing driving the old 6.5. May try to finish the T-case and slap it in Tuesday or Wednesday, then possibly fix the cab mounts this coming weekend and hopefully get back to driving it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Finally got the t-case together and back in the truck last night. Havent had a chance to drive it but I think itll be fine. The transfer cases are really straight forward for anyone thinking about digging into one. I may try to work on my cab mounts Saturday. Poor old truck is pretty rusty underneath unfortunately, but I have also seen much much worse on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
T-Case works perfect! :thumb::thumb:

Got a chance to get it out of the shop today. Took it out on the farm and got it stuck in 2wd purposefully. Stuck it in 4 hi and it climbed right out. Then went to a different spot and stuck it in 2wd. Shifted to 4 low and just stuck it on the floor because I wanted to make sure it wasn't going to have any issues under load. Spun all 4 tires like nobodys business and very smooth and quiet just like it should be :thumb: The road test was good too. Now on to the cab mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Wow, I feel honored to have a thread in the DIY section.

I didn't give much detail on the actual "rebuild" of the t-case so Ill go over a couple things.

Once you have the transfer case out, which is a pretty straight forward task, start disassembling from the rear of the t-case. Take off the tailhousing, then the large snap ring, then the next housing which is bolted to the rear of the main case comes off with a few bolts. I believe most of them were 15mm. Then there is another snap ring, the speedometer gear, and another snap ring to take off. Once all that is out of the way, you will need to remove the back half of the oil pump. Get a phillips screwdriver that fits well and take your time. The bolts in mine were pretty tight and I had to be careful not to strip them. Once the back half is off, go ahead and remove the oil pump innards from the shaft. The front half of the oil pump housing will still be in there. You should be able to slide the pickup tube out of the housing and then slide the front part of the oil pump housing out. If its giving you any trouble, just go ahead and un bolt the main cases and spit them, then remove it. There are leverage points on either side of the main case that allow you to pry the case halves to get it popped apart. The oil pickup is in the rear case half and slide in and out. There is a magnet in the bottom of the front case half you will want to clean. There is a spring that may fall off that goes on the shift fork shaft but its large enough you wont lose it. There is a snapring holding the "sprocket" that drives the front driveshaft yoke that needs to be removed. Once that is off, you can grab that sprocket and the mainshaft, and you should be able to pull both simultaneously to get the chain out. The only thing that may need to be done is to play with the shift forks some to get them out of the way.

Hopefully that is somewhat understandable. I think if anyone was standing there looking at the case it would start to make sense. Those instructions should get a person far enough into the case that they can figure the rest out from there. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
This is totally unrelated to what ive been working on, but since the truck has been at my parents house, the batteries have been totally flat twice. The second time I found them flat it had only been 3 days. I was a little stumped but I remembered an old trick for testing for a drain on the battery and figured I would give it a try. Wound up figuring out that I lost the load on the batteries when I pulled the horn fuse. Felt the horn relay and it was nice and warm:confuzeld The horn has never worked on this truck and its never bothered me. I don't know why it was drawing a load on the batteries, but I pulled the fuse and the relay so that will fix that problem :HiHi:
 
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