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They will fit. You will need to get a 30mm deep socket from some cheap tool sale and grind it down so it will fit between the injector and the head bolt.\

The older 6.2 head have a different injector angle and the body of the injector is shorter causing this problem.

Also because the body is shorter your lines will not want to line up perfectly but they will fit. I know this because this is what I did to my truck. My truck has a motor from an 83 and newer injectors.
 

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Around '84 the injector threads were changed from coarse thread to fine thread - 6.5 injectors are fine-thread, won't fit in the early heads.

6.5 injectors are higher 'pop' pressure than 6.2 injectors - the early 6.2 Inj Pump -housing and mechanicals - is not designed to provide those higher pressures.

Even the 6.5 IP soon began shredding itself to pieces - the higher pressure caused the steel cam-rollers to disintegrate, resulting in metal particles all thru the system, which then ruined the next pump when the system was not completely purged.

Big bucks, non-warranty, all at the customer's expense, IP and all.

Solution was ceramic rollers and other stuff, indicated by the "Green Tag' on the top of the pump, or the later blue Stanadyne label.

You can turn up your IP and advance the timing to compensate, but you're probably asking for quick IP failure if not a green tag blue label pump

Remember - metal particles don't travel from the tank thru your filter to the IP - metal particles travel from your failing IP to the fuel tank, then back to the filter, which then plugs up the filter.

FYI...................
 

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injectors

So what you are saying is the 6.5 injectors with a higher pop pressure are better than the 6.2 ones? I have seen ones on ebay with 6 holes made by bosch I think. Are they good ones to get? I was planning on replacing the injectors and glow plugs on my 88 6.2L before I install it in my truck. If I go for the 6.5 injectors do I need to get a green dot IP for a 6.5L also? Won't that be calibrated for too much fuel?
 

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Not necessarily - a good set of 6.2 injectors, new or rebuilt, is better than a worn-out set.

6.2 injectors and pump will supply more fuel than your engine can possibly use.

The spray-pattern from worn injectors can cause hard-starting, low power and poor economy, and burn holes in the pistons, so it's the new pintles and nozzles that do the most good, not higher pressure and greater flow.

If you're planning on a turbo, then plan on the 6.5 IP, injectors and "S" pre-cups for economy, "F" pre-cups for power

Stanadyne used the Powerstroke DB2 housing\head\rotor on the 6.5 to supply the higher-pressure injectors.

FYI - replacing the timing chainset at 100kmi can restore a bunch of lost power, and pulling the injectors to have them flow-checked would be a good idea at ~50-60kmi.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks

For all of the info and details- IP failure is not a failure I would like to have!!

thanks - -
 

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88 6.2l

OK, so, if I have a 6.2L that I will be installing later so far I gather I need new head gaskets, should use head studs, main studs, new timing chain set, new injectors, 60G glow plugs and possibly a new injection pump if I don't have the update stanadyne green dot blue label pump. Did I miss anything?
 

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Sounds good - you might want to add splayed mains from Kennedy, 19:1 pistons from Pen, have the crank balanced and tuf-trided, set of DSG timing gears - sky's the limit for 330-400 reliable hp.

FYI - Diesel Power Mag had a 6.2 hi-perf build-up article a good while back - it's on their website now, according to a reliable source
 
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