It could be a ground issue. There is a ground wire from the top of the tank to the frame rail on the driver's side. Or it could be the sending unit.Well actually while yall r on one last thing and ill leave yall alone my gas gauge jumps around alot while driving and braking and when u fill it yp it extremely exaggerates and goes way past full wouldnt that be the sending unit and i heard thats some difference in the sock that goes on the end of it which one is the right one been meaning to replace it
Alright and thank youIt could be a ground issue. There is a ground wire from the top of the tank to the frame rail on the driver's side. Or it could be the sending unit.
The tank sock that comes with all of the sending units are not the correct ones.
The correct tank sock you would need is AC/Delco TS 1020
It was the crank sensorI just fixed a similar problem on my '94 C2500 last Thursday. You most likely have the stock battery cables, and they are also likely to be internally corroded. Do yourself a favor and run to PT Solutions and get a set of 2/0 battery cables.
These changed my truck. Before, my truck cranked and cranked and cranked and then (usually) it finally caught, along with a plume of blue smoke. Whether it was cold or warm. Now, it cranks at about twice the speed, and starts after cranking for 1 to 2 seconds. In the last week, I can only think of one time it didn't start on the first try...and I had forgotten to wait for the glow plugs light to go off. My truck is now reliable, for the first time in years. I actually look forward to starting it, if you can believe that.
I'll post a before and after photo later, as well as pictures of my old cables, after I sliced them open. On the crossover positive cable I took off, I had corrosion the extended about 16 inches, effectively removing the driver side battery from contributing. All my gauges got steady, and the voltage doesn't drop when I turn on the lights.