Diesel Place banner

21 - 30 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
Glad you got the issue resolved.
Thanks for giving us an update!

(y)
Any input on a good gp relay lol i bought one from ss diesel and it lasted a month🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️
 

·
Registered
1995 GMC Suburban
Joined
·
17,825 Posts
ACDelco is the most reliable although they may have some DOA also.

I guess the same suggestion as the CPS.
Actually most all of the electronic type part like sensors, senders, controllers needs to be ACDelco.
 
  • Like
Reactions: OkDually

·
Administrator
Joined
·
16,280 Posts
^^X2 any electrical part needs to be AC/Delco or you'll get those gremlins
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Not gonna argue with that after all this lol thanks again yall
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
Well actually while yall r on one last thing and ill leave yall alone my gas gauge jumps around alot while driving and braking and when u fill it yp it extremely exaggerates and goes way past full wouldnt that be the sending unit and i heard thats some difference in the sock that goes on the end of it which one is the right one been meaning to replace it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,138 Posts
In a 1996 OBD2 truck. You should do the KOKO relearn procedure when the CPS is replaced. How to is in the 6.5 FAQ section. It is easy but you need a scanner to clear any codes before doing it. If any issues pop up that may fix it. If not able to do the manual relearn the PCM will automaticly relearn after 50 starts
I dont have the part # for the fuel sock but I am sure someone will chime in with it.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
16,280 Posts
Well actually while yall r on one last thing and ill leave yall alone my gas gauge jumps around alot while driving and braking and when u fill it yp it extremely exaggerates and goes way past full wouldnt that be the sending unit and i heard thats some difference in the sock that goes on the end of it which one is the right one been meaning to replace it
It could be a ground issue. There is a ground wire from the top of the tank to the frame rail on the driver's side. Or it could be the sending unit.
The tank sock that comes with all of the sending units are not the correct ones.
The correct tank sock you would need is AC/Delco TS 1020
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
It could be a ground issue. There is a ground wire from the top of the tank to the frame rail on the driver's side. Or it could be the sending unit.
The tank sock that comes with all of the sending units are not the correct ones.
The correct tank sock you would need is AC/Delco TS 1020
Alright and thank you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I just fixed a similar problem on my '94 C2500 last Thursday. You most likely have the stock battery cables, and they are also likely to be internally corroded. Do yourself a favor and run to PT Solutions and get a set of 2/0 battery cables.


These changed my truck. Before, my truck cranked and cranked and cranked and then (usually) it finally caught, along with a plume of blue smoke. Whether it was cold or warm. Now, it cranks at about twice the speed, and starts after cranking for 1 to 2 seconds. In the last week, I can only think of one time it didn't start on the first try...and I had forgotten to wait for the glow plugs light to go off. My truck is now reliable, for the first time in years. I actually look forward to starting it, if you can believe that.

I'll post a before and after photo later, as well as pictures of my old cables, after I sliced them open. On the crossover positive cable I took off, I had corrosion the extended about 16 inches, effectively removing the driver side battery from contributing. All my gauges got steady, and the voltage doesn't drop when I turn on the lights.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
I just fixed a similar problem on my '94 C2500 last Thursday. You most likely have the stock battery cables, and they are also likely to be internally corroded. Do yourself a favor and run to PT Solutions and get a set of 2/0 battery cables.


These changed my truck. Before, my truck cranked and cranked and cranked and then (usually) it finally caught, along with a plume of blue smoke. Whether it was cold or warm. Now, it cranks at about twice the speed, and starts after cranking for 1 to 2 seconds. In the last week, I can only think of one time it didn't start on the first try...and I had forgotten to wait for the glow plugs light to go off. My truck is now reliable, for the first time in years. I actually look forward to starting it, if you can believe that.

I'll post a before and after photo later, as well as pictures of my old cables, after I sliced them open. On the crossover positive cable I took off, I had corrosion the extended about 16 inches, effectively removing the driver side battery from contributing. All my gauges got steady, and the voltage doesn't drop when I turn on the lights.
It was the crank sensor
 
21 - 30 of 30 Posts
Top