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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1994 3500 6.5TD. No Fault codes
Replaced: fuel injectors / glow plugs and glow plug controller / fuel shutoff sensor / batteries and battery wires / cleaned ground terminals.
I tested lift pump and bleed the air from fuel filter. Both working.
I have loosened the T fitting from the front of the engine and fuel comes out.
The issue is barely any fuel to none is coming from the lines to the injectors.
I will replace the fuel filter tomorrow.
Do y’all think my injection pump is done or should I get an upgraded lift pump?
Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks
 

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1994 3500 6.5TD. No Fault codes
Replaced: fuel injectors / glow plugs and glow plug controller / fuel shutoff sensor / batteries and battery wires / cleaned ground terminals.
I tested lift pump and bleed the air from fuel filter. Both working.
I have loosened the T fitting from the front of the engine and fuel comes out.
The issue is barely any fuel to none is coming from the lines to the injectors.
I will replace the fuel filter tomorrow.
Do y’all think my injection pump is done or should I get an upgraded lift pump?
Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks
You will only see a dribble from the Injector lines. The Injection pump has to push fuel to the Injector and build up pressure for the Injector to Pop.
When you replaced the Injectors and then cracked open injector lines you introduced a lot of air into the fuel system, That air now has to be purged out of the system.

The best way to do this is to remove the glow plugs and crank the engine over for 10 seconds, then let the starter rest for 5 minutes (repeat till you see a fuel fog coming from the glow plug holes).
Once you see the fuel fog reinstall the glows and attempt to start
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You will only see a dribble from the Injector lines. The Injection pump has to push fuel to the Injector and build up pressure for the Injector to Pop.
When you replaced the Injectors and then cracked open injector lines you introduced a lot of air into the fuel system, That air now has to be purged out of the system.

The best way to do this is to remove the glow plugs and crank the engine over for 10 seconds, then let the starter rest for 5 minutes (repeat till you see a fuel fog coming from the glow plug holes).
Once you see the fuel fog reinstall the glows and attempt to start
Thanks will do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So I have the glow plugs out and hearing a hissing noise, like the wife ha. Will I see a lot of smoke or a little bit? I’ve started the truck about 4 times. Do I just reattach the glow plugs and try to start?
 

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So I have the glow plugs out and hearing a hissing noise, like the wife ha. Will I see a lot of smoke or a little bit? I’ve started the truck about 4 times. Do I just reattach the glow plugs and try to start?
The fuel fog will be a heavy mist and obvious when the air is all purged out from the lines. Once you see that, then reinstall the glows and attempt to start
 

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Thank you so probably awhile then
The air-in-fuel issues are the most difficult to deal with.
It can take a while to purge depending on the amount of air introduced into the system.
Make sure your batteries are fully charged and up to the task.

Crank your engine for 10 seconds and then let the starter rest for 5 minutes (repeat) till you see that fuel fog
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The air-in-fuel issues are the most difficult to deal with.
It can take a while to purge depending on the amount of air introduced into the system.
Make sure your batteries are fully charged and up to the task.

Crank your engine for 10 seconds and then let the starter rest for 5 minutes (repeat) till you see that fuel fog
Appreciate the help
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I got the truck started. So now the engine sounds like it has an upgraded cam. When I drive it, it will take forever to get to 35mph. I’m guessing there is still air in the lines.

Should I crack each injector line starting from cylinder 1 until fuel sprays out, with the truck running or from just the starter.
 

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I got the truck started. So now the engine sounds like it has an upgraded cam. When I drive it, it will take forever to get to 35mph. I’m guessing there is still air in the lines.

Should I crack each injector line starting from cylinder 1 until fuel sprays out, with the truck running or from just the starter.
Install a piece of clear fuel line on the return side of the Injection pump, as shown in this link: Question: - 1999 GMC Bluebird 6.5L TD - PMD &amp...
If you notice any bubbles within the line you have an air intrusion/leak you need to hunt down
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Install a piece of clear fuel line on the return side of the Injection pump, as shown in this link: Question: - 1999 GMC Bluebird 6.5L TD - PMD &amp...
If you notice any bubbles within the line you have an air intrusion/leak you need to hunt down
installed the clear tubing and could see bubbles. Pulled the intake and manifold off and can see fuel sitting on top of the block. So I’m going to be replacing the Injection pump and lines. Appreciate all the help.
 

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installed the clear tubing and could see bubbles. Pulled the intake and manifold off and can see fuel sitting on top of the block. So I’m going to be replacing the Injection pump and lines. Appreciate all the help.
Is that where the source of the leak is coming from?? The usual culprit is the Fuel Filter Manager..
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Is that where the source of the leak is coming from?? The usual culprit is the Fuel Filter Manager..
I don’t see any leaks from the Fuel Filter Manager. I do see some wetness from a couple of the fuel lines connected to the pump.
 

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I don’t see any leaks from the Fuel Filter Manager. I do see some wetness from a couple of the fuel lines connected to the pump.
Try snugging up the lines and see if things improve. Inspect everything up close for the source of the leak. Take your time and don't just needlessly throw parts at it.

The Filter manager has a couple of orings that will leak with age/heat.
There is a spot where the electrical wires on the filter housing that can leak also
 
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Be sure to inspect the 3 lines to/from the filter housing also.
1. feed line from the lift pump to the filter housing
2. feed line from the filter housing to the IP
3. water in fuel drain line ( runs from the filter housing, under the intake to the T-Valve then drains to the ground)
Rubber lines can degrade and leak..
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Is that where the source of the leak is coming from?? The usual culprit is the Fuel Filter Manager..
Be sure to inspect the 3 lines to/from the filter housing also.
1. feed line from the lift pump to the filter housing
2. feed line from the filter housing to the IP
3. water in fuel drain line ( runs from the filter housing, under the intake to the T-Valve then drains to the ground)
Rubber lines can degrade and leak..
I will clean it up and put it back together and start it to make sure where the leak is at. Appreciate the help so far.
 

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You can start it with the intake manifold off to watch for leaks. It will be LOUD since the egr passages in the head will be open. The intake manifold isn’t needed to run. Might save you some work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
You can start it with the intake manifold off to watch for leaks. It will be LOUD since the egr passages in the head will be open. The intake manifold isn’t needed to run. Might save you some work.
Awesome thanks for that. I also just got a PT Wiring solutions Lift Pump which I’ll be putting in tomorrow. Thanks again.
 

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Paleyjim is right. But, man, be careful. So, so easy to have something get sucked down those intake ports. Might be a good idea to cut some window screen and put over them.
 
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