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Discussion Starter #1
Is anyone running an aftermarket turbo and/or propane on a 6.5. If so, how does it compare to stock HP?


Thanks


Robert
 

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I had a propane system on my truck and it gave 33hp on the chassis dyno.
 

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Howie E. has a slick propane system that he uses the propane from his trailer tanks to supply the system. He has a Sub and has no room for a tank.
 

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i have fitted a Garrett to my truck, and it made a big difference, eventhough the turbine housing is so much bigger, it does not produce any more total boost pressure than my old G.M. 4 did.


what year do you have?
 

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Before you attempt to increase the turbo get the best out of the one you have. Install one of Bill Heath's Turbo Master, about $60.00. This will give you greater sustained boost levels when you want it. Second consider an intercooler. There is little sence trying to stuff more hot air into the engine. The old Pressure Volume Temperature law of physics still holds true.


As for propane I am satisfied with my results and the fact that it cost about $100.00. Take a look at my web page.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the info guys. I have a 1992 C2500 5 speed 4.10 axle. I upgraded from a gm3 to a gm8 and modified the wastegate controller for manual adjustment, but still had black smoke and low boost in the upper rpm. Sense my truck has a manual pump it will turn 3800+ rpm. I installed a larger non-wastegated turbo and it really helps in the mid to upper rpm. Now it will hold 15# boost at 3800 rpm. I am thinking about giving it a small shot a propane for low to mid range. Joey what kind of injection rate do you run? what was your max HP? Howie what pressure and orfice are you using? Also thinking about installing a phazer gear dive, how much will it help?


Thanks


Robert
 

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craneman


I do not know the size of the orfice. Look at my profile and look at my web page and you will see my regulator. This regulator has a small orfice and will show zero pressure when I engage the prpoane. This is a safty measure as you will hammer the wrist pin bushings if you over propane. I was not going fot the MAX just enough to cline the hills. If you what an adjustable system Rego Products makes a series of regulators the largest of which would flow more propane that you could use and thus you would have to install a neddle valve to control ping. My regulator is set at 6# static.
 

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Propane on a diesel is like drinking. Done in moderation and it's ok. Over do it, and pay the price. I've had mine on for a year now, and still doing well.
 

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craneman, I don't know the flow rate of the propane.
 

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So how exactly did you set it up? You just have the regulator then have a tube going into your intake? You run any jets or anything special your site had nice pics but not enough really. Any #'s on your regulators would help also.
 

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Craneman,,, are you interested in building your own propane kit? That's why your asking flow rate etc? I don't understand how well HowieE kit works, with his regulator way back on the rear bumper, or the tongue of the trailer, tough to tell from the pics. When he turns it on, he'd have to wait for the gas to flow all the way up front, and even worse, when he shuts it off, he'd have to wait a long time for it finish burning. HowieE, correct me if I'm wrong. I find it hard to see from the pics you have posted. And somebody mentioned something about a sub being in the way. I hope they don't think that storing the bottle in the passenger compartment is a good idea
. Anyways, Craneman, soon I'll get around to uploading all my pics from my camera to my pc, and I'll find a few that you may find helpful.
 

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With respect as to how my system works. The regulator and a selinoid are located on one of the tanks on my trailer. A quick disconnect on the bumper, that is self sealing when no hose is in place. A second selinoid is located up front about 3 ft. from the air filter. When hooked up both selinoids are controlled from a switch on the center consol right below my right hand. There may be a delay the first time I fire it bur it is not noticable. Once fired and the switch released both selinoids close and hold a charge in the line all the way to the engine compartment. The 2 selinoids and the quick disconnect are used for safty and to address the time delay problem. As for the regulator I just plain lucked out as to size. If I where to do it again I would use a regulator with a larger orfice and controll that flow with a neddle valve. I was not going for all out dyno power just a sustem that made the differance on the hills. Hills that used to drop my road speed from 65 down to 55 or loewer I can now accelerate on.
 

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I have been using a gear drive on my 94 for the last 90k and haven't had any problems. I also have the original harmonic balancer and inspect it for any problems every so often. The gear drive keeps the cam in proper time as well as the injection pump. My experience is that my truck runs as well now as it did when I first put on the new drive.
 

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howie,


What size lines and orifice is ther on your truck? So it is just tubed into your intake and there is no jets or anything like used on nitrous in it. It actually sound simple and cheap unless i'm missing something massive. How can you tell how much propane you are running?
 

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HowieE


Now I understand, couldn't picture it before, brain freeze I guess :). Mine the solenoid is right on the regulator. I'll be fine,,,, I took the the black baffle thingy off the intake and injected the propane there, you did the same?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the replies. I finished a peninusular turbo installation and have much better performance on the topend and no illeffects on the lowend. After everyone's reply on the propane I will try a homemade injection system, and if that works out OK I will install the gear drive. Thanks for all the info.


Robert
 
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