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I mentioned this build in my previous thread “The Neverending Quest for Diesely Goodness” and it was recommended to me to start a new thread.

I’ve had an old J code 6.2 motor from my 86 K20 Suburban sitting around for a few years since I moved to Vegas, the land of rust-free vehicles, and scrapped the truck. The motor is a 660 block that I swapped in shorty 6.5 injectors and a 4911 pump from a 93 6.5

Ultimately I want to move my 64 GMC fleetside out here and use the motor in that but maybe I’ll have some practice and fun with putting a 6.2 diesel where it doesn’t belong.

Every once in a while I run across an old Caddy or big fat Pontiac or Buick and I think “wouldn’t it be cool to have a low and slow 6.2 powered lead sled?” Couldn’t be that hard. Everybody and their brother puts 350 chevys in things like that so why not do a 6.2. All these ideas came to a head when I came across the mother of all old hot rods on Craigslist the other day. A 1949 Hudson. I fell in love with the body lines and the price was too good to not go have a look. Long story short I bought a 1949 Hudson! We all knew how this paragraph was going to end...

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Continued tearing down the motor tonight. Got the heads off and pulled the pan. I think I’m going to leave the short block alone, maybe look into 6.5 heads, timing gears to replace the chain (who sells that kit again?), and maybe a fluidamper. Apart from that I’ll be looking into fitting a turbo of some sort. THAT plan is TBD but those $180 eBay HX35s and some practice with the welder is sounding inviting.

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Now....what the hell happened in my #2 cylinder? Glow plug tip dropped off and bounced around for a bit? The head has no such damage so somebody changed the heads after that happened? I wish I checked the compression before I pulled the heads. This motor did run well when it was pulled. There’s still crosshatching on the cylinder walls. Highly unlikely I’ll be pulling that piston this time around.

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Following Really neat i haven't seen a Hudson 6.2/6.5 swap build yet... just don't go posting on "Their" groups they'll go Haywire... 90% Of those guys are all about Originality as i am myself. It's my Quest to find my Dream hudson a 56-57 only Nash built car 1 of 200 made in '56 with a/c their 308 flathead-6.

Anyway. That piston not sure, could be from the old cyl heads that the GP Tip fell onto? Hence why your "New" ones don't have any signs or wear or Dmg.

Ever thought of a Supercharger instead of a turbo? A M90 or a 6-71 would work fine. But not sure how the 6.2 would handle to boost. I've only ever seen them up to 10 psi and MAX at that... even a friend of mine who had a Custom 6.2/6.5 hybrid maxxing out at 325hp ($8,000 build) he was pushing 7-10 psi.

I forgot to mention for the Fluid Dampener i'd go with Leroy-Diesel practically the best out there! He should have upgraded Timing chain & gears too along with the Oil cooler lines. Getting a pair for my 1982 red block if the Stock originals off my low-mileage parts truck fail.

Anyway I think you have a Solid platform here. I have 1 (660 Red block) parts eng and a bunch of other items in 2 Tubs if you need anything.
 

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I support this 110%! Can't wait to see this come together. It'll make the perfect cruiser

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk
 
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Following Really neat i haven't seen a Hudson 6.2/6.5 swap build yet... just don't go posting on "Their" groups they'll go Haywire... 90% Of those guys are all about Originality as i am myself. It's my Quest to find my Dream hudson a 56-57 only Nash built car 1 of 200 made in '56 with a/c their 308 flathead-6.

Anyway. That piston not sure, could be from the old cyl heads that the GP Tip fell onto? Hence why your "New" ones don't have any signs or wear or Dmg.

Ever thought of a Supercharger instead of a turbo? A M90 or a 6-71 would work fine. But not sure how the 6.2 would handle to boost. I've only ever seen them up to 10 psi and MAX at that... even a friend of mine who had a Custom 6.2/6.5 hybrid maxxing out at 325hp ($8,000 build) he was pushing 7-10 psi.

I forgot to mention for the Fluid Dampener i'd go with Leroy-Diesel practically the best out there! He should have upgraded Timing chain & gears too along with the Oil cooler lines. Getting a pair for my 1982 red block if the Stock originals off my low-mileage parts truck fail.

Anyway I think you have a Solid platform here. I have 1 (660 Red block) parts eng and a bunch of other items in 2 Tubs if you need anything.
Thank you sir! Yeah I think the most likely story is a GP too fell out then someone did the heads as a result. What a life this engine has had! It was already a goodwrench replacement when it was in the suburban. Now maybe has new(ish) heads? Gonna drop the heads off at a machine shop today and get a once over. Deck it, check for cracks, and what else? Valve seats? Stem seals? What else do machine shops check in a head? I forget. Been so long.

I had not considered a supercharger but I also wasn’t aware there was a setup for a supercharger on a 6.2. Is it roots type?
 
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1994 K2500 Suburban 6.5 turbo.
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Very cool!
 

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Thank you sir! Yeah I think the most likely story is a GP too fell out then someone did the heads as a result. What a life this engine has had! It was already a goodwrench replacement when it was in the suburban. Now maybe has new(ish) heads? Gonna drop the heads off at a machine shop today and get a once over. Deck it, check for cracks, and what else? Valve seats? Stem seals? What else do machine shops check in a head? I forget. Been so long.

I had not considered a supercharger but I also wasn’t aware there was a setup for a supercharger on a 6.2. Is it roots type?
Yes a Roots Supercharger.
 

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DONT DECK THE HEADS!! I've learned this the hard way.... 6.2's almost never warp and when you deck them is can screw up the precup depth. Just get them tanked and run em unless the valves and seats are f'd. Decking the heads puts the valves even closer to the piston when they open too. I had an engine that was basically kissing valve to piston as it ran. Did that for 1000's of miles, but darn was it wild to see when I tore it down. Just not worth it at all. I kick myself for spending the money on decking mine... If they're flat and crack free, run em. Trust me.
 

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No? I told them to take as little as possible off. Should I call them and tell them to just do the valve service?
 

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Personally, yes I'd call them. I would not have the heads skimmed. When they get machined the precups can pull out a bit then when the precups get settled again they are below deck height which is out of spec. Precups are supposed to protrude just a little. To skim them properly the precups need to come out then the precups need machined. If you look in the books there really isn't a "minimum head thickness" given, which to me means they aren't supposed to be skimmed at all. Up to you, but I wouldn't, just valve job and run em. This is presuming they are not warped. I haven't had a warped 6.2 head yet either, so that helps a lot. It's not like the aluminum heads I've dealt with where they get decked each time they come off.
 
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Gotcha. I told them to take as little as possible obviously because there is no “chamber” to speak of like in a gas motor. Already was planning to run the .010 gaskets to help, even just a little, with lowering compression ratio.
 

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Following Really neat i haven't seen a Hudson 6.2/6.5 swap build yet... just don't go posting on "Their" groups they'll go Haywire... 90% Of those guys are all about Originality as i am myself. It's my Quest to find my Dream hudson a 56-57 only Nash built car 1 of 200 made in '56 with a/c their 308 flathead-6.

Anyway. That piston not sure, could be from the old cyl heads that the GP Tip fell onto? Hence why your "New" ones don't have any signs or wear or Dmg.

Ever thought of a Supercharger instead of a turbo? A M90 or a 6-71 would work fine. But not sure how the 6.2 would handle to boost. I've only ever seen them up to 10 psi and MAX at that... even a friend of mine who had a Custom 6.2/6.5 hybrid maxxing out at 325hp ($8,000 build) he was pushing 7-10 psi.

I forgot to mention for the Fluid Dampener i'd go with Leroy-Diesel practically the best out there! He should have upgraded Timing chain & gears too along with the Oil cooler lines. Getting a pair for my 1982 red block if the Stock originals off my low-mileage parts truck fail.

Anyway I think you have a Solid platform here. I have 1 (660 Red block) parts eng and a bunch of other items in 2 Tubs if you need anything.
The most I can find about a supercharger is a kit that whipple made for the H1. Not available anymore. I think for a little more money and effort I can ditch the ebay knockoff turbo idea and splash out for some genuine hx35 action even if I have to buy used units and rebuild them. I haven't ever done that and I'm very keen to learn. Knock off HX35s are $180 and genuine used HX35s seem to be going for $200-220 and a rebuild kit is $40-60. Seems like good value and even though those knockoff turbos have seen some success, I'd feel a whole lot better with a genuine article under the hood, even if it was me who rebuilt it :p

Leaving for Kingman tomorrow at 6am to go get the Hudson! Pics of it IN MY DRIVEWAY to follow!
 
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Gotcha. I told them to take as little as possible obviously because there is no “chamber” to speak of like in a gas motor. Already was planning to run the .010 gaskets to help, even just a little, with lowering compression ratio.
The gasket helps, but it's more of an issue of the precups sinking into the head after machining which is out of spec. Though it will run this way.

 

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They called and the heads are done. Haven’t been able to pick them up yet since I was out of town for a few days and my daily driver has been hemorrhaging oil ever since I had the front timing cover off for chain and variable cam solenoid work. This engine has an upper and lower oil pan and requires you to support the engine weight and drop the front subframe to get the upper oil pan out of there. I suppose when I bought a 18 year old German V8, I knew these days would come. It’s a fun car to row through the gears with though. Can’t quite figure a way to pick up heads on the motorcycle yet. Aaaaaaanyway

The machine shop told me they were able to make flat again by only taking 3 thou. which I’m pretty happy about. I’ll have to take a look at the precups when l pick them up but hopefully I won’t be in the same boat, roadhog. I did want to make sure they’d be totally true so hopefully I won’t regret not taking your suggestion, sir.

Other than that, gasket kit, ARP head studs, oil pump, and reman 6.5 fuel injectors are on the way. I haven’t found anyone who still offers the timing gear set if anybody knows where I can snag a quality one. I wasn’t even able to find a foreign made one for the 6.2/6.5. I checked Kennedy, Leroy, and a few others and it seems there wasn’t enough demand for anybody to keep making them. A new chain set will be fine I’m sure. Just have to check the play and replace as needed every time this engine is out for repurposing...or bottom end failure.:rolleyes:

The next logical step is to get that 440 running and sold to fund some snails! Haven’t done much work on old distributor/carb engines so there’s much to learn as always. They’ve always seemed pretty easy though. Basically the caveman’s engine. Should be able to get it running with a damn hammer.

As promised, pics on the Hudson rolled
out in the sun, it’s travels, and finally in front of my house.
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Also as a bonus, the old guy that I bought the Hudson from is amazing. One of the projects he is now selling is a 1942 Caddy that he has Zeused in a 2005 Cadillac floor pan, complete interior, dashboard, North Star engine, front subframe and suspension, and rear complete suspension and axle. Amazingly done build. He’s selling it as is, unpainted for something absurd like $5k-6k. Even has the 2005 Cadillac wheels. He says it took 3 different early 2000s cars in various states of salvage to make it work. Guy is a fantastic craftsman. The other side of his shop (60x90-ish that he erected by himself with some help from his wife with a set of rolling scaffolding by the way) is the three show cars and walls lined with trophies. Amazing man. If I had half his skills by the time I’m 80 I’ll be happy.
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Ron’s show cars. Two of them have never been driven which is a shame but the coolest one, that burgundy Starliner, was built to be their driver and has been down the road so much that it’s on its second engine.
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Here’s the heads. One of the precups seemed to have sunk into the head like you thought. Are we sure the precups don’t just live a couple thou into the heads from the factory? Also found evidence of whatever dropped into the cylinder on the head itself seen between the valves.
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Also, did the markings for the precups get milled off in a couple of them?
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Here’s the heads. One of the precups seemed to have sunk into the head like you thought. Are we sure the precups don’t just live a couple thou into the heads from the factory? Also found evidence of whatever dropped into the cylinder on the head itself seen between the valves. View attachment 637536
View attachment 637537
Also, did the markings for the precups get milled off in a couple of them?
View attachment 637538
That first pic of the precup shows a noticeable crack.. The one that is sunk in I would not use as is..
 

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That's sorta what I thought would happen. When those are cut the machine likes to pull the precups out a little and leaves you with this. Spec is 0 to I believe 0.003" of protrusion. Below deck height is not per spec. That being said I ran the last head not knowing they were sunk (weren't when I put them in) and never popped it. You could maybe run it, but that's up to you. If you're going to run new precups, dont buy the cheap Chinese options. They wear out in 1/10th the time of the real deal. I tested that already.... I may have a set of take-outs running around if you need em or you can get new military ones on ebay usually at a reasonable price.

As far the gear versus timing chain goes, you'll be fine with the chain. They're good for a solid 100k miles easy. Not worth worrying about.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The precup cracks don’t concern me as they’re not beyond the fire ring. Pretty sure it was the turbonator boys that said they haven’t seen a used head without some kind of cracking in the precups. Or maybe Dariac. The precup that’s slightly sunken concerns me a little I just don’t know why it would sink in as a result of machining. Physics-wise it just doesn’t make sense to me.

Gaskets and timing set are on the way. Oil pump is here. Studs are here. Thread cleaners are n the way. Injectors are on the way. Gotta get my car back together first. So that’s today’s issue.

The lip on the front crank oil seal is blown out partially and I think that must be the cause of my oil leak. Hopefully I can get it right without taking off the timing covers again but this ain’t a Bimmer forum so I’ll go piss and moan to them about that one!

Thanks for the support guys! Hopefully it’ll be a cool build!
 
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