Diesel Place banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got low compression on cylinder 7 also coolant in oil and stuck/broken glow plug on 2. I'm thinking of head job on both sides.

Never done head gasket b4 but seems easy.

What else i should check while doing it. Something knocks on anything above idle, dont think the head is relaited to that..

Also any advice on the glow plug(will add pic when im there). It is jammed and cut near head. Thinking of taking the head off and welding nut on whats left of it?

Also tips what to check and replace?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Codes? Not going to have a computer on a 6.2 in a boat.

If the threaded part of the glow plug is stuck, careful use of a broken bolt extractor will work. They are hollow so minimal drilling is needed. Thread repair kits are available.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Finaly had some work done.. Guess the knock comes from this..
Bag Gas Auto part Fashion accessory Luggage and bags


That valve was realy sticky, got it smooth by cleaning and oiling.. Just wierd how the knock sounded like its coming from other side..

Also got the glow plug off by drilling after i spend like 10h fighting with it. 8.5mm drill and after that i forced screwdriver between the treads. Still gotta fix the tread.. 10x1mm is it?

Not sure if i can bring it back to life. Watery oil was all the way up to lifters. Cleaned those.. The main bearings worry me. The crank seems seazed, only can try to turn it by hand. No room to use tool. Still think it should move fairly easy without heads.. Can i try with starter?
Waiting for seals now
 

Attachments

·
Administrator
Joined
·
21,767 Posts
Finaly had some work done.. Guess the knock comes from this..
View attachment 650838

That valve was realy sticky, got it smooth by cleaning and oiling.. Just wierd how the knock sounded like its coming from other side..

Also got the glow plug off by drilling after i spend like 10h fighting with it. 8.5mm drill and after that i forced screwdriver between the treads. Still gotta fix the tread.. 10x1mm is it?

Not sure if i can bring it back to life. Watery oil was all the way up to lifters. Cleaned those.. The main bearings worry me. The crank seems seazed, only can try to turn it by hand. No room to use tool. Still think it should move fairly easy without heads.. Can i try with starter?
Waiting for seals now
I would bet the valve(s) are bent, thus sticking.
You can bump it over using the starter if need be but..... I would pull the bottom end and inspect. I bet you have a bent rod making it difficult to turn
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
21,767 Posts
What kind of filter this should have?
Your intake should be connected to an air intake box with a filter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Got the crank freed by starter. Now i can turn it by hand. All cylinders comes align with top of the block.. So no bend rods? Also the valve moves smooth after cleaning. Thinking of assembling it soon.

What kind of sealant for the head bolts?

It had that kind of silenser as filter, thinking of getting correct air box, or does big turbo intake filter work also?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
You have the head off, you need to check all valves for sealing, replacing valve stem seals and checking valve shaft to guide clearances. Thus requires disassembly, cleaning and measuring. Then checking sealing with Prussian Blue, lapping if needed. The factory manual is available free download.
If the valves and seats are good but the guides are worn, some machine shops can knock the valve guides to restore fit, this displaces metal inward, then the guides are reamed to fit and then valves are lapped. Saves parts and is faster than sleeve inserts which require two reamings.

With a diesel, you don't need a valve spring compressor tool, but it helps. Diesel valves typically run dry as intake vacuum doesn't draw fresh oil into the guide. What little lubrication comes from seeping during shut down. CDR blow by causes stem deposits which then attract dirt, wearing valve guides and stems.

The stuck valve could have been deposits but a bent valve is always possible. Valves usually rotate to assure sealing, a bent valve won't and will eventually fail. Valves must freely rotate at all operating heights.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top