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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New to diesels and learning as quick as ya'll can teach me.

The project: Building an 83 Jeep Scrambler (CJ-8) Dynatrac Dana 60s front & rear/5.13 gears/disk brakes, Dana 300 xfer case, NV4500 tranny, 37" SSRs and a 6.2L diesel out of an 86 Burb.

The questions:
Any special considerations that I need to pull the engine?
What all do I need to take from the donor? (I can take off what ever I need but can't keep it around, I know it is better to, but can't)
What are the MUST do's for the engine once pulled while on the stand?...Planned on at least a gaskets & seals, but don't want to rebuild it..

That is all I can remember at this time of night..as ya'll reply I'm sure I will remember my other questions.

Cheers,

Truck
 

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Eagle Eyes
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um...the fuel filter. all needed electric. im not sure what youre going to do with cooling issues..engine was meant to have big radiator with oil/tranny cooler. i hear guys pull the hydraboost unit and use that in the swap.

umm... ummm..

while engine is pulled check/change glow plugs. easier to get to with engine out then in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Okay fellas, I know it has been a while but I have the engine out. I was going to go through it with at least new gaskets and seals. Anything I need to be specifically looking for as I tear into it. I don't want to rebuild the whole thing if I don't have to.
Who makes a good gasket kit and where can I get one at a good price?
Is there only one glow plug that fits or should I look at an 'upgrade'?
Anything else while I have it on the stand that is a must or should do that will prevent later problems?

I don't have an unlimited budget but fling those expert thoughts my way.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
After the engine is done I will be needing a flywheel. I know 6.2 flywheels are externally balanced but where they all the same?
Will a 6.5 flywheel work?
Is used okay?
Will clutch for a gasser work (I have a centerforce for LT1)?

Thanks for the advice..

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While engine is on the stand, you may as well do head gaskets. Use Felpro, head bolts also need to be replaced, Felpro again. Northern auto parts has the parts for a good price, or try Rock auto. You are going to want to use a manual glow plug set up(do a search here for the info), and use AC 60G glow plugs(self limiting, they don't burn out if you leave them on too long.) Was the Burb a 1/2 or 3/4 ton? 1/2 will have egr intake, needs to be replaced with non egr for max power. Injection pump is next issue, does it look like it has been rebuilt? While engine is on stand, inspect bottom end, pretty easy to roll in a set of inserts if it needs them and replace the rope seal rear main with a neoprene(felpro) rear main. Other than that, welcome to the place!
Did the engine run before you pulled it? Make sure you have a provision for a fuel return to the fuel tank.
You can use any 6.2 flywheel or late model 6.5 one piece flywheel. You will need a diesel clutch(northern auto has luk) they are 12 inch. Don't use a 6.5 dual mass flywheel. You might need to modify your bellhousing to make the diesel starter nose clear or use an aftermarket gear reduction starter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Engine came from 86 suburban 1500, so 1/2 ton. It seemed to run fine when I pulled it. The tranny was shot so I didn't get to drive it. White smoke at start up but settled out after warm up. I'm not new to wrenching but it has been a long time since I tore into an engine. So please assume I know nothing I will not be insulted with elementary explainations.

I figured all the gaskets and seals would be fairly simple and smart while on the stand. Especially since I don't personally know history of this engine. I see a Felpro trend in your gasket choice. I take it they are the better gasket.
So just pick up a used intake from 3/4 or 1 ton?
Anything else besides the intake need to be replaced/removed to get rid of egr?
Is there a specific way to tell if the IP has been rebuilt?
So we are on the same page what do you mean by inserts?
What is the difference in 1 piece flywheel vs not?

Yes, I will have to rewicker my stock tank for fuel return.

Thanks for advice please keep it coming.

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Get an intake off of a hd 3/4 or 1 ton, no egr to restrict airflow, a block off plate can also be made for your current manifold, but it won't flow as well as a non egr manifold. Next, you will want to give the injection pump about 1/8 to 1/4 turn for more fuel. If you have the pump off of the engine, the easy way to turn up the fuel is through the side plate, has two small screws in it. Turn pump over until allen head bolt is seen, turn clockwise to increase fuel delivery.
By inserts, I am referring to the main and rod bearings. These are relatively inexpensive and if they show any signs of wear, this would be an easy time to change them.
I reference felpro, because that is who makes the oem gaskets and they are the best available for head gaskets. You might also want to plan on a thorough cleaning of the intake ports on the heads and valves, since the egr makes a mess out of them and can drastically reduce flow.:grd:
As far as flywheels go, a dual mass flywheel has a very large bearing in the center of it and has two pieces that move indepentantly of each other, they have a high failure rate and were only used in 6.5's from 92 to 97. A single mass flywheel was used in all 6.2's and later 6.5's. The flywheel has to be from a diesel as the engines are externally balanced and unique.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the info..

What about stud girdles and timing gears? Are these things necessary? Are they worth the expense while I have the engine out?

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not worth the money in my opinion.
 
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