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Discussion Starter · #281 ·
Hey guys quick question:

What do you think about lift blocks?

Here's the situation. This truck was rwd converted to 4x4. I removed the rear ghetto shackle flip it came with and restored the shackle back to stock. Now I have another problem. The front of the truck is five inches higher than the rear. It has the dragging a** stance. Now the bumper is too low for the trailer. I have to haul firewood to the farm and scrap to the yard. Without a trailer I would have to do like a thousand trips each way back and forth which is money and time consuming. I know where to get lift springs which is the way to go but for now temporarily would I be alright running five inch blocks in the back to make up for the lost height? The loaded trailer is like 3000 lbs. It would be all back roads no highway, no hard pulls no extreme wheeling. I just don't want the whole housing to come flying out of the truck you know.
 

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Yes, a block will work as long as your rear drive shaft, brake line, parking brake lines and shocks are long enough.

You will get some spring wrap but you don’t run your truck hard so I wouldn’t worry bout it.

Ya they did an interesting change over on that truck....
 

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Yeah, I would "2nd" the idea of the 5" blocks too. It beats Gabriel Hi-Jackers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #284 ·
Hey what's up everyone. Having a good weekend. Threw four inch blocks on. The DS splines got left sticking too far. No farm trip for Rufus until the DS gets stretched. Went with the fours instead. Fives would've been reverse drag @$$ stance. Yeah Big this truck is a freak. I searched the shocks Joe. The description claims camper and boat hauling benefits. That's what I need some boating and camping for sure you know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #285 ·
What's up everybody
So it's been several long years since the truck is back on the road. Last week skipped work to go see some ghetto pimp thug 22 inch wheels. When I started the truck there was a faint thud in the background which I attributed to a sticky injector and thought it would go away when it got warmed up. Well the thud turned into a loud knock with intermittent sharp metallic bang like hitting a hammer against an anvil. The whole truck is shakes and rattles like cylinder missfire. Drained and sifted the hot oil and found no shavings or metal dust in the oil. Have not dropped pan yet. I think there could be several possibilities:
1) stuck open injector flooded cylinder, hydro locked and bent rod. Heavy black smoke was coming out of one bank of cylinders, separate mufflers. No diesel smell in exhaust.
2) collapsed lifter
3) bent, broken or stuck open valve
4) broken piston ring but that wouldn't explain the intermittent mettallic bang.
5) I think the most likely could be a spun rod bearing and the rod is hitting the block. That could explain the erratic unstable idle and missfire like symptoms. Like the whole engine wants to rattle itself off the mounts. Also when I rebuilt I had to take some shortcuts because it is a pita to get parts here and some of the bearings had larger tolerances than suggested in the manual. Could only find one size of bearings so I couldn't mix and match bearings. Also the reprehensible severely drunk behavior of the rebuilder (me) during most of the process.
6) Loose flywheel bolt hitting the clutch plate springs idk.
7) All of the above
8) None of the above
I have a friend that has a short block supposed to be in alright condition. It is a 6.2 recently bored out to 6.5, new rings, pistons bearings by competent mechanic with 6.2/5 experience. it had a short lived hard life in a k30 tow rig until it cracked the heads and got replaced with a cummins.
So the moral of the story here is stop scrolling through marketplace all day instead of working to prevent irrational urge to convert a k10 into a donk
So the moral of the story here is work hard instead of scrolling through marketplace all day prevents irrational urges to transform into a donk an otherwise perfectly funcitional k10. Attached are the pictures of the k10 on the 22 inch donk wheels on new 33 inch mt 10 ply Toyo tires with the rubber strings still on. $2000 listed price. I won't lie I still think it looks really badass. I didn't buy the dumb wheels btw. The seller is still calling me and threatening to sue me because he said we already had a deal so I gotta cough up the scratch. I say bring it on but good luck getting anything from the divorce court. The seller forgot the hubcaps in his jeep or some **** so I backed out of the deal feeling like I was getting burned when he wouldn't drop the price a hundred for the missing caps.
Also check out the video link. You hear that? that is the sound of the sweet music of a possible spun bearing to the tune of the prospect of long weeknights slogging away at the old iron once again for future reference.
I'm not a gambler but willing to take bets on the possible outcomes. Like we could have some kind of online survey of what the possible culprit could be and then find out who won when it's torn apart.

 

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What's up everybody
So it's been several long years since the truck is back on the road. Last week skipped work to go see some ghetto pimp thug 22 inch wheels. When I started the truck there was a faint thud in the background which I attributed to a sticky injector and thought it would go away when it got warmed up. Well the thud turned into a loud knock with intermittent sharp metallic bang like hitting a hammer against an anvil. The whole truck is shakes and rattles like cylinder missfire. Drained and sifted the hot oil and found no shavings or metal dust in the oil. Have not dropped pan yet. I think there could be several possibilities:
1) stuck open injector flooded cylinder, hydro locked and bent rod. Heavy black smoke was coming out of one bank of cylinders, separate mufflers. No diesel smell in exhaust.
2) collapsed lifter
3) bent, broken or stuck open valve
4) broken piston ring but that wouldn't explain the intermittent mettallic bang.
5) I think the most likely could be a spun rod bearing and the rod is hitting the block. That could explain the erratic unstable idle and missfire like symptoms. Like the whole engine wants to rattle itself off the mounts. Also when I rebuilt I had to take some shortcuts because it is a pita to get parts here and some of the bearings had larger tolerances than suggested in the manual. Could only find one size of bearings so I couldn't mix and match bearings. Also the reprehensible severely drunk behavior of the rebuilder (me) during most of the process.
6) Loose flywheel bolt hitting the clutch plate springs idk.
7) All of the above
8) None of the above
I have a friend that has a short block supposed to be in alright condition. It is a 6.2 recently bored out to 6.5, new rings, pistons bearings by competent mechanic with 6.2/5 experience. it had a short lived hard life in a k30 tow rig until it cracked the heads and got replaced with a cummins.
So the moral of the story here is stop scrolling through marketplace all day instead of working to prevent irrational urge to convert a k10 into a donk
So the moral of the story here is work hard instead of scrolling through marketplace all day prevents irrational urges to transform into a donk an otherwise perfectly funcitional k10. Attached are the pictures of the k10 on the 22 inch donk wheels on new 33 inch mt 10 ply Toyo tires with the rubber strings still on. $2000 listed price. I won't lie I still think it looks really badass. I didn't buy the dumb wheels btw. The seller is still calling me and threatening to sue me because he said we already had a deal so I gotta cough up the scratch. I say bring it on but good luck getting anything from the divorce court. The seller forgot the hubcaps in his jeep or some **** so I backed out of the deal feeling like I was getting burned when he wouldn't drop the price a hundred for the missing caps.
Also check out the video link. You hear that? that is the sound of the sweet music of a possible spun bearing to the tune of the prospect of long weeknights slogging away at the old iron once again for future reference.
I'm not a gambler but willing to take bets on the possible outcomes. Like we could have some kind of online survey of what the possible culprit could be and then find out who won when it's torn apart.

Good to see you!

I would guess it's a lifter/pushrod/valve issue.
Maybe a nylon retainer button broke loose and allowed things to move around
 

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Juan, what did you do!? Can't you see your truck is trying to tell your something. It's lost with those stupid looking wheels. I can see them on a sports car, not a truck. To each his own I guess. (My future son-in law did the same thing to his 1976 C-10, with low mileage. And guess what? His motor too just crapped out, and sounds 10 times worse than yours).

Anyway, that knock doesn't sound pretty. If you spun a brg, you would lose oil pressure. did you? I would pull the valve covers, and 1st look for something valve train related. you'll need to take them off to get to the bottom end anyway, so you might as well start there. Sorry to hear.
 

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LOL! Damn it Juan, I laughed at that description! I'd guess injector stuck open (sounds like a rod knock) or something in the valvetrain. Good luck man!
 

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Discussion Starter · #289 ·
Thanks a lot for all the suggestions. Fair punishment for betraying the 16x7 cragar Dwindows. 2 old trucks with severe engine issues immediately after installing hideous oversized wheels is not coincidence.
Edit question: what head gaskets should I use on a 6.2 block bored out to 6.5?
 

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No cracks yet but still have to look harder. Removed HB, timing set and cover. All gears came off by hand. Did not need a puller. Took out the pistons. Quick tip for anyone else trying this first time: be very careful don't scratch or damage the bores or polished surfaces of the crank. I used rubber hoses over the connecting rod stud threads like I read in an old thread.
Last year I installed a new radiator and after I flushed it endless times somehow the water never got clear. The coolant chamber inside the block is full of mud. It is an orange rust colored clay. Why would anyone fill a block with mud?
One of the pistons has the side scratched and scored inside the bore. Maybe this engine was used with a bad oil pump?
I too flushed the system with clean water , have never put anything from a puddle in it, used Prestone coolant 50/50. It still ends up like clay. I've got flushing agent product but v.wary using it...
 

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The OEM heads were cast valve seats, possibly one reason why they cracked also, between the valves. Problem is that there is a water passage that passes also between valves, so as crack gets bigger and deeper, the compression from the cylinder starts to pressurize the coolant system and coolant can enter the cylinder. Your crack is also going into water jacket. With these cracks, many think that the head gasket is blown, but it is the cracks that cause the problem. We are working on a fix, with a dowel blocking the passage between valves, but is on hold until we have time again to finish our set of test heads (also hardened and enlarged valve seats)....LOL (summer is our busy time working). The "newer" GEP heads already have hardened seats...J&J.

BTW, very nice micrometer, being that it is a 75mm-100mm, it should have a precision length dowel, to verify calibration, and to get a "feel" for the pressure needed, to measure accuratly...:thumb::thumb:
Hi turbonator! Do you have an update of this fix please? Some pics too? I saw something about some brass dowels driven into a 6.5 head, didn't understand it...yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #292 ·
Hi turbonator! Do you have an update of this fix please? Some pics too? I saw something about some brass dowels driven into a 6.5 head, didn't understand it...yet.
I tried the block repair with inserts long story short it did not work or I did it wrong. Some pictures of the procedure here:
 

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Discussion Starter · #293 ·
What's up everybody.
Followed the above advice and started off by removing the valve covers. The issue was imediately visible. One of the rocker shaft bolts broke off. The push rods all straight. No visible damage. So either the bolt got loose and the movement sheared it or a lifter locked up and shocked the valves.
Question: should I remove all the lifters to inspect them which would be a pita with the risk of dropping a part in the engine?
I think a hard enough hit would have been bent the push rod. I don`t want to take out the lifters if I don`t have to.
 

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Maybe you got lucky on this one Juan. Is the broken bolt visible? Did you get it all out? If so, if it were mine, I would replace the busted bolt, and have some-one crank over the eng., (slowly) and watch the valve action. If all appears normal, cover it up, and keep your fingers crossed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #295 ·
Hey Joe
Thankfully the broken bolt came out easy. The sheared off stub just spun right out. I got new bolts already and cleaning off valve covers. Was considering painting the valve covers red or yellow to gain 5hp but discarded the idea because the truck always breaks when it gets any esthetic upgrades. I will turn it over slowly and look for issues. Thank you for the help. Time to start building up a spare engine just in case. Was thinking about a gas 350 but with gas down here at $6/gallon I rather stay with diesel. A friend has a short block 6.2 recently bored to 6.5 new pistons, rings, bearings with starter and IP just lying around. Was used really hard for about six or eight months in a tow truck until it cracked the heads. Definitely overheated also but these blocks are tough. I used mine with cracked heads and overheating for almost 2 years until the rebuild and the block was still good. Also located some hummer heads but apparently they have a different injector angle which I don't know if it makes any difference.
 

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Hi Juan, the different inj. angle is on my 93 6.2 also. (Compared to my 83 C-30 6.2) I guess it's an up-grade, and they tell me it gives more clearance when you run a turbo.

And I envy you for having your diesel fuel cheaper than gas. In the good ole US of A, we had that benefit since the beginning of time, till the twin towers came down. Then (for some God forsaken reason) some-one decided it would be beneficial to their wallet to double the price of diesel. it's a crime that continues today.

I hope you can acquire that friends short-block. It'll be a great security blanket. Cause you know if you buy it, your current motor will never break again. It'll sit dormant in your garage, and you'll be tripping over it the rest of your life. But if you sell it, you can bank on a blown piston, in your current motor. (Just the way my life runs anyway. Good luck.)
 
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