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I don't know Juan, but at an idle, I don't think it should smoke anything, hardly at all. What color is your smoke? A "very basic" rule of thumb is-
1-Blue is oil
2-Black is fuel
3-White is water
Tho some people have had a mixture of some. Under a load or acceleration, I could see something blowing out, but cruising or idle, I would think your exhaust should be pretty clean. I know now that mine is getting older, it'll puff a little blue, and under a load, "I pity the fool behind me", but it's not as bad as some of these punks that crank up their fuel system so they can be cool "rolling coal". (Don't particularly understand the thrill or image of that, but hey, what do I know.)
Be nice if you could post a pic of your exhaust when it's cold, and then warmed up.
 

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who was it specifically in Lancaster that built that pump? was it conestoga diesel, or one of the other shops? maybe the "little diesel shop"? almost seems like there might be issues, or its just that your timing is way off.... also what lift pump again? mechanical or electric?
 

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Discussion Starter · #263 ·
Conestoga rebuilt pump. New head and rotor they said. Lift pump is electric for a 93 6.5.
Smoke is light blue. Acrid eye watering smell.
 

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Pump half way advanced between lined up and full advance. Starts right up without glows. Advance lever test shows a very slight hessitation but not stumble. Almost like running it with the lift pump turned off.
Retard it a little from here, the slight hesitation is showing it is slightly advanced from optimal. A 1/16" is almost a 5 degree change if I remember right. The fact the advance lever does nothing at the extreme ends of the adjustment is no surprise, it's already so far off, a few degrees of timing isn't going to make a noticeable change.

Do you have a clear line on the return side of the injection pump? Any bubbles?

Can you open the drain valve on the filter, fill a liter jug in 30 seconds AND not have the engine stumble or miss?



Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #265 ·
Truck running good now, smoke cleared up after redlining it for about ten minutes. I know it passes the jug test bc it pours diesel everywhere when bleeding it. Have not performed the clear line experiment. There has to be a leak though bc it starts hard after sitting for a few months.
Upon further inspection of the trans and removing the input bearing cover holder discovered more surprises. Obviously the cover is cracked, welded and recracked. The weld is porous and does not look very good. The cover was sealed with silicone and was hitting the input shaft. It's very difficult to find anything on this truck that is not broken. So the clutch is heavily contaminated with oil. It is and 11 inch clutch. The flywheel has a raised 11 inch friction surface. The pressure plate has flat springs. The parts store gave me a 12 inch clutch with raised or curved levers where the throw out bearing contacts it.
I have a serious question: can I use the 12 inch clutch on the 11 inch flywheel?
Ok two questions: Is grinding 1/16 off the flywheel to make it flat to accept the 12 inch flywheel an option or would that reduce too much clamping pressure?
thanks everyone
 

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No, don't try to fit a 12in clutch on a 11in fly wheel.


All I gata say is, you have a very nice body but the rest ... wow ... there are some issues.


The hard starting will be air, hop on Ebay and find some check valve, should be a $1 or less each, put 1 between the pump and the filter and between the filter and the IP. That should help a lot but it's still a patch for an air leak.


:bigglasse
 

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Yaaa....hot vs crazy ...


Hop on Youtube and search for that ... worth a good giggle...


:bigglasse
 

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Discussion Starter · #270 ·
Crazy is a lot more fun
Removed pin roller pilot bearing before it takes out the shaft. Packed with grease mixed with toilet paper then hammered out with a chisel. Still can't believe that actually worked.
Replaced with new solid bearing.
Flywheel looks straight, no scratches, no ridges and no visible evidence of overheating. Truck shuddered substantially when letting the clutch out.
Should I get the flywheel resurfaced?
 

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Crazy is a lot more fun
Removed pin roller pilot bearing before it takes out the shaft. Packed with grease mixed with toilet paper then hammered out with a chisel. Still can't believe that actually worked.
Replaced with new solid bearing.
Flywheel looks straight, no scratches, no ridges and no visible evidence of overheating. Truck shuddered substantially when letting the clutch out.
Should I get the flywheel resurfaced?

I've done the grease pack before, soap works too.


Was the clutch chattering? If not I'd run it.
 

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Hmmm ... tough call cause it could go either way, flywheel/ pressure plate or disc issue.


Speaking of the pressure plate, how did it look?


:bigglasse
 

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Typically, and this is just my experience, chatter on clutch release is disc pressure plate or throw out bearing. All of those are pretty cheap, and you can always keep the disc and pressure plate as a back up spare.

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Discussion Starter · #274 ·
Thank you everyone for the answers and sorry for the late reply.
I wouldn't call it chattering it was more like a shudder like the truck would start shaking if I stayed on the clutch for too long.
The disk was oil soaked. The pressure plate looked good. Throw out bearing wasn't bad but not great either so I bought a new one. Same size.
I bought a new clutch. Couldn't get the same exact LUK one it had on before. Bought a generic brand clutch. Only thing I could find in 11 inch.
Resurfaced the flywheel. Threw everything back together.
THAT WAS THE NIGHT THAT EVERYTHING CHAAANGED
First off the fork was out of adjustment, like no where even near where it should be located for proper adjustment. The gear lever was stuck in position. No gears at all which was really weird bc I did nothing to the trans except reseal the pto and changed the front seal. Didn't even pull the top cover. So forks must have moved around when I took off the gear lever. Clutch travel had a huge thud mid travel and hard af.
Removed top cover, realigned forks and resealed it. Now the gear lever moves into the gears. Start the engine and get a rrr rrr sound coming out of the trans. Driveshaft spins erratically in neutral. Clutch snap grabs at top of the pedal travel and truck lurches. Something is very wrong so immediately stopped it. Pull trans top cover again. Try turning gears in neutral and nothing they are all seized solid.
Drop trans and transfer. The trans was locked because the nut on the rear output was too tight. Once I adjusted it correctly everything freed up. Which was also weird because it spun freely before it took it off the first time.
Threw everything back on the truck in the pouring rain and lightning.
Adjusted the clutch fork pivot further out closer to the pressure plate. I think it could have the wrong throw out bearing. The height or depth of the new disk and plate is like an inch more than the old parts.
I moved the pedal lever down a hole in the bellcrank.
465, 205 are a heavy pig.
Now pedal has an inch of free travel at the top and almost immediately the clutch grabs way at the top.
Tonight is the shakedown run to the hardware store. I really need this truck. Highway commuting to and from work in torrential downpour season on a dirtbike with knobbies is life threatening during rush hour.
 

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Discussion Starter · #276 · (Edited)
I know right like professional mental help after the trans to bell housing bolt hole stripped out I had to question my sanity.
edit: I agree I do need a backup vehicle, another 6.2 square.
 

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Discussion Starter · #277 ·
Shakedown ran it last night to the hardware store in heavy heavy traffic. An hour to travel a few miles. Drove my kid to school this morning. He was so stoked looking over the big huge hood. Then drove it to work. Clutch works good, gears shift ok I guess. Engagement is smooth and predictable but still higher than a stewardess. I followed Joe's advice and asked someone with more experience about the problems I was having with the clutch. He said it could be like half engaged and could fry the clutch. I still have to try the stall test to see if it's slipping like a parrot on polished marble. His suggestion was run it but get the old clutch rebuilt. That way when it's finished I can just swap the "new" old clutch. Always good to have a backup and now I know I can get that trans and transfer off and on in a morning so feeling good about the truck.
 

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I like your ambition, Juan. You're a better man than me. I rebuilt a TH350 in a 73 Jimmy many years ago, and pulled/installed it and the transfer case on my back, in a parking lot. Vowed never to do that again.
 

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To do a basic slip test is grab 2nd, probably labled as 1st on the knob, get rolling about 2000is rpm, and stand on the throttle and the brakes at the same time ....


1 of 2 things will happen ... bunch of engine noise and probably slowing down .... the other will be a rolling brake stand .... truck still rolling ahead and the rear tires spinning...


If the clutch slips, you'll hear the engine rpm come up and the truck slow down or stay the same speed.


:bigglasse
 

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Discussion Starter · #280 ·
I like your ambition, Juan. You're a better man than me. I rebuilt a TH350 in a 73 Jimmy many years ago, and pulled/installed it and the transfer case on my back, in a parking lot. Vowed never to do that again.
:eek: did you at least use a floor jack??? or just bench press it into place:eek:

To do a basic slip test is grab 2nd, probably labled as 1st on the knob, get rolling about 2000is rpm, and stand on the throttle and the brakes at the same time ....


1 of 2 things will happen ... bunch of engine noise and probably slowing down .... the other will be a rolling brake stand .... truck still rolling ahead and the rear tires spinning...



If the clutch slips, you'll hear the engine rpm come up and the truck slow down or stay the same speed.


:bigglasse
^^^this^^^ is gonna be sick I gotta make a video

Linkage had no springs anywhere. Went out and bought a bunch of different size springs. Attached one from z-bar to fork, another from z-bar to frame pulling forward opposite of clutch engagement. Missing the one from the pedal to underneath the dash. Pedal rod hits the steering column at top of travel. Remember this truck was manual swapped by PO. Shortened the rod between z-bar and fork. Clutch engages approx mid pedal. As far as I could tell the throwout bearing is not loaded when foot is off the pedal. I tried moving the fork pivot in further towards the trans but that just made the back of the fork hit the bellhousing. Any other springs it could be missing? I heard mentioned one from fork to frame pulling backwards towards clutch engagement but thought why would there be two springs pulling in opposite directions on the same part.
 
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