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Seems pricey. Just got a 60 and 14ff for 900 here. Though that was a deal. 60's here are in the 900-1500 range.
You do remember he’s outside of North America, right....
 

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.... which could be an awesome price .... or not ... IDK ???

I bet most don't give a shiet about King sized stuff or could be very sought after if most everything is a tiny lil Japanese mini truck ....

Then there's the man hrs and exchange to make the $3500 ...



:coffee:
 

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Discussion Starter · #243 ·
Backed off the k30 purchase. I need a reliable engine first before I can start thinking about suspension upgrades. Priorities straight you know. Anyway here's a couple of pictures. I'll try to low ball'em for $2000 see what happens.
Started the truck up again last night. Bled the brakes. Then it started overheating. Vigorously sprayed a couple of gallons of coolant out. Violently just blasting it out the hose. I said this can't be normal. Rad cap is new.
Will try it again tonight with t-stat removed. If that doesn't work then comp test is next.
 

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Juan, how many hrs have you run it? You had mentioned it was smoking quite a bit B4. Since the rebuild, I thought you had driven it, maybe not. It's not unusual for a new eng. to run hot, depending how tight everything is. But after a couple hrs, it should be cooling down. Have you mixed the anti-freeze, or running straight water? I'm assuming your fans, pump and radiator are all up to snuff.
 
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Dammmmn that sucks .... I'll hold off on the 2000 mile guess's as to why it puked the coolant. I will sudgest to pull 1 full bank of GP's, unplug the pink wire from the IP and crank while looking in the rad cap .... not too close though .... and get back to us .... Censored

Annnnd daaaammmnnnn I may make a road trip for that K3500 if you don't get it!!! :coolnana::coolnana::coolnana::coolnana:

:coffee:
 

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Discussion Starter · #246 ·
Go for it. Can't be that far. Couple weeks and bam! Here just like that. Took off the tstat (Stant). Good news no more overheating. Idled for a solid hour and I could touch the hose and rad cap the whole time. Upper hose does not get hard at cold startup. This is the fifth hour long idling session. Haven't really taken it out yet besides a few times around the block. All new radiator, fan clutch, water pump, radiator cap and hoses.
Still smokes but could be old injectors.
 

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Good news that it runs cooler without the thermostat in it.

What does the pressure feel like in the top radiator hose when you squeeze it while engine running?

You need to do some more community service/road clearing and do a few more tours around your neighborhood.....LOL. This will give you a better idea if it was the thermostat or not.

Then you need to work it some to get the rings to seat. Jeff says to find a straight road and do a few runs. Vary your throttle and if you have a couple good hill climbs do them also. This will aid in seating, and will not only run cooler and smoke less, but will sooth your nerves., and bring you back into the semi-coherent fold with the rest of us......

That 3500 looks like a money making truck if we ever saw one....J&J.
 
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Discussion Starter · #249 ·
Hey everyone. More progress done. Warped back into the coherent realms of reality. Been driving the truck a lot. Pulls, hills, soft wheeling, rush hour dense urban traffic. Smoking has improved significantly, still not good enough for inspection though. Pump is all the way to the driver side. Bottomed out in the holes. No more overheating at all. Got the factory gauges working. Top radiator hose is actually really soft after vigorous driving. Air blows out the rad cap if I squeeze it.
Here's the question: I need some new injectors ASAFP. I can have someone flying them down here on the 15. That gives me 5 days to buy them and get them shipped down to Florida. I'm looking at Badger as my first choice but can also go with Leroy, Kennedy or Pensacola. Any suggestions? Thanks everyone
 

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Ya tough question there ...

I can see if they are all new, or new tips, ... but yes, prices are all over the map....

:coffee:
 

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I haven't bought any in a while Juan, so I'm sorry I'm not much help. Hopefully the new injectors will help your smoking problem.
 

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We are running a set of new Delphi's from badger, been great, think we paid $250 for them... fred also tests everything, not all sellers test new injectors, and new injectors are all over the map, been there done that.... get him to pop them to 2000PSI, will give you room to grow....:thumb::thumb:

not allowed to post links, but we can post a screen-shot of them....
 

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I'm looking at Badger as my first choice but can also go with Leroy, Kennedy or Pensacola. Any suggestions? Thanks everyone
I have read a lot of horror stories about Pensacola. Given your location, I'd avoid taking any chances as just go straight to Badger. They are not only reliable, they ship fast. And if you need something special, you can call them and work it out.
 

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Fred at Badger Diesel, is a one man show. How quickly things can be shipped out, really depends on how much he has on the go. Always, we suggest to contact him (we prefer telephone) and find out his scheduling. We have been dealing with him pretty steady for five or six years now, have never seen a better product from any other shop. But would not say he is fast. As of yet, has never even moved us to to front of the line.

We have visited/dealt with every pump shop for a 300mile radius......still Fred is our go to guy......J&J.
 

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Discussion Starter · #258 ·
Hey everyone. I put on the new injectors. The engine sounds a little better. Smoke cleared up once it warmed up but still smoking. I messed around with timing all the way from end to end of the adjustment range.
Full-retard. Pump bottomed out to passenger side. Only started with glows, pressing the gas pedal all the way down. Then ran and smoked like hell. No stall with advance lever test. Just idled worse and really uneven.
Pump lined up with timing case line. Same as full-retard but slightly easier to start. Advance lever test didn't change anything.
Pump half way advanced between lined up and full advance. Starts right up without glows. Advance lever test shows a very slight hessitation but not stumble. Almost like running it with the lift pump turned off.
Full-advance. Pump bottomed out towards driver side. Easy start, high idle. Advance lever had really made not much difference. Smoke cleared a lot.
Taking it for a drive today up in the hills. Thanks a lot everyone
 

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Congratulations Juan. Sounds like you're honing in on it. Thanks for the synopsis of events. I've never played with my advance, cause #1- I wasn't sure how to do it, (direction wise), #2- didn't want to worsen my fuel mileage. Mine doesn't smoke at all at idle, but will blow some crap under a medium throttle/load (or more). Seeing you've described your results from full advance, and everything in between, it gives me a better idea of what to expect. I don't look fwd to trying to access the lower mount bolts on the IP, but might give it a try....(in the future). Mine almost always needs glo-plugs to start, even in the summer weather, if it sits more than 5-10 mins. after warm up. Thanks for posting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #260 ·
Hola Joe. Any regular 15mm wrench reaches the IP bolts with the crown end. No need for special tools or anything.
Drove the truck a lot yesterday with the IP bottomed out towards the driver side. Advance lever does nothing.
Starts right up cold with a little glows. Starts hot just bumping the key no glows.
Smoke is absolutely insane cold.
Once it warms up after like 20 minutes of driving the smoke clears up a lot. Still not clear though. Prius drivers still frown.
No blowby hot or cold.
I still have to fix the brakes and battery drain so it's not going to inspection yet anyway. It has to pass an emissions test to get updated tags. Less stringent for the model year but still should be reasonable.
I guess my question is how clear does the smoke have to be? Should it be cristal clear or is that unrealistic?
 
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