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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone happy new year 2016! I am trying to take the head off of my engine but I've had a zzero percent success rate so far. It's stuck and won't come off. All the headbolts are out. Should I line up a chisel between the head and block and hit it with a sledge hammer? I am afraid to damage the sealing surfaces or break the cast. What am I doing wrong?
 

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Ex- 6BT Square Body Man
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I'd be leery of using a chisel, is there anywhere you could pry with a 2x4 on the intake side.
 

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first triple check for hidden bolts-and even the hardware for things like power steering/alternator brackets.

and I would use a rubber mallet hitting the head on all sides, the vibrations should be enough to help it break free
 

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heads and block are set up on the front and rear lower corners to accept a screw driver, or small chisel to help lift them..... how many head bolts did you remove per side?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Right head: head gasket had no apparent breaks or leaks. There is a slight ridge where the pistons top out. I can definitely catch a nail on it. Barely visible cracks between valves and cracked precups in front and rear pistons. Valvetrain looks good. All lifter tips have a shiny mirror surface. Pistons are not very tight against the cylinder walls. Hop I dont need new one$.
It looks like the HG was not the right one for this truck. The coolant passages look like the were cut out poorly with a flathead screedriver or weak knife. Each coolant passage was just a poke in the HG material. No wonder this thing was overheating. Coolant flow is severly restricted.
thanks for any advice, thoughts, comments I really appreciate it. Time for the next head
 

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Believe it or not those lil holes are all that's there to flow the coolant, they are designed that way, don't open them up any more.
 

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R.I.P. Sam
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Pistons are not very tight against the cylinder walls. Hop I dont need new one$.
thanks for any advice, thoughts, comments I really appreciate it. Time for the next head
Pics. Pics ... :coolnana:
The pistons shouldn't be tight, the rings should, if they feel sloppy, the rings maybe froze up.
But its all guess work without visual aid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Net down will only let me get one low def phone image up at time. I don't know big. Coolant holes you can see are blocked from a strange flaky crispy growth. Greatest guess I could think of is head gasket repair fluid poured in. Coolant flow severly obstructed.
 

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R.I.P. Sam
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rusty calcium from tap water. Fairly normal, same stuff that plugs up your rad
 
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And that's why I only use distilled water from the store to mix with antifreeze....
 

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And stops corrosion....
 

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Because I live near Frost proof FL not in it:hehe:
 

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It is also a lubricant for the water pump :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I really feel like I opened up a can of worms with this engine. Taking off the heads raised more questions than answers. I should have measured the compression BEFORE taking off the heads. Engine blows clouds of blue smoke and burns oil like a two stroke chainsaw.
How do I know if the valves are good? (seals, guides)
Should I bring the complete heads to a machine $hop and get them checked out?
 

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I would if you have the money
 
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