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I am building a project truck and am thinking of putting a 1982 6.2L Diesel in it. I have almost no experience with diesels and is this a good idea? or should I just stick with a big block gas motor? is the 6.2L a good engine to begin with and what kind of mods are available and recomended?


Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and information.
 

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Jeffery, I have an 84 6.2 I plan on putting into a project truck too. These engines are not power houses off the line. However once in their rpm range they do OK. They are real fuel mizers and with proper care they will live a long time. My 84 has 227K on it, starts and runs great. Mike
 

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The '82 6.2L block is considered to be the strongest for upgrading, due to the high nickel content.


Balanced, with 18:1 marine pistons, marine Inj Pump, hi-pop injectors, late 6.5L heads, and turbocharged via Banks, or the GM turbo setup, you can get an honest 300 Bud Draft Horse power, 500 lbs-ft torque, all at less than 4000rpm, torque around 2000rpm.


And, if you can keep your right foot out of it, you can knock back 20mpg with an od trans, proper gearing.


Stock off showroom floor, 1/2ton swb pickup, 700R4, 3-series gears returned 27mpg all day long, back in '80s. I still hear of a few of those early '80s trucks doing that, today.


I'd say go for it.
 

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Find a 6.2 truck\Suburban\Blazer and duplicate that configuration in the project truck, including the Bendix Hydro-boost system, and remember - the 6.2 is way heavier than a 454 big block.


Best to find a donor truck for required items, where they're all in one spot.Edited by: gmctd
 

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gmctd said:
the 6.2 is way heavier than a 454 big block.
Really?

How much?

I'm not doubting you, but I wasn't aware of it being all that much heavier.

I've handled both out of vehicle, and really didn't get that feeling.
 

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No actual figures, but judging from increased angle of my jib boom, and the lower rpm on the 2500lb 12v winch cablelift, I'd say at least 200lbs. Add the big starter and the flywheel\clutch assembly, and???


My Superlift K3500 3.5" lift 6-pak front springs lost their arch over 6 month period.


Later - got to thinking about this. Turns out it was the 6.5LTD engine, complete with turbo and accessories, that left the heavy impression in my memory.





6.2L - don't remember, cannot recall.Edited by: gmctd
 

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The tanks are identical - just make sure it's empty, and replace the rubber hoses.


They've likely been damaged by gas-ohol.


The in-tank pump is not advisable - it is around 14psi for the FI system. Required is a 4-7psi external pump, available most any parts house.


Should be mounted on the frame rail between the tank and the engine, about where the seats are.


May be a fuel filter already there; if so, mount it between the filter and the engine.


Also will require the main Diesel fuel filter, usually found on the passenger-side firewall.
 

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gmctd. the 6.2 is only 60lbs heavier than a big block. i know for fact, weighed them before. long as he has a suspension that will hold a big block a 6.2 should be no problem.


brian.
 

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82 6.2 sould have its own lift pump on it so you can ditch the inaccessable in-tank one. You can also clean up all the stupid hoses for charcoal canister/etc as diesel does not offgas like gas. If you put the 6.2 in, especially if you do not have an overdrive tranny, gear it taller than a gasser is. The 6.2 is a gutless wonder, but will last a long long time, and give way better fuel economy than a 454 would. They are very dependable too. Learn whichever glowplug setup you utilize inside and out, and get TWO truck group 31 STUD batteries, not the post kind, and use atleast #2 (2guage), preferably 2/0 (00 Gauge). Do these two things and you will not have the no start/hard start probs many people have. A 6.2, even when cold outside, should fire right up, not sit there and crank a bit first.
 

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hey gmctd,


i have a 6.2 from an 86 bub and i want to drop that in my 90 burb. my question to you is do you think i would be able to do all those mods like you mentioned for an 82 (minus the turbo) and not worry bout the block? i think the 6.2 is from a half ton burb if that helps. thanks for any info.
 

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I couldn't imagine not having the turbo if it were an option. You build it right (18-19:1 compression) and it will last just as long turbo-driven as n/a with mo' fun along the way.
 

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The only thing bout the turbo is the $$$ to get one, my main question is will that block hold up to the power because it does not have the high nickel concentrate? i really don't want to put the money into the engine and then have it take a s**t on me. thanks again for the info, i love diesel's but still a little new to customizing them.
 

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I'm seeing $150 gm3-5 turbos and $300 gm-8 turbos on www.car-parts.com , the truck's turbo side exhaust is $50-100 USD. Aftermarket downpipe/crossover $110. When it needs a fresh head's, rebuild it with 19:1 pistons. Intercoolers are running $200-300. It only gets better from there and you don't have to do it all at once.
 

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I am looking into this, and started thinking, what kind of mpg would I be getting with this engine. The truck is a 4X4 and has 3.73s behind it. Any insight would be appreciated.
 

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You will get ~25 mpg+ n/a and a little less with the turbo, intercooling aids efficency a few MPG.
 

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I personally would not do any mods to your engine unless you want to spend thousands of dollars. Some of the engines get cracks in the main bearing block area and one of those shouldn't be rebuilt. I have also heard of head gaskets blowing from use of turbos since the 6.2L engines already have a 21 to 1 compression ratio!!!


The mods that I did on my 1984 6.2L engine were to convert it to the heavy duty configuration. The heavy duty engine did not have the EGR or the butterfly in the left exhaust manifold. It also had solid intake manifold gaskets so the exhaust gases wouldn't crossfeed thru the intake manifold from each exhaust manifold. When my injection pump failed then I installed the heavy duty injection pump which then made my engine into the heavy duty configuration.


Later I had a muffler shop install a balance pipe between my dual exhaust pipes which stopped me from having to downshift when climbing steep mountain grades. I have a manual trans. and I always have my high and heavy Bigfoot camper on it which puts my gross weight at 10,000 lbs.


I would also change out the rear main rope oil seal with the two piece rubber seal before you install the engine in your truck!!!!! Might as well change out the front seal too as well as put on a new waterpump.
 

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gmctd-


how do you identify the '82 high nickel blocks? what #'s do you need to look for? what does the two piece seal mean and why is it a bad thing?
 

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2 piece rear main oil seal is a good thing, not bad. The rope seal that GM put in the 6.2L was technology used prior to WW II. They are difficult to get around the crankshaft and block journal and they don't provide the best seal. The 2 piece seals are much easier to install and provide an excellent seal , but you need to follow instructions and be careful. The seal was a Fel-Pro BS 40529 for 1982-1991 6.2L engines.


1982/1983 heads are notorious for cracking. Most people put 6.5L heads on 6.2L when they have to be replaced due to cracks. The 1984 and above heads were improved so they don't have the crack problems, abuse might still crack them.Edited by: cougarjohn
 
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