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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys i need some ideas.
I went out to start my truck up since its cold here in michigan.
Started it up about 5 minutes before i left work. went to get back in my truck to leave work and my oil presure was at zero and the ip said oil low or something like that. check engine light was not on.

Shut the truck down and poped the hood to check the oil.
Oil level was good alittle low but nothing to bring zero oil presure.

Had the truck towed back to my house and its dead sitting in front of my house.

I knoticed that it started making a slaping sound, im guesing this is from no oil.

The motor is a 2004 6.0 with 65,000 miles and no warrenty.

Im a poor college student so anything that i can do my self i will.

After a $70.00 tow bill im not a happy camper that my chevy left me stranded.

At first thought, I thaught oil pump because of no oil pressure.
The tow truck driver said these trucks should have some sort of module in them that controls the oil pump.

Im just trying to get ideas on where to start with out going to a dealer.

Thanks for your ideas

Carl
 

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it's a common problem the check valve sticks in the oil pump. unfortunatly the only resolution is to replace the pump. and no there is no such module that controls the pump. the good news is that the 6.0 is virtually bulletproof so the brief time you ran without oil pressure probobly didn't damage it further. hope this helps
 

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I too would lean toward a pump issue. You have oil, but obviously it wasn't circulating. Sorry to hear it.
 

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How cold was it? Could be oil was to thick but that would take a REALLY cold day.

When you say it wont start are you saying it wont turn over, (battery dead or seized engine) or it turns over but wont fire (no spark and or fuel)

My guess is 6 hours labor plus about $100.00 in parts. While they are in there they should pull a main brg and rod brg. cap and have a look. Good luck I'll check back in an hour or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It starts, Runs and moves on its own power.

Its not geting oil to the rockers, Their chattering pertty good.
Im leaning towards a oil pump issue. Wont have the money to take it in untill the 9th of feb so it will sit untill then.

If its going to be under $500 or so I can handle it this friday and it will be heading to the service department on saturday.

I just hope i didnt do that much damage if any by starting it back up.

Carl
 

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I would avoid running it until it is fixed. Is thing something that you and your buddies can do on a weekend?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
more than likley yes. Its just something that I have never done. To add to the problem I cant get it in my garage because of the length of the truck.

What would even be all involved in replacing the oil pump?
What supplies would I need besides the pump?

I guess all in all i Could replace the pump and sending unit and still be ahead of the game because i wouldnt be charging myself labor.

Its just cold here in michigan!!!

If i could get my hands on a service manual i know i could do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just called a place, he gave me a rough estimate of 800 to 1200 to repair it,
said the oil pump is driven off the main crank and that its alot of work.

Looks like it will be sitting for awhile.

Like a rock my ***
 

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Y2K4SilveradoHD;1562132; said:
What would even be all involved in replacing the oil pump?
What supplies would I need besides the pump?
I've never actually done this on a 6.0, so you can't quite take this to the bank, but they're all very similar. You'd have to pull the oil pan, replace the pump, and put the oil pan back with a new gasket.

I'd bet you and your buddies could handle this no problem. Someone'll chime in here and verify whether there's anything else, but if there is, it'll be fairly minor. This is basically all labor, except for the pump itself.

Good luck with it. :thumb:
 

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Meathead, I guess you haven't seen the insides of these newer engines. It not the good 'ol small block anymore. The oil pan does need to come off, plus everthing on the front of the engine to get to the timing chain cover so you can access the oil pump that is attached to the crank at the snout. Then all covers have to be aligned in their proper position for installation or you will have an oil leak. It's not the most fun in the world.
 

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Ive done this and its not that hard pull all the accesories off the front of the engine.Remove the bolt in the niddle of the crank pulley Get a very large 3 jaw puller and pull the pulley off the crank the bolt will need to be replaced pull the timing cover bolts and the cover there are 4 blots that hold the oil pump in place the oil pump is the flat thing that has a hole in it where the crank goes through it and is mounted in front of the timing chain. now very carefully remove the bolt that holds the oil pickup tube to the pump and DO NOT DROP IT IN THE OIL PAN now you can install the new pump and put it back together. Gm calls for an alignment tool to install the timing cove but it can be succesfully done without it if you are very careful. watch the seal on the crankshaft and get it even all the way around and it wont leak. You will need a new timing cover gasket and a gasket for crank hole in the cover and a new crank pulley tourqe to yeild bolt. take your time and this is all assuming you have a fairly good mechanical abilty.
 

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Rttoys;1562341; said:
Meathead, I guess you haven't seen the insides of these newer engines. It not the good 'ol small block anymore. The oil pan does need to come off, plus everthing on the front of the engine to get to the timing chain cover so you can access the oil pump that is attached to the crank at the snout. Then all covers have to be aligned in their proper position for installation or you will have an oil leak. It's not the most fun in the world.
:think: I thought I did mention removing the pan. You're right, though, I didn't know he'd have to remove all the accessories.

Just tryin' to help out a bit, :confuzeld poor fella was soundin' desperate.
 

· Commissioner Gordon
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Ya, we've talked, it can be done, just takes time.

It's a coin toss on the oil pan. I'd (and the service manual says) pull it, to be safe, but I'm sure it could be done without pulling it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well I broke down and took it to the dealership,Thursday. My bad luck dosnt end here though. My father was following the tow truck driver and myself and got in a pretty bad accident. His 2002 avalanche has 9500 of damage. The ford that hit him was totaled.

Im now driving a 2004 impalla untill my truck gets done, thanks to the nice people at my dealer.

Family has been dealing with them for the last 7 or so years.

I did get a rough estimate, if it is the oil pump, 1200.00

I should know the outcome today or tomrrow.

Thanks for the help guys.

I just dont see this hapening on a truck with 65000 miles thats babied.

budy keeps harassing me that i shoulda bought a dmax......
 

· Commissioner Gordon
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:( Geezzzzz, what else can go wrong. Tomorrow is a new day:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well The dealership called me,
My truck is fixed. They asked me when the last time I changed my oil was.... I told them just about 10,000 miles ago. I explained that i run amsoil full synthetic and it was due for an oil change.
They then procided to tell me My oil was sludge and that my oil filter was pluged.

I find this hard to believe since Ive been runing amsoil for a very long time.

They saved me my oil filter because the amsoil rep that my father works with wants to see it.

I just cant see this... Ive ran my oil to 15 - 20 thousand miles before with filter changes and have never seen this.

Who knows... Now no amsoil bashing.

Just glad it was a 130 dollar bill rather than a 1200 dollar bill.

Going to pick it up after work and then back to home to rechange the oil, as the teck couldnt read the write up report that i run synthetic oil. He put regular dino oil back in it.

Carl
 

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Y2K4SilveradoHD;1573469; said:
Well The dealership called me,
My truck is fixed. They asked me when the last time I changed my oil was.... I told them just about 10,000 miles ago. I explained that i run amsoil full synthetic and it was due for an oil change.
They then procided to tell me My oil was sludge and that my oil filter was pluged.

I find this hard to believe since Ive been runing amsoil for a very long time.

They saved me my oil filter because the amsoil rep that my father works with wants to see it.

I just cant see this... Ive ran my oil to 15 - 20 thousand miles before with filter changes and have never seen this.

Who knows... Now no amsoil bashing.

Just glad it was a 130 dollar bill rather than a 1200 dollar bill.

Going to pick it up after work and then back to home to rechange the oil, as the teck couldnt read the write up report that i run synthetic oil. He put regular dino oil back in it.

Carl
I have 89000 on my 02 Avalanche 5.3. It has had Mobil 1 since 45 mi on odometer. I WILL NEVER LET IT GO MORE THAN 5000 miles on an oil change no matter what the cost or the "studies" show just for that reason. I dont like breakdowns, especially those that could have been prevented. Looks like a good lesson for ya, as I have seen that more than once. Kinda looks like the "ROCK" was improperly maintained. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
How can you say that when you have no idea in hell how I maintain my truck?

With out seeing the sluge in the oil I cant even say for my self what caused my problems. Im just going off of what the dealer told me.


floriduramax1;1573500; said:
Kinda looks like the "ROCK" was improperly maintained.
 
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