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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can I get your advice please???

I have a 2003 Silverado Duramax CC 4X4 with about 320,000 km (200,000 miles) and 8,000 hours. I have had it since new. The steering box broke and was replaced under warranty by the dealer when it was a year old. Over it's life the truck developed a few small leaks (attracting dirt) which I was ignoring. Then it progressed to a detectable weep at the hydroboost and on the pressure hoses. It eventually became a leak which required occasional top ups. Last fall it I was out in the bush with it and it leaked down enough that the power steering failed and the pump started howling before I could get to a service station and buy oil.

In December / January I decided to deal with it all at once. I replaced all three hoses, the power steering pump, and the hydro boost. The only thing not changed was the steering box. I used a Cardone pump from rock auto. Since everything was new I didn't flush anything. I just filled it up sparked it up and turned the the wheels left and right to prime.

The pump was too loud and too weak right out of the box and only got worse with time. In February I replaced the pump with a warranty pump from Cardone and this time I primed the system with the truck on stands and no resistance on the steering pump. I thought maybe it would protect the pump if the pump never ran "dry".

So the second Cardone pump lasted a little longer but it has gotten progressively more and more weak and noisy. It needs to be replaced again. The power steering pump howls and shudders both with brake pressure and with power steering demand.

I feel like the Cardone Pump has to be the problem and I am considering putting in an AC Delco pump this time. I just don't want to do this job again!!!

Is there anything else I should be considering? Could the rebuilt hydroboost be causing the issue???
Should I just change the pump and stop worrying?

I do all my own work and I am competent with complex jobs but this is my first power steering work.


Thanks in advance for your advice!
 

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2007 Klassic CCSB 2500HD. Six-gun w/speedloader, iDash, and EFILive.
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Thank you for your detailed write-up. For all that hard work I'll pause my TV show and put off grabbing another slice until I get this out. The bottom line is that most of the pumps for these trucks are absolute dog s***. Even the rebuilt GM ones. I have yet to find anybody who had a reliable solution. Redhead makes some stuff, and sometimes it works okay. Sometimes not..

If you dig around on here within the last year somebody put together a whole compilation of information about the gearboxes and the different options as far as they're concerned. Apparently there's an 8-bolt option instead of a six bolt option or some something or other.

If you get in the way back machine, I replaced my pump with a racing pump so it would provide more pressure for the steering and the braking. And it has worked out very well. You just have to understand that when you put hydraulic fluid under pressure it generates heat, so you absolutely have to put an auxiliary cooler on it. This pump makes no noise. Unless you're driving a Ford yours should not either...

Before you go to all the trouble of replacing it, you might try doing a proper system flush using the hoot method, which basically has you put the front end up on jacks, put the return line and a jug, and then turn the string and pump the brakes gently while adding brand new fluid until you get brand new fluid coming out of the return line. I've actually had really good luck with this.

You might also consider changing whatever fluid you're using. I've tried expensive purple stuff, and right now I'm rolling with the O'Reilly synthetic that I found with convenience on the corner. Seems to do just fine.

I know you know this but I'm just going to throw it out there anyway: hydraulic pumps rely on fluid to prevent metal on metal contact. If they get low or run out of fluid, it will ruin them. Which is what you said happened with your first one. Just going to put that out there for when my son reads this thread...

I suppose that there is an ever so slight chance that you had contaminants in the system from when your first pump died. If so they could have caused issues... I guess. Every aircraft I've ever flown has had at least 3,000 PSI pumps. Never had issues with contaminants, only water.. unless you cavitate the pump.

I'm going to go with you getting two bad pumps. Please don't buy a third :)

If you really want I can dig back through and find the one that I got, but that was some time back, like in 2008. Pretty sure I posted pictures and whatnot on here.

So to wrap up, I think you've gotten two crappy pumps. I would suggest that you get a good one and then flush the entire system using the Hoot method which provides almost no resistance.

R
 
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2005 2500hd 4x4 stock
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I also highly agree with the above post, this is what I do to all my rigs, I change my power steering and brake fluid every 2 years. I also run synthetic fluid and a cooler on my pump. I would flush the system even if you change the pump.
 

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2005 2500hd 4x4 stock
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Thank you for your detailed write-up. For all that hard work I'll pause my TV show and put off grabbing another slice until I get this out. The bottom line is that most of the pumps for these trucks are absolute dog s***. Even the rebuilt GM ones. I have yet to find anybody who had a reliable solution. Redhead makes some stuff, and sometimes it works okay. Sometimes not..

If you dig around on here within the last year somebody put together a whole compilation of information about the gearboxes and the different options as far as they're concerned. Apparently there's an 8-bolt option instead of a six bolt option or some something or other.

If you get in the way back machine, I replaced my pump with a racing pump so it would provide more pressure for the steering and the braking. And it has worked out very well. You just have to understand that when you put hydraulic fluid under pressure it generates heat, so you absolutely have to put an auxiliary cooler on it. This pump makes no noise. Unless you're driving a Ford yours should not either...

Before you go to all the trouble of replacing it, you might try doing a proper system flush using the hoot method, which basically has you put the front end up on jacks, put the return line and a Every aircraft I've ever flown has had at least 3,000 PSI pumps. Never had issues with contaminants, only water.. unless you cavitate the pump
Thank you for your detailed write-up. For all that hard work I'll pause my TV show and put off grabbing another slice until I get this out. The bottom line is that most of the pumps for these trucks are absolute dog s***. Even the rebuilt GM ones. I have yet to find anybody who had a reliable solution. Redhead makes some stuff, and sometimes it works okay. Sometimes not..

If you dig around on here within the last year somebody put together a whole compilation of information about the gearboxes and the different options as far as they're concerned. Apparently there's an 8-bolt option instead of a six bolt option or some something or other.

If you get in the way back machine, I replaced my pump with a racing pump so it would provide more pressure for the steering and the braking. And it has worked out very well. You just have to understand that when you put hydraulic fluid under pressure it generates heat, so you absolutely have to put an auxiliary cooler on it. This pump makes no noise. Unless you're driving a Ford yours should not either...

Before you go to all the trouble of replacing it, you might try doing a proper system flush using the hoot method, which basically has you put the front end up on jacks, put the return line and a jug, and then turn the string and pump the brakes gently while adding brand new fluid until you get brand new fluid coming out of the return line. I've actually had really good luck with this.

You might also consider changing whatever fluid you're using. I've tried expensive purple stuff, and right now I'm rolling with the O'Reilly synthetic that I found with convenience on the corner. Seems to do just fine.

I know you know this but I'm just going to throw it out there anyway: hydraulic pumps rely on fluid to prevent metal on metal contact. If they get low or run out of fluid, it will ruin them. Which is what you said happened with your first one. Just going to put that out there for when my son reads this thread...

I suppose that there is an ever so slight chance that you had contaminants in the system from when your first pump died. If so they could have caused issues... I guess. Every aircraft I've ever flown has had at least 3,000 PSI pumps. Never had issues with contaminants, only water.. unless you cavitate the pump.

I'm going to go with you getting two bad pumps. Please don't buy a third :)

If you really want I can dig back through and find the one that I got, but that was some time back, like in 2008. Pretty sure I posted pictures and whatnot on here.

So to wrap up, I think you've gotten two crappy pumps. I would suggest that you get a good one and then flush the entire system using the Hoot method which provides almost no resistance.

R
We’re your aircraft on a Hydraulic contamination program?
 

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2007 Klassic CCSB 2500HD. Six-gun w/speedloader, iDash, and EFILive.
Joined
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1,101 Posts
We’re your aircraft on a Hydraulic contamination program?
Yes, they did weekly samples from what I remember. Mondays. And any time the system was 'open'
 

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2007 Klassic CCSB 2500HD. Six-gun w/speedloader, iDash, and EFILive.
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1,101 Posts
This should get you to the thread about the PSC pump, and I fixed the link so that it works in 2022. Mad props to @Stephen Watson for correcting me about PSC going out of business.



R


Oh, and I think WE need to do this upgrade. I hear it's like magic, which ... my brakes are NOT.

 

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Edit: PSC seems to have gone out of business
PSC is not out of business at all. We deal with them daily, they're doing better than ever.
 
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2007 Klassic CCSB 2500HD. Six-gun w/speedloader, iDash, and EFILive.
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PSC is not out of business at all. We deal with them daily, they're doing better than ever.
Thank you for that Dr Watson :). Never been so happy to be wrong. I tried their old web address that I had from my old post and it was out of service and up for purchase. Looks like I have some fixing to do..

Turns out they got all grown up and actually got an SSL certificate. So it's now https vice http. Fixed!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the help! Yesterday I flushed the oil and replaced with Lucas power steering fluid with conditioner. My parts counter guy recalled a similar issue which was resolved on installing Lucas. Hu further advised that he used to work at GM and recalled a service bulletin that called for the use of Lucas to quiet shudder. I also installed an edelmen power steering fluid filter.

I was disturbed to see fine gold colored particulate in the waste oil. It looked like fine brass or bronze???

This new pump and all new lines has maybe 5,000 kilometes on it and should have been clean in my opinion?

Thanks again and I will keep you posted.
 
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