I was looking for peoples opinions on lift kits for an 2003 GMC 2500HD Crewcab 4X4. I don't want to go to high and I don't want it to ride like sh*t most people I know with lift kits there trucks never handle the same after there lifted. Also what size tires I have 33,s now and I tweaked the torsion bars to level it out but its just no enough.
2500 HD lift kit
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Well it looks like Stretch has a pretty good lift job on his avatar.
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(page 3 of the post "let's see what yer ride looks like")
zipEdited by: Zip from Tenn
(page 3 of the post "let's see what yer ride looks like")
zipEdited by: Zip from Tenn
I'm very pleased with the 4" Ranch and Bilstein 5100 SS shocks (See link in sig). Ride improved dramatically over stock ... is now car like. Of course those real-lift inches aren't cheap. 
However over half of my cost was the wheels.
I might add ... I can still park it in my garage.
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Edited by: tophog
However over half of my cost was the wheels. I might add ... I can still park it in my garage.
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my buddy has an 02 w/ rancho 4" lift. it rides very nice i must say.
I am a big fan of RCD lifts myself, with Rancho a close 2nd. I would not really consider any other lift in the 6" and lower range. The main difference between the Rancho and RCD is the crossmember for the front differential. Rancho uses a one piece crossmember and RCD uses a two piece crossmember. The two piece crossmember allow the frame to flex when placed under pressure (articulation situations).
Rumor has it that the designer of RCD used to be the top designed for Rancho, however Rancho would not let him do what he wanted, hence RCD was started.
In actual lift difference, RCD will put the truck about 1" or 1.5" higher than the Rancho kit. Regardless of what kit is used, the Bilstein shocks are the way to go, they come standard with the RCD kit. Even if you opt for the Rancho kit, get the Bilstein shocks. Do not get the Rancho shocks (5000, 9000, etc..), Edelbrock shock, etc....
As far as price is concerned, you should be able to get a RCD kit installed for about $2400. If you shop around, you can probably get one for about $2000-$2200. Also, don't bother doing dual shocks as the Bilstein are specifically engineered for each vehicle (which is one of the reason why they are so good). Rancho uses the same shock and just puts different ends on them for whichever vehicle they are put on.
If you have any more questions or need more info feel free to ask or send me an email.
Rumor has it that the designer of RCD used to be the top designed for Rancho, however Rancho would not let him do what he wanted, hence RCD was started.
In actual lift difference, RCD will put the truck about 1" or 1.5" higher than the Rancho kit. Regardless of what kit is used, the Bilstein shocks are the way to go, they come standard with the RCD kit. Even if you opt for the Rancho kit, get the Bilstein shocks. Do not get the Rancho shocks (5000, 9000, etc..), Edelbrock shock, etc....
As far as price is concerned, you should be able to get a RCD kit installed for about $2400. If you shop around, you can probably get one for about $2000-$2200. Also, don't bother doing dual shocks as the Bilstein are specifically engineered for each vehicle (which is one of the reason why they are so good). Rancho uses the same shock and just puts different ends on them for whichever vehicle they are put on.
If you have any more questions or need more info feel free to ask or send me an email.
Thanks my local shop is trying to talk me into 6" Fabtech but then I have to change my rims and go with 35" tires I can do the whole thing for $3500.00. I think 6" might be to high 4" is better what size tires are they running?
Thanks
Thanks
Lighting thanks for the input do I have to run a bigger wheel they told me with the Fabtech I had to run bigger wheels so I was going to go to a 35" tire. I have stock wheels with 33" tires now I just want it to look clean ride better than stock and not be real noisy from the tires thanks again.
shaydog24 said:
I think with a lift on a 2500 you need to go with 35's, it would look a lot cleaner IMO. Put the lift on with your 33's and if you don't like it, then spring for the 35's. Do not get a Fabtech lift, I don't like them (read: they suck). Here is a pic why, this is a Fabtech on a Avalanche that broke a mellow trail ride.
This is where the torsion bars mount into the crossmember, which ended up snapping...thus the patch job for this guy to get home. I think this aspect of their design in the weak link in their system, there is no reinforcement of the crossmember designed in their kit. The crossmember has a lot of additional torque and such due to the increased height in the truck.
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shaydog24,
I debated this with myself over and over before I proceeded. I read as many posts as I could find and I contacted as many others as I could to get their opinions, all of which was/is extremely valuable. I decided to use a progressive approach, starting by cranking my torsion bars and use 315/70R/17 with chromed H2 Rims and progress from there if I didn't achieve the results of a modest, not too high lift that rode at least as good as stock. My plan was to check out the look and the ride and then go from there. Here is some detail of what I did and a couple pics. I have more pics in my link.
I cranked the torsion bars enough to raise the front 1 3/4". From what I've heard/read 2" is the max we should crank. The front went up 1 3/4" while the back went down 1/2". When I put the 315's on the total height of the front went up 4 1/4" over stock. The truck now its nearly level which was what I wanted. If anything the front looks slightly higher. I had to tie back the Parking Brake cable because it pushes the inner fender toward the tires. I had to tap the sheet metal at the bottom rear of each fender to move the very bottom of the inner fender back about 3/8". I also trimmed the lower air dam 1/4" at the top to 1 1/4" at the bottom and it looks great.
The ride does not appear to be one bit different. Although this is my opinion, more importantly, it's my wife's opinion and she has no reason to embellish. I really love the look and the ride is really fine. Once satisfied with the look/ride, I had a front end alignment. I just returned from a short 400+ mile trip and the ride was excellent.
I was prepared to go to the 4" Rancho lift next but now that I have what I have, I feel no need to go to the additional expense. Just MHO and experience FWIT!
2DAMAX
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I debated this with myself over and over before I proceeded. I read as many posts as I could find and I contacted as many others as I could to get their opinions, all of which was/is extremely valuable. I decided to use a progressive approach, starting by cranking my torsion bars and use 315/70R/17 with chromed H2 Rims and progress from there if I didn't achieve the results of a modest, not too high lift that rode at least as good as stock. My plan was to check out the look and the ride and then go from there. Here is some detail of what I did and a couple pics. I have more pics in my link.
I cranked the torsion bars enough to raise the front 1 3/4". From what I've heard/read 2" is the max we should crank. The front went up 1 3/4" while the back went down 1/2". When I put the 315's on the total height of the front went up 4 1/4" over stock. The truck now its nearly level which was what I wanted. If anything the front looks slightly higher. I had to tie back the Parking Brake cable because it pushes the inner fender toward the tires. I had to tap the sheet metal at the bottom rear of each fender to move the very bottom of the inner fender back about 3/8". I also trimmed the lower air dam 1/4" at the top to 1 1/4" at the bottom and it looks great.
The ride does not appear to be one bit different. Although this is my opinion, more importantly, it's my wife's opinion and she has no reason to embellish. I really love the look and the ride is really fine. Once satisfied with the look/ride, I had a front end alignment. I just returned from a short 400+ mile trip and the ride was excellent.
I was prepared to go to the 4" Rancho lift next but now that I have what I have, I feel no need to go to the additional expense. Just MHO and experience FWIT!
2DAMAX
I did the same as above but instead of cranking the t-bars I put in the green-marked, differently indexed torsion bar keys to get 2" of front end lift, and added 2" rear lift blocks and shackles. Here is the results, same wheels/tires sans chrome treatment.
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Edited by: Camstyn
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