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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am not getting full "power" out of my intagraded brake controller. The trailer brakes are barely working on any trailer when the controller is turned all the way up. Could anyone point me in a direction to figure out what is going on?
 

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Welcome to DieselPlace
Please tell us more about your truck, list any mods.
(y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am not getting full "power" out of my intagraded brake controller. The trailer brakes are barely working on any trailer when the controller is turned all the way up. Could anyone point me in a direction to figure out what is going on?
Thanks for your reply. Mine is completely factory. No mods yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No codes are coming up, trailer connected indicator shows when trailer is connected. I have replaced trailer control relay and control switch assembly.
 

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We don't know what you know about trucks and electronics, so an easy start. Every 12V truck circuit needs power and grounds. It appears you have some power and some grounding, but you need to be sure you have circuits that have no excessive resistance. If you live in salt country, the salt causes corrosion, and corrosion is resistance. You need to check the ground at the trailer connector vs the ground at the battery negative terminal. This is called voltage drop testing and can be done on both the negative wiring and positive wiring. The only tool needed is a voltmeter. Lots of youtube videos about voltage drop testing, South Main Auto is my favorite poster. That's where I would start.

There are 2 electrical devices near the rear axle near the frame and they are the relay and the module. The module has the 'smarts' and the module outputs the power to the brakes. That's the easy explanation. Of course it's much more complex than that. Many people find that replacing the relay fixes their problems, others replace the module, and some replace both. Your problem COULD be there.
 
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Hardyman - Ron Nielson is one of the experts on here. He walked me thru several things when I was having issues.

I was having issues with a "check trailer wiring" message and felt that I didn't have strong brakes. Trailer brakes were serviced and truck was taken to a Chev dealer with everyone pointing a finger that it was truck or trailer. Ron and the other experts were saying trailer. I was running my brake controller at 9. I took the ground off the trailer closest to the plug and shinned up the aluminum and lug. My "check trailer wiring" message has been cut down about 95% and I am now running the controller at 6.5. I have yet to do the same thing with the grounds at the trailer brakes. I venture it will eliminate the problem and might be able to adjust the controller again.

My bet is on the ground connections. Good luck.
 

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Some additional information for you attached. I hope it furthers your understanding of the problem you are addressing.
 

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the trailer mfr's use little tiny wires to the brake magnets, compound that by poor connections, and too many of same and the voltage drop is bad. Check the voltage at the trailer plug, then again at the magnet, see what the difference is. I found a crappy connection at the umbilical cord tie in at the tongue, redid that and works great. And like mentioned check grounds; do same procedure looking for voltage drop/change.
 
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