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02 2500HD LB7
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Well sounds like you have an air leak somewhere then. Are you still on the original fuel lines from the tank?
The cheapest place to start is rebuilding the filter head and replacing the 2 rubber lines that go to it. Even if they are not the problem, the exhaust manifold heat cooks the rubber lines and seals in the head so they are likely on their way out anyway.
 

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Another thing to consider is the plastic accordion draw tube in the tank develops a small split in it and you start sucking air at lower fuel levels. I always consider a 1/2 tank an empty tank and keep it topped off.
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Same thing happened on my LLY and it turned out to be a plugged EGR valve, go figure.
 

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My buddy had a 1/4 tank of fuel and it sucked air when he went around a corner, truck died right there and had to be towed in the middle of rush hour. Also, when you are bleeding the fuel system, good idea to use the schrader valve next to the alternator because it is farther down the line than the fuel filter, starter doesn't have to work as hard.. Schrader is the brass valve with the black cap. DO NOT LOOSE THE CAP, they are not available individually, have to buy a new valve to get the cap.Practically every Duramax owner I know fills up before it gets down to 1/4 tank. Add a boost pump or lift pump if the budget allows, solves a lot of "air in system" issues , also makes bleeding the system easier. On the fuel filter, ONLY use an AC Delco TP3018. The Wix and others are inferior, see the Fuel Filter Shootout on the DF site. Wix has an inferior seal that allows raw unfiltered fuel to bypass the filter when there is a restriction, which sends unfiltered fuel to the injectors, I know this from personal experience, others have posted this as well.
 

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Truck is at about 215K miles. Never had any fuel problems before. I usually keep stanadyne performance diesel additive in it.

Of course this is happening when I'm out of town. My teen son is there and is solid with a wrench so I think we should be able to do some good troubleshooting.

Of course..after it died I find out there have likely been problems for a while, but now it's died and won't start. Sigh.

Today my family took the truck on a couple hour (3 hours total) drive that was mostly interstate. They noticed that it wouldn't go over 65mph. The driver pushed the pedal to the floor trying to accelerate more and it actually started slowing down so they backed off trying to accelerate and made the rest of the trip at 65mph (about an hour an a half). One of my younger ones piped up and said "oh yeah, it's been doing that for a while" (it appears that a while is a couple months)

Anyway, today's driver played around with it some and if you keep the acceleration very slow you could inch up to 70 or 75. (they figured this out on the hour and a half back home)

So they are literally minutes from being back home, pull off the highway and start accelerating on a 30mph speed limit road when it totally and suddenly dies. They were going about 25 mph when it died. It would't start so they used a tow rope to get it pulled into a nearby parking lot.

Fuel level at the time was about 1/8 tank. We can normally get it down well below the E on the gauge with no problems so I doubted it was a level issue. For good measure they put in 10 gallons of fresh diesel and did some bleeding at the fuel filter. Unfortunately it still won't start.

Perhaps some relevant history: Back in May we had the truck bed off when replacing brake lines. I don't remember any problems getting the bed back on or around the fuel tank but some of my kids are suggesting that this problem started soon after that.

I and some others have driven the truck since then and not noticed these so perhaps it was an intermittent problem for a while. No sure.



Best,

NH
Start with the simple. Replace the O rings in the fuel filter housing (primer and housing o rings). Then clear codes and run it.
Had the exact same issue as yourself on my 2006 2500hd LBZ with 264000 miles on it. $13 at advanced auto and good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
So, me being out of town leads these stories to be odd and issues hard to track down. The plan was to swap the fuel filter and dump the old one out in a glass bowl to inspect and see if there was anything in the fuel.

Well...the truck batteries were dead the next morning, there were issues charging them and I wasn't in town to help troubleshoot. Fast forward a week and now I'm back. I took batteries out, charged the individually and looked up my records and figured out they were well past warranty. They charged weird, so I pulled the trigger on two new batteries.

Since the truck had been sitting for a week I figured it would be interesting to see what was up with the primer. I pushed it and it was nice and firm (like I've always felt).

Two new batteries in and it started with just a quick turn of the engine.

So.....??????

Fuel level was at a quarter of a tank. (I do have a 99 suburban with the 6.5 that has problems under 1/4 tank, so familiar with this stuff). The weird thing is we have "always" been able to go under "E" in this 2005 silverado and have never had it do anything weird. (perhaps yet is the real answer)

So...I filled it up and put some stanandyne in it (normally do this) and it's been driving perfectly for a few days.

Fuel filter life is at 80 some percent, so perhaps I'll get those o rings for the fuel filter housing and do the fuel filter swap/inspection...do the o rings and new fuel filter. (yes I always use the AC delco)

I have no doubt that these drivability issues have happened, but I'm frustrated I've never had them happen to me in person...so perhaps I can troubleshoot better.

Anyone with more thoughts or ideas?

I've got another car or two that I need to get running better and then perhaps I'll purposefully run fuel in the 2005 down to E and drive it around some myself (with extra diesel in a can in the truck bed) to see if perhaps low fuel level is now problematic.

Thanks for the help on this

NH
 

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So, me being out of town leads these stories to be odd and issues hard to track down. The plan was to swap the fuel filter and dump the old one out in a glass bowl to inspect and see if there was anything in the fuel.

Well...the truck batteries were dead the next morning, there were issues charging them and I wasn't in town to help troubleshoot. Fast forward a week and now I'm back. I took batteries out, charged the individually and looked up my records and figured out they were well past warranty. They charged weird, so I pulled the trigger on two new batteries.

Since the truck had been sitting for a week I figured it would be interesting to see what was up with the primer. I pushed it and it was nice and firm (like I've always felt).

Two new batteries in and it started with just a quick turn of the engine.

So.....??????

Fuel level was at a quarter of a tank. (I do have a 99 suburban with the 6.5 that has problems under 1/4 tank, so familiar with this stuff). The weird thing is we have "always" been able to go under "E" in this 2005 silverado and have never had it do anything weird. (perhaps yet is the real answer)

So...I filled it up and put some stanandyne in it (normally do this) and it's been driving perfectly for a few days.

Fuel filter life is at 80 some percent, so perhaps I'll get those o rings for the fuel filter housing and do the fuel filter swap/inspection...do the o rings and new fuel filter. (yes I always use the AC delco)

I have no doubt that these drivability issues have happened, but I'm frustrated I've never had them happen to me in person...so perhaps I can troubleshoot better.

Anyone with more thoughts or ideas?

I've got another car or two that I need to get running better and then perhaps I'll purposefully run fuel in the 2005 down to E and drive it around some myself (with extra diesel in a can in the truck bed) to see if perhaps low fuel level is now problematic.

Thanks for the help on this

NH
I'd say so far, so good. I would just keep driving, monitor things and go from there
(y)
 

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I'm with Spoolin'it. Change the two hoses that go into the filter housing. The CP3 high pressure fuel pump is pulling suction on those 15 year old hoses. I ended up buying the OE replacements formed in the correct shape. Not cheap, but did fix an intermittent stalling problem (yet another one). You can install in the driveway with basic tools.
 

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Seems like you need to get the problem to happen so you can do some checking. You mentioned doing brake lines before maybe the fuel lines are getting rusty as well. On my truck it seemed like the return lines rusted out first and those just leak on the ground. Didn't cause any running problems.
 

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Thats why I asked if he was on the original lines. Mine gave out at the metal crimp on the rubber section going to the fuel cooler.
You might not be able to recreate the problem right away or for a long while. When my filter housing acted up it would only lose prime on really hot days and only if I stopped for a very short time and restarted the truck.
I would definately do the rebuild kit and hoses to the filter housing as a starting point and then crawl around the frame and look for wet areas on the fuel lines themselves.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Yeah..that's a really good point about if your brake lines have rotted out (it was one spot under the truck bed) then other metal stuff isn't far behind. I live in MN for a while on a farm, lots of dirt roads.

I like hanging on to my vehicles for a while, so updating those lines is a wise thing for longevity, even if it's not "the" problem at the moment.

Trying to sort out exactly what happened when I was here can be difficult, but the place where it died was just after a turn. So the theory of diesel sloshing to one side and perhaps sucking in air is a high possibility.

Soon after that about 5 or more gallons of diesel was added

Thanks

NH
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I've only done a quick search for cost





So...first. Allow me to grumble about cost....but I know doing the preformed is the right thing. Grrrrr

Second...are these the right three to make sure everything on the "supply side" are done correctly and new.

Third...the parts guy at chevy didn't really know about a rebuild kit for the FFM. You can see a o ring that we can get.


It seems a bit unclear if I buy this if I get the housing, a filter and the water sensor for $117. If it all comes together, then this isn't that bad, but if $117 for "just" the FFM, well I'm not sure about that.

If you look in the questions there is a guy talking about a "rebuild kit" there too.

If anyone has links to that, please send.

Appreciate all the help on this.

NH
 

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I've only done a quick search for cost





So...first. Allow me to grumble about cost....but I know doing the preformed is the right thing. Grrrrr

Second...are these the right three to make sure everything on the "supply side" are done correctly and new.

Third...the parts guy at chevy didn't really know about a rebuild kit for the FFM. You can see a o ring that we can get.


It seems a bit unclear if I buy this if I get the housing, a filter and the water sensor for $117. If it all comes together, then this isn't that bad, but if $117 for "just" the FFM, well I'm not sure about that.

If you look in the questions there is a guy talking about a "rebuild kit" there too.

If anyone has links to that, please send.

Appreciate all the help on this.

NH
Check with John over at Kennedy Diesel or
Brent over at Lincoln Diesel Specialties: GM Fuel Filter Housing (2004.5-2013) 2001-2004 w/Modifications
 

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OUUUUCH! GM likes those LLY hoses. All the LB7 filter head and pump rubber hoses cost me around $200. Looks like Lincoln has a kit with all the LLY hoses for the filter and pump for around $309, and has the head rebuild kit too.
 

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Don't know how you can go wrong with this filter housing and a filter for $117. Yes, it does come with the filter and the water drain tap. The Delco filter itself is $45.-$50., so I went with this option to save time. And it's a GM part which I prefer.

 
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