Diesel Place banner

21 - 40 of 79 Posts

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,990 Posts
I'll start there. Going to go cocktail this evening away and get up early to visually inspect every damn inch of fuel system tomorrow - including a rebuild on that guy if I can find a kit local in the AM. Thanks all. Much appreciated.
Make sure you find a rebuild kit that also includes the bleeder screw. The OEM is plastic and known to crack
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
9,676 Posts
Going by just the audio because the video moved away from the engine during crank, it is obviously mechanical. It sounds like either the starter engages and then disengages or there is little to no "engine" being cranked like zero compression ie: bent pushrods.

Turn the key and watch to see if the engine continues to turn over or not. If the engine is still turning there is a major mechanical issue. If the engine stops turning it is a starter drive and/or ring gear issue.

You didn't try a recent ether start did you?
 
  • Like
Reactions: OkDually

·
Registered
2004 GMC Sierra 2500HD (LB7)
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Going by just the audio because the video moved away from the engine during crank, it is obviously mechanical. It sounds like either the starter engages and then disengages or there is little to no "engine" being cranked like zero compression ie: bent pushrods.

Turn the key and watch to see if the engine continues to turn over or not. If the engine is still turning there is a major mechanical issue. If the engine stops turning it is a starter drive and/or ring gear issue.

You didn't try a recent ether start did you?
Indeed, I did. Maybe not enough to give it a good push… I have heard adverse effects from doing so, but I did give a single Misty blast into the turbo horn to see if I could shunt it. It was my understanding that this is a good way to eliminate the fuel system from the equation. No change after and ether blast, but I keep going back to it because honestly, I am terrified to start thinking about a Cam shaft....Diesels I’m new to, Chevy gas I’m old to. But i’ve never had to go past a fly wheel in either.

And I agree it sounds like compression. But again, I do not know the diesel format as well as the trusty old 350 or 5.3 vortec So for the time being, I’m running down everything I am semi-familiar with logically.

and yes; That belt will spin in definitely if I keep the key hammered down...Probably until I burn up the starter or running out of fuel. I’ve got probably 23 gallons Of fuel left to burn out, but only one starter, that’s a day old. Ha ha.
 

·
Registered
2004 GMC Sierra 2500HD (LB7)
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Make sure you find a rebuild kit that also includes the bleeder screw. The OEM is plastic and known to crack
I do have a 4 pack of bleeder screws in the shop. In case I get angry or drunk before tightening.
 

·
Registered
2004 GMC Sierra 2500HD (LB7)
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
Something else I want to mention, just because it does seem mechanical and it’s been bothering me the last few hours… So I took this truck out to the car wash about six hours earlier than I tried starting it to this results. Car wash is closed, so I fired it back up and drove home. Six hours later I tried to start it and I get this. Does it seem likely that a major mechanical issue with her sitting overnight? In my experience that usually occurs while driving. Or after having a romp like hell out of it through mud or ice or snow or Mountain... some other major incident that caused it To happen.

Something just doesn’t feel right that a 70° light whilst sitting in a driveway, would cause a major mechanical blowout.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
9,676 Posts
One thing I have seen numerous times before is people installing the stupid yes I said stupid filter adapters without removing the spring loaded check ball. Often the truck will not have much of any power and it should be obvious, but worth noting. The smartest and most trustworthy guys in the fuel system business recommend running the OE filter whenever practical.

I would remove the adapter and install a quality OE filter especially if you did the adapter install and don't remember taking apart the head to remove the ball and spring. The adapters do not have a provision to push the ball out of place like the filters do.

I have a full day planned today so I'll probably only have email access. I don't do much forum stuff on my phone.
 

·
Registered
2004 GMC Sierra 2500HD (LB7)
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
I really appreciate it sir. I'll dig back in today.
 

·
Registered
2004 GMC Sierra 2500HD (LB7)
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
Hey guys;

Did you another video while cranking. You get a good luook at the works and better audio. If I'm not mistaken;

1)Because it continues to crank, this would rule out Starter, flywheel, camshaft, correct?
2) The FRP on my OBD shows 250 in "on" and just between 5000-7000psi when cranking. That is about 20,000psi shy of needed PSI correct?

I did bypass the Water Seperator, rebuilt the Fuel Filter Housing, I bled the hell out of it and primed it hard. Tried to crank, came back to a soft pump. Repeated this about 5 times and I'm still soft on the plunger. I HAVE HAD the KD Pump disconnected this whole time, so all of this is taking that out of the equation. I might try again later tonight with it plugged back in (power), but I don't see where those low-pressure PSI's are going to help at this stage.

Here's the new vid if you want a closer look/listen. I REALLY appreciate everyone's input here. I owe you guys big time. If I can't come to some type of reasonable home garage conclusion by tonight I'm going to just have to take it in. I'm not stoked about that.

 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,990 Posts
You'll need a scanner that can give live data showing Actual vs Desired fuel pressures to help you determine things better.
If you can find access to a Tech II, even better
 

·
Registered
2004 GMC Sierra 2500HD (LB7)
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
You'll need a scanner that can give live data showing Actual vs Desired fuel pressures to help you determine things better.
If you can find access to a Tech II, even better
Looking for one locally. What a sh*tshow. It's unbelievable to me that I'm the first guy who has ever had this noise, and the Internet in history. (and trust me: I've been to the absolute abyss of internet searches in the past 5 days for a "similar no start.")
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,530 Posts
If you're getting 5000 lb while cranking, that's enough to start but not enough to drive in varying conditions. The noise still sounds like starter noise to me, but as long as the engine is being cranked, that's the important thing for now. Would be nice to know if the cam and crank sensors are posting signals.
 

·
Registered
2004 GMC Sierra 2500HD (LB7)
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
If you're getting 5000 lb while cranking, that's enough to start but not enough to drive in varying conditions. The noise still sounds like starter noise to me, but as long as the engine is being cranked, that's the important thing for now. Would be nice to know if the cam and crank sensors are posting signals.
I can't disagree with you, but it's going. I've checked power, I've reinstalled it twice, and it's cranking. I am just so baffled, and to be honest for work and sanity sake I may have to go just give up and let ashop have it. I've never taken a vehicle to a shop. Ever. GMs, Toyotas, BMW'S. Ive never had one die on me, or had someone else's hands in it i'm really frustrated at facing my first jaunt.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,990 Posts
If you're getting 5000 lb while cranking, that's enough to start but not enough to drive in varying conditions. The noise still sounds like starter noise to me, but as long as the engine is being cranked, that's the important thing for now. Would be nice to know if the cam and crank sensors are posting signals.
If you listen to the first second or two of the video the starter catches and cranks the motor about half a turn then all you hear is starter motor noise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,530 Posts
I can't disagree with you, but it's going. I've checked power, I've reinstalled it twice, and it's cranking. I am just so baffled, and to be honest for work and sanity sake I may have to go just give up and let ashop have it. I've never taken a vehicle to a shop. Ever. GMs, Toyotas, BMW'S. Ive never had one die on me, or had someone else's hands in it i'm really frustrated at facing my first jaunt.
I understand completely. I only go to a shop when I'm stuck somewhere or the tools to do the job are just too expensive. After I get the truck back, I check to make sure they did the job correctly. But sometimes you just need help and I hope yours is competent and actually fixes the problem.

If you listen to the first second or two of the video the starter catches and cranks the motor about half a turn then all you hear is starter motor noise.
That's what I hear, except that I can still see the serpentine belt turning. Funny sounding starter, like one of the old MOPAR gear reduction starters used on 426's.
 
  • Like
Reactions: OkDually

·
Registered
2004 GMC Sierra 2500HD (LB7)
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
I understand completely. I only go to a shop when I'm stuck somewhere or the tools to do the job are just too expensive. After I get the truck back, I check to make sure they did the job correctly. But sometimes you just need help and I hope yours is competent and actually fixes the problem.
I'll be trusting a landscaper friend who has a fleet of GM and Ford diesels that constantly need servicing and repair. The shop he suggested does have the best reviews and the owner used to work for an import mechanic friend of mine... Being that I never take vehicles to shops, it's about as much as I can go off of.

That's what I hear, except that I can still see the serpentine belt turning. Funny sounding starter, like one of the old MOPAR gear reduction starters used on 426's.
That's the mystery to me. I completely agree it sounds like a starter, it's why I replaced it straight away. I was actually quite surprised to find the same sound before and after.

But in order for that belt to continue spinning indefinitely, albeit quite slow, something has to be engaging the cam, and thus the flywheel. Unless I've gone completely mental... The only mechanism there that can do that is a properly engaged starter.

Again: power could be a concern but I've checked at the solenoid draw line. I suppose I could terminal up while it's connected. As long as the key is cranked it should be pulling most of my available voltage, yes? I mean, I guess it's not unreasonable to think that perhaps I bought a bad starter out of the gate. I have done it before. My 2001 Silverado went through three before I finally bought the most expensive one I can find at the time locally and never had the problem again. Ugh. I don't want to do that job again, but maybe just before taking it down, I'll do so.
 

·
Registered
2004 GMC Sierra 2500HD (LB7)
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
Funny sounding starter, like one of the old MOPAR gear reduction starters used on 426's.
Interestingly....and maybe I'm just grasping at straws here...but I was just explaining to my wife how your key turn turns into compression. She happened to say "oh, like when you turn your key when your car is already running."

So two things:
First; I'd better check her flywheel condition soon, haha.
Second; she's right. That's eerily similar to that sound you get when you try to engage a starter that needs no engaging. Interesting.

So ponder this: could this be as simple as having sufficient power to perform the task as long as I'm providing power...but...the starter gear only has enough "umph" to get that first crank...and the rest of the time is just jamming up against a flywheel that's already moving too quickly to "re-engage.".

Or am I just making sh*t up now.
 

·
Registered
2004 GMC Sierra 2500HD (LB7)
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #37
So I've bitten the bullet and ordered a OE Hitachi (ACDelco) starter. I'll swap that in, take the one I just bought back, give the batteries a good full charge and try it again. Coincidentally; I only went with the one I went with because I was in a hurry to get back on the road they did not have an AC Delco in stock locally. I'm going to absolutely lose it if that does the trick. The more I read about the early generation starters, the more I'm convinced I could have put one in that simply isn't doing the trick.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
954 Posts
That’s a broken camshaft gear no compression issue if I ever heard one.pull your glow plugs and check for compression.im not sure the exact issue but I can tell there is no compression.are you low on coolant or coolant In the oil?
 

·
Registered
2004 GMC Sierra 2500HD (LB7)
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
That’s a broken camshaft gear no compression issue if I ever heard one.pull your glow plugs and check for compression.im not sure the exact issue but I can tell there is no compression.are you low on coolant or coolant In the oil?
Hey Super - coolant level looks good, and upon upper inspection and draining a bit out below: looks good (it was part of my maintenance at beginning of last month) Oil was also changed out on 4/15, but I let it loose and replaced filter + 10 quarts again when this started just to check. So far as I can see: all fluids supplies are carrying only their own fluids.

If I pull the belt and give the crank a good "shimmy" left-to-right, up-to-down, in-and-out, will that be indicative of a broken crankshaft? I know left-to-right could be worn out pins, but in-and-out would be a sure "bad deal" yes? What about cam/ring? Is there a good way for me to get into that with my little mini-shop shadetree mechanic tools?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
954 Posts
Pull the glow plugs and check for compression first,the crankshaft is fine because the belt is turning.
 
21 - 40 of 79 Posts
Top