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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello everyone! I signed up last year some time and have found this sight to be a wealth of knowledge, thank you for that.

I'm on my 3rd 6.5l vehicle. I had a 99 GMC K3500 and I bought a 97 K3500 with the NV4500 transmission as a parts vehicle (It runs good but the body is in bad shape), my plan was to put the manual transmission in the other truck and have a spare motor, but I sold the other truck and bought a Suburban instead.

This is where I need some help. I bought a 1999 GMC Suburban, 6.5l (8th VIN digit F) automatic, 4x4 that did not run. I'm hoping I can get it running and not have to swap out the whole engine (From the 97 K3500). So this is what I have:

The engine turns over and creates good suction at the turbo inlet
I have fuel to the IP but not to the injector (I loosened the line to the front driver's side injector)
I have checked all the basics, air filter, fuel filter, grounds, glow plug timer, fuel shut off solenoid, ETC.

I also filled out the check list to the best of my ability since the truck has never run for me and I have no history on the truck other than it was a repo and the salvage yard was going to part it out if I didn't buy it as is.

I know the PCM is a common offender, I guess I'm hoping it could be something less expensive/labor intensive.

Any help would be much appreciated.



1. Describe the problem you are having in detail:
The engine turns over at a normal RPM; however, will not start. I have no smoke coming from the exhaust while it is cranking. I have fuel to the IP, I checked it by unplugging the inlet fuel line and from the "T" valve; however, no fuel to the injectors (I loosened the line to the front driver's side injector and no fuel comes out during cranking)

2. Year of truck/engine.
1999 and as far as I know it's the original motor.

3. Odometer reading (indicate miles or kilometers).
165,000

4. Indicate the model number on the Injection pump (starts DS4 or DB2......).
Don't know

5. Indicate if you know if it’s a 1500, 2500, 2500HD, 3500, 3500HD.
K2500

6. Do you have an EGR on the engine? (An F or an S engine code 8th VIN digit)
Yes, 8th VIN digit is F

7. Air Filter condition (visual check).
Clean K&N Air Filter

8. Fuel filter condition (freshly changed, mileage since changed).
New, 0 miles

9. Location of PMD/FSD? (ex. on pump/remote over intake, behind bumper).
Still mounted on pump (I will be moving it ASAP) First I need to get the thing running.

9a. If remote mounted, describe wiring harness (homemade or purchased from which vendor).
N/A

9b. Indicate the location and condition of the FSD/IP grounding wire.
It's grounded on the IP, from what I can tell it's in good shape.

10. Outside Temperature (C or F). _____ °
75f

11. Service Engine Light while running?- on/off/intermittent
Unknown

11a. Service Engine light does glow during start/cranking/bulb check: Yes/No
Yes

12.Have you scanned for engine codes? Yes/No
Yes

12a. List exact results on engine codes.
One code: P0238 (Turbo charger Boost Sensor "A" Circuit High)

13. Condition of Battery terminals (removed, cleaned and tightened).
Good batteries, they came out of my 97 K3500 and they are fully charged and the terminals are clean

14. Known condition and age of Batteries .
Don't know how old they are but they are good

14a. Are batteries a matched set of same age?
Yes

15. Condition of Major Grounds (removed, cleaned and tightened)
All have been removed and cleaned

15a Have the batteries been individually load tested?
No but the engine will crank over at normal RMP, don't think it's a battery problem

16. Does engine crank, or "turn over"?
Yes

16a. Does engine start and run?
No

17. If engine does not start- Crack injector line: do you have fuel? Yes/No
No

18. Does your Wait To Start light come on?
Yes

18a.Number of seconds WTS light is lit.
About 5 seconds

19. Engine Cranking speed (if you have an accurate tachometer).
Unknown but sounds normal

20. Are you experiencing Stalling?
N/A

20a. Describe the event (upon startup only, down the road, hit a bump, etc...)
N/A

20b. Do you notice loss of dash or instruments?
N/A

21. Check turbo inlet and air filter for obstructions.
Clear of obstruction

22. In a no-hot start, pour a bottle of room-temp water on the injection pump. Does it start now?
No

23. Lift pump test - Describe results.
Tested by opening the T-valve and by disconnecting the inlet hose from the IP, clean diesel flowed out when the ignition was on

24. Upon cold start, does the radiator hose get hard quickly? Yes/No
N/A

25. Upon cold start, do you have excessive white smoke? Yes/No
N/A

26. Do you have excessive cranking time before the engine starts? Yes/No
N/A

27. Have you used the block heater? Does it affect engine starting? (only try for starting problems).
Have not used it, the temperatures have been in the 70's and 80's

28. Are all glow plugs in proper working order?
Unknown, I don't know how to test them

29. During hard acceleration, do you have excessive black smoke? Yes/No
N/A

30. Do you have any unusual exhaust smoke issues?
N/A

31. Turbo check out - Pass/Fail
Not really sure how to check this.

32. Indicate fuel that you are using: Bio-Diesel, #2 Diesel, SVO/WVO, other
I would guess #2 Diesel from the smell of it, definitely not SVO or WVO.

32a. If running Veggie Oil fuel setup, indicate details of your conversion (homemade or packaged
system).
N/A

33. Are you using any fuel additives? If so, please list.
N/A

34. Upon unscrewing fuel cap, do you have a large vacuum formed in the tank? Yes/No
Yes, considering it has been sitting who-knows how ling without starting

35. Do you have any service history available that might pertain to the problem you are having?
No, bought it from a junk yard and was told it was a repo.

36. Please indicate any modifications to the vehicle that might help us diagnose better.
Everything looks to be stock.
 

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1995 GMC Suburban
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You need to try to plug in a KNOWN WORKING PMD not coming from your truck original IP since this truck does not even start.

Moving a PMD from a non running truck is not worthwhile, IMO.
 
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Welcome aboard..

1st, you stated : "Tested by opening the T-valve and by disconnecting the inlet hose from the IP, clean diesel flowed out when the ignition was on"..

Did you hear the lift pump running?
Did you check/Clean the Screen manager inside,bottom of the Fuel Filter Manager for any obstructions?
If you disconnected the IP inlet then you introduced air into the system.

Bleed the fuel system using this thread and crack open the #1 injector line, at the injector until you get fuel dribbling out. Tighten the line back up and then crank it over to see what happens.

1996+ Lift Pump Prime Connector - Apply 12v to this connector to run the lift pump:
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm-diesel-engines/21-6-5l-diesel-engine/698297-help-fuel-pressure-drops-after-several-mins-5psi-0psi-shutdowns-2.html#post6910025
 
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Discussion Starter #4
I initially check to make sure I had fuel pressure by opening the T valve. I alsotried loosening the injector line and no fuel came out it, wasn't until today that I tried taking off the inlet hose. I understand it may have introduced a little bit of air but the truck was not starting before that.

I'm afraid it's going to be the PMD, I was just hoping it could be something else I was overlooking.

Does anybody know of an easy way to remove the PMD without having to take off the whole manifold?
 

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I initially check to make sure I had fuel pressure by opening the T valve. I alsotried loosening the injector line and no fuel came out it, wasn't until today that I tried taking off the inlet hose. I understand it may have introduced a little bit of air but the truck was not starting before that.

I'm afraid it's going to be the PMD, I was just hoping it could be something else I was overlooking.

Does anybody know of an easy way to remove the PMD without having to take off the whole manifold?
I dont think youre getting that pmd out without removing the intake. If its shot you want to install new one with extension harness anyway so just let it stay there. Unless you want to mount your new one there which is not recommended. Even if remote mounting was not beneficial it would in the sense that when it craps out its easier to change.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
I dont think youre getting that pmd out without removing the intake. If its shot you want to install new one with extension harness anyway so just let it stay there. Unless you want to mount your new one there which is not recommended. Even if remote mounting was not beneficial it would in the sense that when it craps out its easier to change.
The reason I ask is because I have a donor truck that I know ru so I'm going to take the PMD off of it, I was just hoping there was an easy way to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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when I did my PMD relocation, I used a long slotted screw driver and popped the plug off the stock PMD, then connected the 6" extension harness and ran it back under the intake and out to the remote location. I tided it up the next time I had to pull the intake.

the stock PMD is still in the stock location to this day
 

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Without a variety of the correct tool and ingenuity, it will probably not easy to take out a PMD from IP without taking out the intake.

That is why I said what I said, "It is not worthwhile".
 

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Discussion Starter #11
when I did my PMD relocation, I used a long slotted screw driver and popped the plug off the stock PMD, then connected the 6" extension harness and ran it back under the intake and out to the remote location. I tided it up the next time I had to pull the intake.

the stock PMD is still in the stock location to this day
I plan on doing the same thing, I already ordered the relocation kit and I will be leaving the bad PCM on the side on the IP, my problem is I have a donor truck that runs and I was wanting to avoid taking the manifold of to get to the PCM if at all possible, looks like I will be removing the intake manifold.
 
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