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How To Check For Air In The Fuel System

Another thing that can cause stalling is air in the fuel system.

The best way to tell if there is air in the fuel system is by replacing the rubber hose from the IP to the return line system. Use clear 1/4" fuel line. Oreilly's has it in the lawnmower parts area. You may need smaller diameter clamps.

Here are pictures of mine (mine is Tygon fuel line)

Auto part Engine Vehicle Fuel line Car


Auto part Fuel line Engine Automotive fuel system Vehicle


Auto part Fuel line Hose Automotive fuel system Engine


Then (tranny in Park with E brake on) start the engine. First check for leaks where you clamped the clear line. Then look for air bubbles.

If there are bubbles, you have to find and fix the leaks.
 

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Unfortunately some PMDs are bad right out of the box. The PCM picks up a change in resistor value after 50 key on/off cycles (at least in a 1994).

PMD overheating can be caused by not mounting to clean, flat heat sink with a thin coat of heat transfer paste or the heat transfer "gasket" that comes with it. The Stanadyne gray comes with one of the "gaskets"
 

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Based on the pictures, I would take them apart and thoroughly clean them. Use wire brush, emery paper to get the rust off.

Here is a link to a grounds thread for the standard 6.5L trucks: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...-grounds-grounds-importance-good-grounds.html that should help you locate them. Several of us have added grounds from the back of the intake manifold to the firewall to improve on the factory ground strap. I buy the pre-made ones at AutoZone for this.

You might want to do this mod on the battery connectors, too: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/2755252-post5.html
 
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