[Alex6.5TB]

Basically everything is new, tank to IP, except the sending unit which looked newer. The sock has been changed too to AC deco.

The glow plug relay wires look like they could use some attention. I’d try getting those soldered and fixed and maybe it will bring back the wait to start. Any chance you could get a code reader as well just to insure there isn’t any injection pump codes.

 

[Firebirdracer82]

Got the glow plugs done today in that I cleaned up the wiring. Still no wait to start light sadly after that.

Kinda out of ideas currently. I’m going through and charging the batteries back up to keep on bleeding the hard lines to the injectors.

Really discouraged about it sadly. Always figure it’s something easy.

 

[OkDually]

Got the glow plugs done today in that I cleaned up the wiring. Still no wait to start light sadly after that.

Kinda out of ideas currently. I’m going through and charging the batteries back up to keep on bleeding the hard lines to the injectors.

Really discouraged about it sadly. Always figure it’s something easy.

Did you replace the FFM or just clean it?

 

[Glagulator]

Do you have a voltmeter or even a 12v. test light?

 

[Firebirdracer82]

I did a completely new FFM. Almost cheaper than trying the new rings.

I tried buying a test light but accidentally got one that only works when the power is off… and it doesn’t work. The meter doesn’t work that is.

 

[Glagulator]

Just get one like in the link at your local parts house or harbor freight.
Your problem is more than likely electrical and you need to find it.
First thing to do is get the glow plug problem sorted out, you need a test light or voltmeter.
Also, it would be VERY helpful to read the codes. Your 95 OBD1 can do that with a paperclip.
Instructions are here on the site, maybe OK can direct you.
My 99 truck's original starter, 206K miles, just started acting up yesterday, (perfect timing of course) and
I'm in the middle of replacing it.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/lisle/tools---equipment/diagnostic-tools/test---tune/4887d9c7148f/lisle-heavy-duty-circuit-tester/lis0/28400?q=test+%26+tune&pos=3

 

[Firebirdracer82]

Not really sure, but I got a test light. On the PMD harness (using the startup test) there is power to the red wire on the plug to the pmd but not to the pink wire.

 

[Firebirdracer82]

Also tested on the regular harness not the extension. No power on pink wire.

but after probing the plug on the glow plug relay I have a wait to start light.

 

[Glagulator]

Pink wire on PMD is 12v. IGN from the FUEL/SOL fuse,
also feeds the FSO. Only those 2 things.

 

[Firebirdracer82]

Yup, the red wire is all that’s getting power with the key in the run position. I’m alone so I can’t have someone crank it for me to also test.

But, there is nothing on the pink wire on either harness with a test light.

 

[Firebirdracer82]

What’s the fuel/sol fuse or the FSO?

 

[Firebirdracer82]

Now I tried it again and I do have power to the pink wire. It’s intermittent.

 

[snarl95]

I have never had a WTS light. I just watch the voltmeter. Try starting the truck without the fuel cap on. What was the part number of the sock?

 

[Firebirdracer82]

Ok weird. But maybe progress?

the pink wire occasionally shows voltage when I turn the key. Sometimes yes. Most time no.

At one point I verified that it had power. Plugged in the pmd and it started. And then ran for a minute and then immediately died.

went back and tested. No power to pink wire after the engine died.

 

[Firebirdracer82]

I have never had a WTS light. I just watch the voltmeter. Try starting the truck without the fuel cap on. What was the part number of the sock?

It was the AC Delco one with the special bypass.

 

[Glagulator]

FSO = fuel shutoff solenoid, the one you gutted.
FUEL/SOL FUSE is in the UnderHood Fuse Relay Center, small fuse.
There are 2 large fuses in the UHFRC that are marked IGN A & IGN B.
With key ON, when you do NOT have 12v. to the pink wire do both those fuses have 12v?

My starter is now in and it's popping off like it should again.

 

[Glagulator]

UHFRC

 

[Firebirdracer82]

Kind of preliminary success.

The fuse block where the fuel shutoff selinoid is has new fuses but apparently there’s a problem under the fuse block because it wasn’t connecting. I jammed it in and the pink wire goes ok. The truck starts but then when the fuse shakes loose it dies.

also the glow plug relay is stuck on so I let it heat up and then unplug it.

ran for fifteen minutes before I had to leave. Might venture a ride around the block tomorrow when I get everything tightened back up.

how does one repair a fuse box?

 

[GrouchyOldMan]

I think I would be looking at the ignition switch. Isn't 95 the 1st year of the newer style interior? I've seen a few problems with those switches.

 

[Firebirdracer82]

That might be the concern as well. It’s going to be a long long trouble shooting process but it does appear that the problem is electric on it and related to that one wire/fuse connection.

since it’s on the same circuit I’m assuming if that started to work the shutoff selinoid would work if I put it back together and put it in.

But I’m going to have to learn how to fix that fuse.