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Discussion Starter #21
I was joking around looks to me like someone smeared some bondo over the rust and threw some paint over it - usually when you see a rust hole like that the rust is bubbling out from under the paint - in that pic it looks pretty smooth so thats another reason I thought someone tried a prior hack-ish repair (not you!)
Aah I see, it's hard to pick up on the camera but the paint is bubbling a lot around the hole. I wonder how it started though.. No holes on the other side as far as I could see, so wonder where dirt and **** came in from.
Really want to find the cause, since I don't want rust to come through again in a few years after I fix it.

Hopefully be ordering the quarter panels and this one next month. Then get it welded in and re-painted. The front grille will also be painted black while I'm at it.
 

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the front side markers are amber from the factory. clear is aftermarket.
the rust on the cab could be coming from an interior leak. windshield, drain plug missing, hold down bolt removed......
 

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Discussion Starter #23
the front side markers are amber from the factory. clear is aftermarket.
the rust on the cab could be coming from an interior leak. windshield, drain plug missing, hold down bolt removed......

I see, thanks! Got my US lights fixed today, amber lights came in earlier than expected!

What is the 'hold down bolt'? Never heard of that term before haha


Okay, so this might be a little early, but then again never too early to get some information. I was walking around my truck today with my dad, debating on wheels&tires after the lift.
We figured there's a few options:

6 identical rims&tires, a little bit wider than the original. Can't go too far in on the rear because of the leaf springs, and obviously we don't want the rear tires rubbing each other..

Option two we figured was to get 4 identical rims&tires on the rear, and 2 different one on the front. Then either remove the front wheel hub extension and put on a normal tire, or keep it on and look for a rim that comes more towards the outside of the car (hence why in that option I couldn't have 6 identical because they would be rubbing in the rear).

I'm not a hero when it comes to wheels and tires, and I believe it's different in the USA as well (for example we don't have 19.5 inch wheels in Europe) so any help here would be appreciated.

I added a picture, just to give an idea of the overall height I'm trying to achieve, and the width of the wheels I'd like.

I really like the wheel width on the blue one. And I think that's about as wide as I'm gonna get away with in the rear without the tires rubbing. I believe the front tires are a bit wider, which will look good with some extended fender flares (regulations here don't allow tires to stick out more than 3 cm) hence the fender flares. Also as far as I can see they removed the hub extenders at the front.

I use myself as a reference and would like the top of the bed to be at least at eye-level, maybe a little higher, but not too overkill.

22" would be the absolute maximum size rims for me, I'm hoping to go a little bit smaller and still achieve my desired overall height.

But then comes the million dollar question(s):

What offset and what size tires do I get on them? As said before I know absolutely nothing about wheels and tires.

Any suggestions / pictures etc welcome!
 

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With that size tire/wheel on the back you'll probably want a set of spacers so the tires won't rub. There are a lot of good reviews for Fred over at wheeladapters on DP.



Wheeladapter.com - dually spacers.
 

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I......What is the 'hold down bolt'? Never heard of that term before haha..............
a bolt for one of the seats but now that i think about it, i think they use studs.
front hubs will have to be machined unless you get a hub from a single wheel truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
With that size tire/wheel on the back you'll probably want a set of spacers so the tires won't rub. There are a lot of good reviews for Fred over at wheeladapters on DP.



Wheeladapter.com - dually spacers.
Thanks! Didn't think about that yet!

a bolt for one of the seats.
Aah I see, thanks, learned something today :HiHi:


Made a new video today with my GoPro filming the exhaust sound.

WARNING random orgasm might occur :hehe:
That turbo whistle never gets old!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggByM_mujpM
 

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too cool!
 
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Discussion Starter #29
My new front axle Actuator got in today, replaced it, and now my 4x4 is working perfect!

Also looked into ordering the new Fenders and panel for the rust underneath the back of the cab. Shipping costs came at a whopping $500?! There needs to be a cheaper way to get those panels across sea?
 

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My new front axle Actuator got in today, replaced it, and now my 4x4 is working perfect!

Also looked into ordering the new Fenders and panel for the rust underneath the back of the cab. Shipping costs came at a whopping $500?! There needs to be a cheaper way to get those panels across sea?
Might be cheaper to move to where the parts are ;)

I'd suspect you'll want to save up and purchase a partial container ship the lift kit etc all together.

Maybe check with the place you bought the truck from - see if they get routine parts shipped over in a container from the states..maybe you can piggy back on one of theirs?
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Might be cheaper to move to where the parts are ;)

I'd suspect you'll want to save up and purchase a partial container ship the lift kit etc all together.

Maybe check with the place you bought the truck from - see if they get routine parts shipped over in a container from the states..maybe you can piggy back on one of theirs?
Haha trust me if i'd have the chance to move to the USA I wouldn't hesitate :HiHi:

That might be an idea, depends on the ETA obviously. Thanks for the suggestion
 

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Discussion Starter #32
So a pretty shitty problem occurred yesterday.:banghead: When pulling up on the main road the truck began stuttering around 50 mp/h when I was accelerating.
Further investigated the problem and it seems when I give it about 3/4 of throttle for a good amount of time, it begins to sputter after say 10 seconds or so. When I floor it from a standstill or moving it runs fine, no stuttering at all. So it only stutters when giving it a lot of throttle for a good amount of time. No black smoke whatsoever, so I instantly thought about lack of fuel.

Checked the fuel filter, doesn't look bad, put it back in and the problem was gone... for a day. I already ordered a new filter today just to be sure but I'm afraid it was just coincidence.
Also jumped the lift pump which works fine and fulls up the filter pretty quick.
Checked the lift pump relay, which has power. Only one thing I'm a little bit concerned about. When I crank it the relay gets power on the 2nd power input, which is good, however I'm pretty sure when I put the truck on ignition it should get a 2 second 'crank' on the power input, which it doesn't. Also I do not hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds when put on ignition.

Is this normal or could this be my problem?
 

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Check or replace the screen manager down inside of the bottom of the FFM.

That small screen is often forgotten about.

Try running with the fuel cap loose and see if anything changes
 

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Could do a lift pump test. But probably best after checking filter condition. Should be able to run truck at idle for 30+ seconds with drain valve open. Any stuttering and the lift pump is weak, not able to supply ample fuel for all conditions.

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Could do a lift pump test. But probably best after checking filter condition. Should be able to run truck at idle for 30+ seconds with drain valve open. Any stuttering and the lift pump is weak, not able to supply ample fuel for all conditions.

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Where is the drain valve located? Is it the round thing on top of the fuel filter?
 

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Where is the drain valve located? Is it the round thing on top of the fuel filter?
The round thing on the fuel filter is called the bleed cap.
It allows you to remove air from the filter manager
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm-diesel-engines/21-6-5l-diesel-engine/841314-changing-fuel-filter.html#post8434074

The T Valve is located up by the oil filler tube on the front of the engine
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm-diesel-engines/21-6-5l-diesel-engine/849377-fuel-injection-pump.html#post8503865
 
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...........
The T Valve is located up by the oil filler tube on the front of the engine
..
it's the brass valve with a skinny silver handle. the fuel line runs from the bottom of the FFM. you can trace it if it's not in the usual spot. it's always hard to open by hand. i usually replace it with a newer valve.
you might want to consider moving the FFM to the fender. will make maintenance easier, esp leaks, which you will have eventually.
 

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Seeing as Im an Exported Ductchman m'self (came to Canada in '57) ...I just had to see what kind of a loon would buy a 2500/3500 Dually in Holland...LOL.! AWESOME..!!

My question is this...where the hell do ya park it.?? Seems to me the biggest vehicle on the roads there is a Smart Car...

Anyway - Very Cool...I can just see the other 15 million other loons (am one myself of course), wondering the same thing as you drive by.!! Most have likely never seen such a beast.

Not knowing much about the 6.2/6.5 Motors although I did have company 93 6.2...I'll stay outa this thread and just watch..!

Cheers, (tot zeins) - my written dutch is lousy as is my verbal...was 5 when we left.
Theo
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Seeing as Im an Exported Ductchman m'self (came to Canada in '57) ...I just had to see what kind of a loon would buy a 2500/3500 Dually in Holland...LOL.! AWESOME..!!

My question is this...where the hell do ya park it.?? Seems to me the biggest vehicle on the roads there is a Smart Car...

Anyway - Very Cool...I can just see the other 15 million other loons (am one myself of course), wondering the same thing as you drive by.!! Most have likely never seen such a beast.

Not knowing much about the 6.2/6.5 Motors although I did have company 93 6.2...I'll stay outa this thread and just watch..!

Cheers, (tot zeins) - my written dutch is lousy as is my verbal...was 5 when we left.
Theo
Hi Theo,

That is awesome! What a small world we live in haha.
Parking is a b*tch sometimes, but it keeps things interesting. The people watching with open mouths when i squeeze my bigass truck into the tiniest parking spot at the grocery store never gets old!
A lot of times I have to park over the curb because the parking spaces are too short, so my entire hood sticks out. At the spot where I park my truck at home the curb has sunk into the ground a good 3" from me driving up and down it :hehe: If i keep it up there will be no curb left at the end of the year!


Okay so I changed my diesel filter today and put a new lift pump relay in, my old one has been tampered with (lids broken off).
The problem SEEMS to be gone so far! But I suspect the lift pump being weak, or a clogged filter in the fuel tank itself. When I opened up the bleeder screw on top of the diesel filter, and jumped my lift pump, it did a few sputters and started dripping out, not a lot of pressure at all if you ask me.
So just to be sure I ordered a new lift pump today, so when the problem comes back I can replace it and test the pressure again. Was gonna detach the pump from the line coming from my tank and supply diesel from an external container and check the pressure again, just to rule out the pump, but I don't really wanna touch it now the problem seems to be gone.

Thanks for all the tips guys you helped out a lot!
 
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