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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If the WTS light comes on for about 7 seconds the truck will start normal and drive. Sometimes for 10 minutes sometimes 15 or more. It will stall usually on deceleration or breaking. Check for codes and get #14 #42 #57 #58 #62 pretty consistently, Before rebuilt injector pump used to get sometimes #18 #35 #48 #54 and others. Clear the codes with break and throttle pedals goes back to #12 and if the WTS light just flickers it won't start have to reclear codes until WTS comes on for 7 seconds and it will start and drive. farthest I will go from home is about 20 minuets. Runs smooth and normal power. Has new lift pump and 5-6 PSI at the IP oil PSI sender/switch is new as well as the GPR. I added an additional ground wire in the harness to the IP and senders. No EGR. filters are all new. new IP with Dtronics PMD still mounted to the pump (doesn't have 100 miles on it) Batteries are strong and good connections no smoke It is quite hot here -90 - 95'
 

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1995 Chevrolet Silverado Z71 6.5 TD
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If the WTS light comes on for about 7 seconds the truck will start normal and drive. Sometimes for 10 minutes sometimes 15 or more. It will stall usually on deceleration or breaking. Check for codes and get #14 #42 #57 #58 #62 pretty consistently, Before rebuilt injector pump used to get sometimes #18 #35 #48 #54 and others. Clear the codes with break and throttle pedals goes back to #12 and if the WTS light just flickers it won't start have to reclear codes until WTS comes on for 7 seconds and it will start and drive. farthest I will go from home is about 20 minuets. Runs smooth and normal power. Has new lift pump and 5-6 PSI at the IP oil PSI sender/switch is new as well as the GPR. I added an additional ground wire in the harness to the IP and senders. No EGR. filters are all new. new IP with Dtronics PMD still mounted to the pump (doesn't have 100 miles on it) Batteries are strong and good connections no smoke It is quite hot here -90 - 95'
1. Check your grounds first. Grounds-Grounds-Grounds The importance of good grounds.....
2. Buy a new pmd and extension cable from a reputable vendor to remote down in the front bumper rt side behind the license plate or in behind the grill. The PMD mounted on the pump gets heat soaked and destroyed.
3. install a clear fuel line on the return side of the pump to detect if there are air bubbles. You can pick it up at any auto parts store.
 

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Welcome.
Unplug the FUEL HEATER and WATER IN FUEL electrical connectors on the Fuel Filter Manager.
See if anything changes. Inspect those pigtails where they enter the FFM for bare wire and shorts.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Replaced two more ground connections in the engine harness, the fuel heater was disconnected previously, disconnected the water sensor no air in the fuel, hooked up remote PMD and the problem seems worse but only throws codes #42 #57 and #62 now clear them and it will only go about two blocks ?
 

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Try unplugging the MAP sensor and the BARO sensor.
See how it runs.
Have you removed the filter harness from the OS?
Looks like the 5v. circuit is shorted.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK I disconnected the baro sensor - no change disconnected the MAP sensor it did run a little longer but still stalled Disconnected the temp sensor and it will continue to run but high idle so I got a new temp sensor - back to stalling after a few minuets while it is running I can wiggle the harnesses - shut it off and no codes when it does throw codes they all seam to be temperature related except for the 5v shorted to ground What next ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I also removed the filter from the OS. no change. today with the temp sender disconnected it started stalling again cleared the codes reconnected the temp sender and left the A/C off drove about 20 minuets back home parked and checked the codes - none ? I may try a capacitor in the clutch power wire to the A/C
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok with the A/C turned off it would continue to run so I added a ground inline right at the A/C clutch, so far no stalling and no codes will keep you posted - thanks for the info and help do I need to put the filter back in at the OS ?
 

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You can leave out the filter.Causes nothing but grief for the most part.
 
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You might check the A/C clutch diode.
From the 1995 FSM.

“The A/C Compressor Clutch Diode is connected across
the terminals of the A/C Compressor Clutch.
Whenever the clutch is de-energized, the magnetic field around it
collapses, generating and induced voltage in the clutch coil.
The Diode provides a path for the current resulting from
the induced voltage so that other circuit components are not
damaged.”

The diode is in the harness about 6” from the clutch connector.
To test - remove the A/C relay in the UHFRC.
Check at the clutch connector for continuity on the 2 wires.
Reverse the probes and check again.
You should get continuity one way and not the other.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok so adding a ground to the clutch connector at the clutch helped but now the cruise control bucks and jerks until it just drops out ?
 

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Also, test the alternator. It may be weak?
 
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