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Discussion Starter #1
so i just recently got a 1982 6.2 k25, i bought it from a kid who inherited it from his uncle after he passed away. he said that he fired the engine up and got it running and drove it down the street and it started running away on him. the truck only has 100k on it and is very clean. i checked the oil and its way over full and smells of diesel. i've been researching for a few days now trying to figure out what the problem is and it either sounds like its the lifter pump diaphragm has gone bad and is putting fuel in the oil or its the injection pump fuel solenoid is stuck open and feeding the fuel into the oil that way. i was going to start by checking the lift pump then check the solenoid on the injection pump. anything helps and is much appreciated. i read another post from a guy saying he called a mechanic up and he refused to work on his truck, well i had the same situation happen to me and i just laughed and said "of course". the truck has been sitting for about 3 years.
 

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Welcome to DieselPlace

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I would change oil and lift pump since they're cheap and go from there. Fire it back up and see if it tries to take off. Have someone ready to snuff it out. I have experienced numerous times if air gets into the system (running truck low on fuel) the truck will start to act like it's running away with very little throttle input. I don't run below a 1/4 tank because of this. It's a good times when it happens!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
you think i could get away with just removing a line off the lift pump to make sure it still works before changing it?
 

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Yes, but back to your point of diesel in the oil. High chance it's from the lift pump. They can be had from 10 bucks on up, so why not replace it?
 
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Discussion Starter #6
ok so i ordered the new lifter pump and filters but got impatient so i got batteries changed the oil and tried to fire the thing up. its getting fuel at the secondary fuel filter i opened one line at a time to make sure that i had flow through the inlet side then reconnected it and disconnected the outlet side and got flow through the filter so there is flow from both. but when i went to crack a line on the injector to see if any fuel came out i got nothing. the engine sounds great when its turning but isnt even attempting to fire. i put the key to the "on" position and played with the connection on the injection pump and every one made clicking sounds so the solenoids seemed good. i dont think the injectors are even getting fuel. i just cracked one and no fuel came out. did the same thing at the injection pump and still nothing. the glow plug light on my dash isnt turning on either. soooooo..... thats where i'm at.
 

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You said filter S ... so you have 2 round ones.
The issue with them is the primary filter on that setup it has a air bleed on it buuut it’s on the inlet side ... so if you had it open it sucks in a ton of air.
My bet is... yes, fuel in the oil is bad so it probably needs a lift pump but it won’t be the shut off solenoid as it would never put oil in the fuel.

the run away could have been either it sucking air and the governor pulling wide open or the governor stuck open from sitting. Go get some synthetic 2 stroke oil and dump in 2 quarts and we’ll get you todo some hard on off throttle shiet ... not hold it to the pin ... let it grab a gear then roll harder into the IP, then full release ... repeat ... no need to run it to the max rpm just be rough on the throttle. This will get the 2 stroke oil in and through the governor.

We gata get you to figure out the gp sytem or problems cause it may not start with out them. Any chance it has manual over ride??

We can also kinda force this thing to start but DON’T USE ETHER !!

Bare with me as as I will sound like a nut bag ... go to the kitchen and grab the Pam cooking spray ... Yuarr .... use it like ether, 2-3 second spray down each side of the intake and crank ... this is after you took the air filter off .... I forgot to tell someone that once and you can imagine the mess ...

Also on the run away thing ... if it is running away you can only shut it down by choking off the air to the engine if the IP isn’t full of fuel. Pinching the return line will NOT work.

So have a heavy denim jacket, blankets, paper phone book, not your IPhone ... and probably pull the air cleaner studs so it’s easier to get a fast seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ok, so i replaced both filters and filled them with ATF. still nothing to the injectors. so i took the outlet line off of the secondary filter and injection pump side figuring that it might be clogged. i also took the top off the injection pump and made sure both solenoids were working. which they both worked fine. reinstalled the injection pump lid, reattached the outlet line of the secondary filter to the injection pump with a new soft line and blowing out the metal line. i did put some ether in it to see if it would start because i'm pretty sure that the glow plugs are inoperational right now. it wanted to start and i know its getting fuel to the cylinders because smoke started coming from the exhaust. the glow plug light in the cabin doesnt even come on. the picture bellow is the only glow plug relay i can find. i want to do the manual glow plug relay but am not sure how to do this with the setup it has. i'm going to order new glow plugs and would like to fix that relay to manual. i'm getting closer but still wont fire. do you think i'm going to have to change injectors and clean all the injector lines on the IP?
 

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Seriously... don’t use ether ...!!!

Ya you got the shiety style of controller but the easiest to do a full manual on also.

Unplug that pos controller and tape off the end, then find the gp solenoid on the fender and find the small control wires to it, one side will be ground ... put power to the other side and bingo ... gp’s turn on. No more than 8 seconds or you’ll burn them out.

All you need is a push button, fuse and a few feet of wire.... and there is a few other different ways of wiring this up but we can get to that later. Notice I said push button not a toggle switch, this is so you don’t accidentally leave your go’s on over night.

Hope you haven’t order go’s yet as we’ll push you to self limiting 60g’s. They have to turned on for more the 8 seconds to heat better but don’t burn out like 9g’s, hence self limiting.

I do hope you got the top of the IP back on right as it doesn’t just drop straight down. Google how to do it.

No need to clean injectors or lines.... you have an air issue not dirt. You need to get the air out of the system before the injectors will pop properly.

Again in my dig line is ways to bleed the system a few different ways.
 

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And please don’t put atf through these IP’s.

Atf is a friction modifying fluid that allows clutch’s to grab a steel, put engine oil in an auto trans and see how far you get with it ....
 

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Yup that’s the solenoid, coupla different choices to wire it up.

So cut the small red & white wires, jumper off the battery feed to a fuse to the red wire, white goes into the cab to the push button, other side to ground.

Sub option of this is to find key switched power under hood or run it in from the cab and hook it to the red. This will only allow the gp’s to cycle key on.

I like doing this controlled ground and key switched power version cause if the push button fails you just ground the wire to any part of the dash and it works & it will only cycle key on.

Another way is to take the white wire and ground it to the fender where the solenoid mounts. Find key switched power in the cab to one side of the push button, from there you go to to the red wire.

This is easy but depends on good fender ground.

Key switched power under hood can be taken from the original gp controller plug, alternator field .... lots of things cause it only takes a coupla milliamperes to trip the solenoid and it’s only for a few seconds.

Hope that helps you.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
so a quick question, could i just unplug the red and white wire and run a whole new wire to the battery with a fuse(red) and a whole new white wire into cab with ground or do i need to cut both of thoughs wires and connect to both sides of the wire? if you get what i'm saying?lol
 

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Yes, unplugging it and running new wires will also work but I doubt you’ll ever hook up the original controller again cause even brand new, they are flaky.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
thanks man you answered my question. i should get the new glow plugs tomorrow but will see if this works first.
 

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7-8 seconds for non self limiting gp’s like 9g’s and 10-12 for self limiting gp’s like 60g’s
 

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7-8 seconds for non self limiting gp’s like 9g’s and 10-12 for self limiting gp’s like 60g’s
I don't agree with the limit plug times 100%, or I have a **** wiring job. Knowing my truck, probably the second, but none the less... I like 20-22 seconds on the 60g's and 15-18 on the Bosch Duratherm plugs (my prefered)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
is this the right glow plug??
 

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I don't agree with the limit plug times 100%, or I have a **** wiring job. Knowing my truck, probably the second, but none the less... I like 20-22 seconds on the 60g's and 15-18 on the Bosch Duratherm plugs (my prefered)
well the nice part of self limiting gp’s is there is almost no max on time for them. I just didn't want the op to burn out his 9g’s with manual system.

is this the right glow plug??
could be ... what’s the part number and manufacturer??

What I’m more concerned about is ... where’s the rest of it?? You maybe pulling an injector to fish the rest of that out before it falls through the pre cup and gets eaten by the piston ....
 

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Discussion Starter #20
bosch part# BOS 0250202126 i guess i'll be pulling an injector tomorrow to inspect it. i still cant get the thing to start. i have a new lift pump but am dreading putting it on. i was hoping the glow plugs would do it. i did the glow plug manual relay and know that it works because the glow plug light actually comes on and i can hear the solenoid click.
 
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