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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well guys i got a little story for you. back in 1962, grandpa was tired of his old 70 john deere 2 lunger gas tractor and wanted more power, so he went to John Tingley of Tingley Implements, Lloydminster Saskatchewan, and got himself a brand new 1963 4010. It was the first 4010 sold in the area. well the first new generation john deere sold in the area. it was a 1963 John Deere 4010 Diesel( another new thing for grandpa Diesel) in Standard tractor outfitting (rounded fenders, fixed wide front axle 18.4-34 rear tires), has the Syncro Range transmission (was the only transmission available in the 10 series) and a single hydraulic outlet and no 3 pt hitch. Apparently he also ordered the dealer installed air precleaner stack (has the dust bowl on top that you empty when its full) and the pre screener which is a very fine screen that wraps around the bottom of the precleaner to keep chaff and straw and thistle fuzz out of the air filter. Also has the deluxe seat (another thing grandpa loved about the tractor). he drove it home from the dealer (about 35 miles) and loved it. the new powersteering that could be turned with 1 finger, and the power brakes that could lock up both back tires with an effortless push, and all the controls in easy reach, made him love it more. after using it some he noticed the front axle looked backwards on it, so he removed it and turned it around so the front tires were further ahead (if you notice, 4010's and early 4020's had the front axle spun around the other way, then the later 20 series had the axle facing forward like grandpa had done about 5 years before deere got the idea).

the neighbors loved the tractor too. back then they were still rattling across the field on their D's and R's and other 2 cylinder tractors, and the 4010 with its 6 cylinder engine just hummed along and looked so good doing it.

somewhere in the mid 60's the tractor was recalled to the dealer to be fitted with 4020 liners and pistons, so its essentially a 4020 in 4010 trim.
also sometime in the mid 60's the original hour meter seized up so that was replaced by the dealer free of charge too.

but enough of the story behind the tractor, now to what im getting at...

the clutch had worn out in the tractor 15 years ago, before we moved 8 hours south. since we didnt have enough money to bring the tractor down here, we left it parked up there outside in the elements. well this year i went up there with my dodge, and a large flatbed trailer and brought it home finally. when i got it into the shop, i found it was seized, so injectors were removed and WD-40 was poured down all 6 lungs and let sit for a week. it came free, so i put the sticks back in it and tried to see if there was still some life left in it. ( i know this was dumb but i left the 15 year old LOW SULPHUR DIESEL in it, not ULSD but just LSD, the last GOOD diesel left around probably) i got it spinning over and gave it a sniff of ether and low and behold, she came to life with a loud ether crack and a cloud of black, grey, blue, white and WD-40 pouring out of the exhaust pipe.

anyways, what im getting at is, im going to replace the clutch and repair everything that hasnt worked because of the elements, and put this tractor back to work. ill keep this thread updated as i go along. sorry for the long story, but i felt you guys would feel why i would bugger with this old seized up 4010.

heres an update video
and a video of me driving it after i got it unsiezed
 
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Bout time you went and got it Brent :D. Keep the info coming.
 

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nice story and tractor
 

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Cool vids! I did a very similar thing with my grandfathers Allis Chalmers 190xt. He didnt buy it new but long story short, it sat for some time and seized as well. I brought it home and pulled out the injectors just like you had done, put some pb blaster in the cylinders and I had left it sit for almost a year while I was away in college. Turbo charger wouldnt spin either. Dropped the engine oil to change it, and I submerged the turbo in the old oil. Took the exhaust housing off about a week later and it was good to go.

Came home from school, hooked up some batteries and got it to spin over, quick shot of ether and she fired right up. Unfortunately I have had no time to continue working on it but videos like this really make me want to go and play with em again.

Keep up the good work. Sure your grandfather would love to see his tractor out workin the fields again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thats the other thing. Grandpa passed away in 1968 (long time before i was even thought of), so getting this thing running, and driving it, and picking rocks with it today really gave me a feeling of what he used to do, and was really cool. i wish grandma had pictures of Grandpa and his tractor, but sadly she doesnt. i would've loved to see him sitting on or standing next to his new baby out in the field.

i put the hood back on and everything and snapped some pictures today.



 
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What an awesome tractor Brent
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks Stroud.
 

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Very nice! I got a 4010 when I moved home and bought a neighbors place in '93. Need to do the clutch, the pto part is stuck "engaged" from too many years with a Farmhand belly-pump on it! Figure to get to it this winter. It has had the 4020 overhaul years ago when Paul had it. Then I need a mount for my 125 Ezee-On loader, can't beat the old synchro-range for bucking bales- the 4-7-Fast R slot is the real deal!! Mine looks a little different, put row crop rear fenders on it but notice yours is quite straight! Well done!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
oh hell yes, cant even shake a stick at the 7th gear reverse! best thing in the world for loading bales in the field, load em in 7th, then throw in 7th reverse and go bucking backwards across the field to your next bale. this tractor had a farmhand on it too. thats what those angle iron things are bolted under the side steps. theyre the back mounts. if you put that 125 on it, LOCTITE THE MOTOR MOUNT BOLTS! 4010's only have 4 bolts on each side holding the engine to the side frames as opposed to the 4020 and larger 6 bolt system, and the 2 front bolts on each side are prone to coming loose and breaking off (ask me how i know) especially with a loader frame on and you cant see them come loose.
 
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Great story Brent! That's a good looking 4010.

We just got our 4020 back. Rebuilt 4320 engine, no turbo, running the 4020 fuel pump. It was great loading bales this weekend.

Yes, that 4/7/R is a fantasic range for loading bales. We have the original 46A loader on ours.

When your putting in the new clutch, make sure you have everything aligned perfectly and turn the engine over by hand till it slides right on. It takes nothing to bend the clutch plate, don't ask how I know.

Also remember to check your throw out bearings. Instead of having to remove the cover to grease them, most guys drill holes through the side of the housing under the clutch, and use grease hose to extend, then put the grease nipple on the outside for easy service. Makes things 10x easier. If you haven't seen that before, let me know and I can take a pic off ours.

I have basically put everything in front of the transmission back together on ours in the last year, so if you have questions, feel free to ask!
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
perfect! thanks marty! yea ill be careful. we always put grease hoses on semis at work so itll be a cake walk installing em. so you mounted the 4020 pump on the timing cover like the 4320 pump eh? lines fit and everything?
 

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No problem Brent!

No, its in the same location as the 4020 pump, so all the old lines were reused. There is a guy that makes an adapter for the 4320 block to make it work, I don't recall the name off the top of my head. Works slick!
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
weird. so what made you want to use the 4320 block? just had it kicking around or what? as far as i know there arent many changes between the 6404 and the 6404T engine besides the oil filter location and type, the oil capasity and the A/C pump castings in the front (late 4020 engines had this from 1970 and on). well i guess the heavier pistons and lower compression ratio are a bit nicer other than in N/A format theyre kinda useless haha. i cant wait to fix this 4010. needs a seat and some seat bracket work before i can take it out in the field for good LOL. seat is seized and cushion is screwed so its a solid steel seat lol. much rather stand and run it that way than sit and end up with a spinal cord sticking out my ass at the end of the day. any idea what would cause my indicator lights to not work yet the fuel gauge comes alive? broken wire? screwed key switch? not bulbs, i had enough time to check those haha.
 
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We used a 4320 block because we couldn't find a good 4020 block. Our original 4020 engine took the sleeves out due to electrolysis, and it took the first couple sleeve seals (ate the block out) around the bottom of #5 and #6 cylinders. So after getting several blocks that the supplier said were 'good' and finding they had the same problem, we eventually got a good one. Engine builder forgot to put the interal seal into the oil filter and siezed that engine solid. After further looking for a good block, found a 4320 block and crank. Put in new 4020 pistons, sleaves and pump, but had to adapter the pump to keep it in the stock location and grind down the flywheel to accept the bigger 4320 crank.

Anyway that's basically the whole story. The 4020's in our area have been dropping like flies in the last couple years to the same thing, with many find they way to the scrap yard due to a lack of good blocks. So ya might want to change the coolant in your 4010 as well!

You also may want to look at the 30 or 40 series of newer open station seats. They are much more comfortable, and these are what most universal ones are based on. I have been meaning to look into what would bolt right on.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ill be getting additive for my tractors for their coolant. and itll be getting a original delux seat from peavy mart lol. that way they last the elements and looks factory original.
 
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Nice tractor, glad to see that there are other people keeping these good tractors running. We have two 4010 that are used on the farm every day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Update: split the tractor yesterday (took the better part of 2.5 hours) and pulled the clutch outta the flywheel and found a bump in the road. i had originally bought just a new HD clutch disk and was planning on having the flywheel and presure plate machined, but i found that someone way back when had changed the factory clutch out with a HD clutch, without machining or replacing the flywheel and presureplate. Result? flywheel has quite the dish in it and the presure plate isnt far behind. clutch disk is worn right out, but i cant just toss another in there and hope it works. i might get a few years work out of it, but thats not my style. going to take the flywheel and presure plate to a machine shop tomorrow to see if they can flatten it all out for me. also, my right hand battery box is rusted right through. so to save money for now, im going to construct 2 square battery trays out of angle iron and will bolt them to the brackets onto the sides of the transmission case like the factory boxes. the factory 24V system goes through a set of 12V batteries every few years. each time it costs about 300-350 dollars to change those batteries. so i figured converting to cheaper square vehicle batteries it should cut the cost down to 220 or so. that and i dont have to go hunting for a new battery box. someday when i do a proper resto ill get new boxes and the rectangular batteries, but untill then these should work.

also, removed the ether injection aid from the cowl. splitting the tractor more than likely bends the hell out of the little tube so i took it right off(4020's have a connector next to the cowl since the ether aid comes out of the center of the dash, the 4010's aid was more of an afterthough and just bolts on the side of the cowl near the clutch pedal) and got the lid unsiezed (liquid wrench has been a major help this whole project) and blew ether through it to make sure it wasnt clogged (dad informed me that his older brother lost the lid off the ether aid by not screwing it back on and the chain broke. this lead to the aid sucking in a bunch of dirt, so i thought it would be plugged). also im working on unseizing the foot throttle. by the looks of it, it seized at about the 1900 rpm spot, so someone took the little arm off the pedal inside the cowl and just run it with the hand throttle, but if im going to be picking bales i want a foot throttle. has anyone else had this issue with the foot throttle seizing up on these open air 4000 series tractors?
 
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Ouch that sucks about the flywheel and pressure plate. I'm not surprised about the battery box though.

I haven't had an issue with the foot throttle being seized, but I know the PTO lever on our 4020 is very very sticky. The other thing to check is that the foot throttle linkage. Since those old ball and cup connectors are all but worn out on those old tractors by now. Are you sure it didn't come off and was jambed up? Or that there wasn't some other obstruction down there? I found nuts, bolts, even old rags down there when we first got our 4020.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
yea make a steel box enclosure around an acid filled battery and expect it to last 48 years... and no, the pedal shaft is seized in the clutch housing casting near the brake pedals. the linkage inside has been unhooked since the pedal is seized down and would keep the engine at high speed all the time.
 
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That's not going to be easy to take off...

On a different note, I see it has the small rounded fenders. Were they actually a factory option, or have they been switched over? I know our 4020 has the "big" round ones that cover the whole wheel. Dad told be that they switched them on their original 4020's years ago to the rounded style that you have there. The 30, and 40 series tractors all had fenders like that, as did the 7020's and 7520 4wd's.
 
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