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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

That's what I and my mechanic are wondering.

We are rebuilding a 506 in which we found a broken crankshaft.
Tree Wood Metal


We found the oil squirters so it's a 506, even though ther's no clear casting in the valley.
Auto part Automotive wheel system Rim Wheel Muffler


The 506 block being one with oil squirters, the 141 and 599 not, so we wonder if we can use the 141 crankshaft we have in the rebuild of the 506 block.

We think yes, but need to get sure. If there are any differences what are they? Main bearings?


Also, can someone decode these castings ?:

Auto part
Auto part
Auto part


Thanks

 

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You sure you wanna reuse a 506 block ? espcially one that had a broken crank ? I'd at the very least have that block magnafluxed. Not sure on the cranks. Go to Scat's website and see if they list different ones ??
 

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cranks are all the same 1 piece seal crank including the 599 6.2, the problem is you cannot machine a gm crank as the hardening is too shallow
 

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We have one block like yours, also crack-free and wearing the two casting #'s (141,506). The date code, is Dec 21, 1996.....

The cranks are all the same, only different in the 660 block, due to the two piece rear main seal.

We are having pieces prepared now, one of them being a 660 casting crankshaft. The shop is National Crankshaft, routinely grind these cranks .010" after being shot peened. IIRC, the drag-truck Swb-chevy that John built with 304rwhp, has a crank ground .010"....been about 4 years now, so it seems that maybe they can be ground. We will find out, as we have also gone 10/10.
 

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...these castings ?
View attachment 134919 ...
That number ends with "...506"; does that mean it's a 506 block? Is that at the top rear L of the block, behind the valley, below where the GPR would be? I'm trying to ID my block without pulling the intake & IP, so if I can get to that number, and it's the block number, I could satisfy my curiousity.
 

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That number ends with "...506"; does that mean it's a 506 block? Is that at the top rear L of the block, behind the valley, below where the GPR would be? I'm trying to ID my block without pulling the intake & IP, so if I can get to that number, and it's the block number, I could satisfy my curiousity.
yes the last 3 digits on the bell housing flange is the block # we refer to, that is the whole gm block number back there just like on any gm block
 

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Mark posted a pic in another thread of a valley number made of large raised dots. That's the one I had been looking for, but couldn't access. I'll try to get to this one now...
 

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That number ends with "...506"; does that mean it's a 506 block? Is that at the top rear L of the block, behind the valley, below where the GPR would be? I'm trying to ID my block without pulling the intake & IP, so if I can get to that number, and it's the block number, I could satisfy my curiousity.
You got a 97, probably got a 506.
Just like the Cummins 53 Blocks...Not all of them cracked...but alot did...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You sure you wanna reuse a 506 block ? espcially one that had a broken crank ? I'd at the very least have that block magnafluxed. Not sure on the cranks. Go to Scat's website and see if they list different ones ??
Well, yah, I know Kenny. I think like you on this one, but the guy has a tight budget.

Though, you're right, only magnafluxing will show the abuse, but none of rebuilders here get this machine... and as long as one gets it, he will sure ask for an eye to pay the inspection...:mad:

We carefully inspected the block and mains, and it seems OK. :cool:
We cross fingers
 

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Good Luck...:)
 
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