Diesel Place banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
260 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The rig actually only has 95K miles but I wanted to do a two stage drain and service using TranSynd. I plan on replacing the pan on the next drain right at 100K miles. The main reason for the two stage drain is 1) I wanted to replace as much as the old Dextron fluid that is mixed in with the new TranSynd. 2) The reason for the deeper pan is I want to add a heating element for the upcoming Arctic Circle trip I have planed. The new pan will be drilled and a bung welded on for a screw in internal heating element. I will be doing the same to the oil pan.
For you cold country guys, please chime in if I'm out in left field here. I don't like the type of heating pads that get sealed in externally. I'm also planning a 62 gallon midship fuel tank. Again some advice would be appreciated on anti-gelling agents or ????

I sourced a really nice aftermarket Allison service kit from a local auto parts warehouse.
The part number B-202 The kit ran $47.

F3AA3A9F-DDD7-40D5-AD4A-C93E7BA754AD_1_201_a.jpeg
It came with the a reusable pan gasket (aluminum impregnated with rubber), quality internal filter and seal.
863491A4-5C16-4F23-B7C5-758F45EB91AD.jpeg

The filter was better built than the OEM found inside the Allison. In the past, I change my spin-on filter every other oil change (10K miles) and toped off with the original Dextron fluid. So no neglect on my part as the rig tows decent loads.
The internal filter had signs of oxidation stains so I'm not sure why Allison only recommends replacing this filter at overhaul only. The pan magnet had small amounts of fine magnetic dust particles from normal wear. The pan gasket is the original and going back on this time around. The new one will be used in 5K miles when I replace the pan and internal filter with a deeper pan.
97D5D464-49D4-4128-B831-FD0E8195BEB7.jpeg

I failed to get a photo of the internal valving due to dirty hands but it looks really good. The internal filter seal was also fished out. The new filter seal was installed on the filter and lubed with a dab of Vaseline prior to seating in.
A shot of the 16 yer old chassis. It sure is nice not living in the rustbelt.
54FED685-F717-4762-A3F5-A934C705A0BB.jpeg

It took close to the 2.5 gallons of TranSynd fluid to top this off.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Nice Job and that's a sweet lift! I did the hoot flush method when I switched to Transynd and a deep pan with my truck. I probably wasted a little Transynd making sure I had all the old stuff flushed out. Are you planning any other mods for your trip besides the tranny fluid heater? What kind of temperatures are you expecting?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
260 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Nice Job and that's a sweet lift! I did the hoot flush method when I switched to Transynd and a deep pan with my truck. I probably wasted a little Transynd making sure I had all the old stuff flushed out. Are you planning any other mods for your trip besides the tranny fluid heater? What kind of temperatures are you expecting?
Thanks,
I considered the Hoot flush method but working alone I was paranoid of running low or worse making a huge mess.
I think the Hoot method wastes less fluid than the way I'm doin it but It will work.
As for the other modifications for long remote traveling.
1) larger capacity fuel tank (midship).
2) Deeper oil pan with internal heater.
3) Deeper Transmission pan with internal heater.
4) Upgraded electrical with 2K watt inverter with LiFePO4 batteries and solar.
5) New custom aluminum flatbed with custom under mount storage (home built).
6) Slide in flatbed pop up camper with side access. Not sure if I'll have time to build it, so I might end up ordering one to
my specifications.
7) WiFi boost.
8) Front bumper with winch.

As for low temps for this particular trip, the lows will only be in the mid 20's but since I'm building from scratch I think heaters might be wise in the event I set off for colder weather. I would also like to eventually explore Canada too.
I just not savvy when it comes to cold weather conditions as I've lived in the desert most of my adult life.
I welcome advise from others.

Hears a link to the type of heater I'm considering.
https://www.etrailer.com/Vehicle-Heaters/Kats-Heaters/KH30906.html
Another link for the Mid-ship fuel tank.
p-sb-62-gallon-replacement-fuel-tank-04-10-gm-66l-duramax-crew-cab-short-bed
Feed back please..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Hey Firestopper,

I think you have a great plan. I am not as experienced in the really cold weather living in Oregon. My only thought would be to plan out how many bottles of fuel treatment to prevent gelling you will need for the trip and then add some on top of that as well as some emergency de-gelling liquid as well. The fuel heaters in the tank are going to do a great job of heating the fuel in the tank but there are a lot of fuel line from the tank to the engine that wont be heated.

I also religiously add a pint of tc-w3 2 stroke oil from walmart in every tank. Ever since this solved a problem freeing up the metering valve on a 6.5 with a mechanical injection pump -DB2- that I had I am a believer. This was after using diesel kleen religiously which I think is pretty worthless honestly.


At $2.76 per tank you cant beat it. Tc-w3 is ashless and designed for fuel injected marine outboards. I add one container per tank. I am sure this would not hurt your cold weather starts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Side note - if you have an international truck dealer they stock allison parts such as Transynd, filters and pans etc. in stock. They are the cheapest place I have found for the genuine allison red external spin on filters.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
260 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hey Firestopper,

I think you have a great plan. I am not as experienced in the really cold weather living in Oregon. My only thought would be to plan out how many bottles of fuel treatment to prevent gelling you will need for the trip and then add some on top of that as well as some emergency de-gelling liquid as well. The fuel heaters in the tank are going to do a great job of heating the fuel in the tank but there are a lot of fuel line from the tank to the engine that wont be heated.

I also religiously add a pint of tc-w3 2 stroke oil from walmart in every tank. Ever since this solved a problem freeing up the metering valve on a 6.5 with a mechanical injection pump -DB2- that I had I am a believer. This was after using diesel kleen religiously which I think is pretty worthless honestly.


At $2.76 per tank you cant beat it. Tc-w3 is ashless and designed for fuel injected marine outboards. I add one container per tank. I am sure this would not hurt your cold weather starts.
Thanks for the input on the anti-gel additive. I had not considered a fuel tank heater as I was under the impression the additives would protect the fuel system. I'll have to search further.
On the 2 stoke oil, I see many guys use this for lubricity especially since the diesel has gone to ultra low sulfur (15 PPM vs 500PPM).
I started using this stuff called Power Curve XP back in 06 when diesel was stripped of higher sulfur.
It's a bit pricy at $48 but only requires 2.5oz per 26 gallons. If my math is correct, this runs me $3.55/2.5oz.
(33.8/2.5=13.52 13.52/48=3.55) . I will add, the truck has never thrown a code or gone into limp but I also maintain the rig well. It has two fuel filters (since new). The pre OEM filter gets changed every 12K and both Pre OEM and OEM get changed every 24K. I have never ran a lift pump but will add twin Kennedy's when I swap out the fuel tank.
Thanks for the link on the 2 stroke oil, I'll give it a try moving forward.
tempImageBtkCEU.png


Side note - if you have an international truck dealer they stock allison parts such as Transynd, filters and pans etc. in stock. They are the cheapest place I have found for the genuine allison red external spin on filters.
I pay just over $6 for an Allison spin on filter and $40/gal for the TranSynd fluid from a local Velocity Truck center (Freightliner). The same oil and filter run $62 and $9+ at W.W. Williams.
I'd like to find the oil a bit cheaper locally but haven't been able.
Thank again for the feedback DieselMcGee.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
It sounds like you have a good source for the Allison parts already. I am sure additives would work well. I don't knowhow safe an internal tank heater would be. It is diesel but its still fuel. It was just a though. Maybe you could plumb in some ball valves with tees and create a short fluid path with some reptile heating pads. Wire in a manual switch for the Kennedy pumps and you could pump fuel through the heated section and immediately return it to the tank. Just talking out loud and maybe I am creating a solution for a problem that doesn't exist. Just back to the same old problem, time and money.

I really like the walmart 2 stroke oil. It fixed my old 6.5 so I am a believer. I am not familiar with the product you have. If I had a newer truck with a DPF then I would definitely look for an additive like you have that was more concentrated as I think adding 16 oz of 2 stroke oil to every tank would cause more maintenance with that system. With the older LBZ and no DPF I am happy to add a pint of tc-w3 each tank.

Another reason which is more personal preference is the pint containers. I open it, empty it and throw it away. I am not dealing with open containers in my truck that smell and can leak. Again that's just a personal preference and something I did not like about diesel kleen or other additives.

I haven't been able to find the link as its an older article but a diesel mag did a head to head a long time ago with the top ten most common fuel additives and the lubricity they added back to the fuel. This was right around mid 2000's when they started removing sulfur from the fuel. I don't remember if they measured cetane rating or had some other similar metric but it was somewhat scientific. Surprisingly B5 which is 95% #2 and 5% bio diesel had the highest cetane / lubricity rating with no additional additives. I think the mpg decreased slightly with the B5 but it was pretty insignificant. Tc-w3 2 stroke oil was #2 on the list. All of the commercial fuel additives were listed after. If I can ever find that article again I will post it.

Whenever I am up here on Fort Lewis I always fill up with B5. I have never had any negative issues. I have heard not to run B20 or higher without a new fuel filter on hand as this can cause fuel filter clogging issues.

I also have the nicktane CAT adapter and the lower micron CAT UHE filter on there. I have the second NickTane and remote head to install with a larger micron CAT filter with water separator since I removed the stock one. I also have a dual Kennedy lift pump setup to install, just haven't gotten around to those yet. I am going to try and mount the second fuel filter in the engine bay but haven't really figured out a great spot yet. With a farm truck driving in hay fields and such I am not a fan of fuel components hanging down past the frame.


Anyway I am just rambling now. Good luck with your setup!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
260 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks again for the feedback.
The fuel return line heaters might be a good option.
You point out very good reasons for the smaller pre measured one time use 2-stroke oil bottle. The stuff I use does require gloves and a HD zip lock bag. I'll give the Wally world oil a try. As for Bio diesel, Its not very convenient to find around here but a few guys I know mix their own (or used to).

I added a remote pre-OEM fuel filter when the truck was new as the earlier LB7 were plagued with injector problems.
I installed many of these kits for for co-workers and friends back then. I used to source them from Lubrication Specality for under $200. They were a well thought out kit with quality parts. I run a Baldwin filter and a OEM filter on the filter head. It mounts where a secondary alternator would be. Like you, I'm not comfortable having filters hang on the under carriage.

Like I mentioned, I do plan on a twin Kennedy lift pump when I install the larger capacity fuel tank. At this point when I have the bed off I can design or consider a fuel warming system if even required.

Heres the pre OEM secondary filter. Easy access and easy to draw a sample. It gets changed every 12K while the OEM every 24K. So far I have never had water contamination. All injectors are original.
IMG_3464.JPG

Thanks again for the feedback.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
I really like that set up. I was going back and forth between Kennedy's under air filter box position and that second alternator position. Now that I see your set up I am going to use that second alternator mounting position. I think I am going to use the stock filter head as the first filter though so I can install the cat filter with the water separator and drain and have room to drain it, the second filter will go into the second filter mount spot as it's shorter.

Diesel Fuel Pressure Thread Adapter for Chevrolet GM Duramax 6.6L

Since the stock filter head will be first in line this will also allow me to install a pressure gauge in the bleed screw hole tied into my edge Insight to measure lift pump pressure in the cab. I just need to modify the mounting brackets now to fit in that second alternator position.

How long is that Baldwin filter?

And man you have a clean truck!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
260 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I really like that set up. I was going back and forth between Kennedy's under air filter box position and that second alternator position. Now that I see your set up I am going to use that second alternator mounting position. I think I am going to use the stock filter head as the first filter though so I can install the cat filter with the water separator and drain and have room to drain it, the second filter will go into the second filter mount spot as it's shorter.

Diesel Fuel Pressure Thread Adapter for Chevrolet GM Duramax 6.6L

Since the stock filter head will be first in line this will also allow me to install a pressure gauge in the bleed screw hole tied into my edge Insight to measure lift pump pressure in the cab. I just need to modify the mounting brackets now to fit in that second alternator position.

How long is that Baldwin filter?

And man you have a clean truck!!
I've been pleased with fuel filter kit. The main reason I plumbed it "PRE-OEM" was accessibility. I can easily remove/replace this filter quickly even out in the field. That said I also service this one 2:1 compared to the OEM.

I like the idea of a fuel pressure gauge but I would like to see an adaptor that also has a bleed screw. With your lift pumps yourr able to prime the system without manually priming so an adaptor with a side bleed might be cool to have that way you won't have to mess with the entire adaptor ( Step 3 on instruction link above).

The Baldwin filter I run is a BF1223 and is just over 6-3/4" with a drain and 4-1/4" wide.

Thanks, the rig, well she's papered but works hard when used.

I'd like to see you do a write up on this project. I'm a fan..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Haha thanks for the faith in the write ups. I will see what I can do. I have been accumulating parts and I have a list. I know it's a lot but I don't ever plan on selling this truck. I would never buy a new diesel with the emissions going the way they are. I understand the purpose behind Regens but there is no way I want to own a truck that does that.

Have but need to install:

1. FlowPro up pipes, downpipe, boost tube to delete my egr. I think I will order the Y bridge because I have read more than one horror story about blowing the connection apart in the valley even with the strap.

2. Sinister diesel coolant filtration kit. I ordered this because when I drained my coolant and swapped over to Delo extended life coolant (Red, for big trucks) I could see a good 1"-2" of sand down in the bottom of the radiator with no way to drain it out. I am hoping the coolant filter will slowly remove this from the system. I was originally planning on installing this in the 2'nd alternator spot but I think I will put the coolant filter under the air filter box now after seeing your set up.

3. Power steering / Hydro boost fluid cooler. This is a GM part for an 8.1 big block but works on duramax's. This still leaves room for an upgraded transmission cooler.

641129
not my truck, from another write up.

4. Stainless hard brake lines. Not looking forward to this. I will order the Russel stainless braided flexible lines that you installed so I can put those on also when I do this.

5. Kennedy diesel dual lift pump set up. I will order the Edge components for monitoring fuel pressure.

6. Second auxiliary fuel filter.

Going to order this month

7. Kennedy Diesel custom tune.

8. Fred's rear dually wheel spacers and tires. My plan is a 1.5" spacer so I can run 265/75/16s. I would really like to run a 2" spacer so no stud grinding is required with 285/75/16s but I don't want tires sticking out past the fender and throwing up rocks and mud on our gravel roads or back into trailers.

9. Cognito pitman arm support brackets along with two Bilstein (24-186735) 5100 Series Front Shock Absorbers. These are for 0"-2" of lift. I will do a slight crank on my torsion bars to level the truck when I put these on. I also need to replace the non existing lower control arm bumpers.

10. Mike L's transmission cooler if I can get a hold of him or just order a Setrab if I can figure out fitting that will directly connect to the transmission cooler hard lines.

11. Back up camera and connect it to the edge insight.

If only I could get a week alone with my truck..... haha.

That's some solid reasoning on the primary (1'st inline) filter being the Baldwin, definitely a lot easier to change. Also a good point on the bleeder screw. I should still have a method for easily bleeding air from the system. Maybe I will tee in a ball valve just for bleeding purposes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
On a side note this is one of the best mods / upgrades I have done on the truck. Super smart and simple. Just a little circuit board with some diodes that sends power to your low beams and fog lights when you turn on your high beams. The diodes keep power from flowing back the other way. I installed all LEDs on the truck when I did this so it is bright and such an improvement in safety when driving at night. Super simple to install. Just pull the high, low and fog light relays, drop this small circuit board down and plug the relays back in.

I would definitely recommend this upgrade before your trip.

641130
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
260 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Haha thanks for the faith in the write ups. I will see what I can do. I have been accumulating parts and I have a list. I know it's a lot but I don't ever plan on selling this truck. I would never buy a new diesel with the emissions going the way they are. I understand the purpose behind Regens but there is no way I want to own a truck that does that.

Have but need to install:

1. FlowPro up pipes, downpipe, boost tube to delete my egr. I think I will order the Y bridge because I have read more than one horror story about blowing the connection apart in the valley even with the strap.

2. Sinister diesel coolant filtration kit. I ordered this because when I drained my coolant and swapped over to Delo extended life coolant (Red, for big trucks) I could see a good 1"-2" of sand down in the bottom of the radiator with no way to drain it out. I am hoping the coolant filter will slowly remove this from the system. I was originally planning on installing this in the 2'nd alternator spot but I think I will put the coolant filter under the air filter box now after seeing your set up.

3. Power steering / Hydro boost fluid cooler. This is a GM part for an 8.1 big block but works on duramax's. This still leaves room for an upgraded transmission cooler.

View attachment 641129 not my truck, from another write up.

4. Stainless hard brake lines. Not looking forward to this. I will order the Russel stainless braided flexible lines that you installed so I can put those on also when I do this.

5. Kennedy diesel dual lift pump set up. I will order the Edge components for monitoring fuel pressure.

6. Second auxiliary fuel filter.

Going to order this month

7. Kennedy Diesel custom tune.

8. Fred's rear dually wheel spacers and tires. My plan is a 1.5" spacer so I can run 265/75/16s. I would really like to run a 2" spacer so no stud grinding is required with 285/75/16s but I don't want tires sticking out past the fender and throwing up rocks and mud on our gravel roads or back into trailers.

9. Cognito pitman arm support brackets along with two Bilstein (24-186735) 5100 Series Front Shock Absorbers. These are for 0"-2" of lift. I will do a slight crank on my torsion bars to level the truck when I put these on. I also need to replace the non existing lower control arm bumpers.

10. Mike L's transmission cooler if I can get a hold of him or just order a Setrab if I can figure out fitting that will directly connect to the transmission cooler hard lines.

11. Back up camera and connect it to the edge insight.

If only I could get a week alone with my truck..... haha.

That's some solid reasoning on the primary (1'st inline) filter being the Baldwin, definitely a lot easier to change. Also a good point on the bleeder screw. I should still have a method for easily bleeding air from the system. Maybe I will tee in a ball valve just for bleeding purposes.
All good upgrades your planning and have executed. My son lives in the same town you do so no emissions testing required. I'm with you on keeping our older rigs. I love the new trucks but the bs associated with the emissions systems would frustrate me to no end.
I added a PS cooler when I changed out my PS lines and hydro-boost. I'm hoping this will extend the life of the pump and hydro-boost.
Not sure if your familiar with my filter head bleed screw set up but its been on the rig since the auxiliary fuel filter was added. I basically replaced the bleed screw with a brass bushing and a T-valve with a teflon line allowing me to bleed the system without the mess and risk of compromising the seal.

I've posted this before but I think you could befit from this. You could use something similar, but instead of threading the valve in first, you could find a 1.5-2" adaptor with a threaded side port and top port allowing you to bleed and have a gauge tap. The teflon line runs down to the lower edge of the inner wheel well and is zip tied. A small jar is placed on the UCA to catch the fuel while purging. Once I add the dual Kennedy lift pumps, bleeding will be a breeze using the momentary switch he sells.
42079783-9711-4315-8EA8-FFAB9AD5A59E.jpeg

You say you have sand in your radiator? Thats disturbing. Have you experienced water pump failure? I would highly recommend pulling the radiator and flushing out as much as possible. I remember when the Ford 6.0 were first introduced, aside from other failures, It was discovered that casting sand was somehow left in the blocks adding to the long list of problems for that engine. My neighbor had a new F-350 back then and Ford bought it back (Lemmon law). That rig spent the first six months at the dealer after he purchased it.
On a side note this is one of the best mods / upgrades I have done on the truck. Super smart and simple. Just a little circuit board with some diodes that sends power to your low beams and fog lights when you turn on your high beams. The diodes keep power from flowing back the other way. I installed all LEDs on the truck when I did this so it is bright and such an improvement in safety when driving at night. Super simple to install. Just pull the high, low and fog light relays, drop this small circuit board down and plug the relays back in.

I would definitely recommend this upgrade before your trip.

View attachment 641130
Ive seen these driving light models, a great option. I might consider this but will have to see what custom front bumper I come up with. I might have a dedicated circuit and switch. This are a very cool and simple way to control auxiliary lighting or other accessories. One wire controls eight switches. The switch panel is thin and can be surface mounted.
I little pricy but clean and simple making troubleshooting a breeze in the field not to mention installation.
switch-pros-sp-9100-8-switch-panel-power-system
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
All good upgrades your planning and have executed. My son lives in the same town you do so no emissions testing required. I'm with you on keeping our older rigs. I love the new trucks but the bs associated with the emissions systems would frustrate me to no end.
I added a PS cooler when I changed out my PS lines and hydro-boost. I'm hoping this will extend the life of the pump and hydro-boost.
Not sure if your familiar with my filter head bleed screw set up but its been on the rig since the auxiliary fuel filter was added. I basically replaced the bleed screw with a brass bushing and a T-valve with a teflon line allowing me to bleed the system without the mess and risk of compromising the seal.

I've posted this before but I think you could befit from this. You could use something similar, but instead of threading the valve in first, you could find a 1.5-2" adaptor with a threaded side port and top port allowing you to bleed and have a gauge tap. The teflon line runs down to the lower edge of the inner wheel well and is zip tied. A small jar is placed on the UCA to catch the fuel while purging. Once I add the dual Kennedy lift pumps, bleeding will be a breeze using the momentary switch he sells.
View attachment 641134
You say you have sand in your radiator? Thats disturbing. Have you experienced water pump failure? I would highly recommend pulling the radiator and flushing out as much as possible. I remember when the Ford 6.0 were first introduced, aside from other failures, It was discovered that casting sand was somehow left in the blocks adding to the long list of problems for that engine. My neighbor had a new F-350 back then and Ford bought it back (Lemmon law). That rig spent the first six months at the dealer after he purchased it.


Ive seen these driving light models, a great option. I might consider this but will have to see what custom front bumper I come up with. I might have a dedicated circuit and switch. This are a very cool and simple way to control auxiliary lighting or other accessories. One wire controls eight switches. The switch panel is thin and can be surface mounted.
I little pricy but clean and simple making troubleshooting a breeze in the field not to mention installation.
switch-pros-sp-9100-8-switch-panel-power-system
That is a great set up with the T valve. I will definitely look at installing a tee and adding a valve with the sensor.

Where does the momentary switch mount? Under the hood? Does it plug directly into the connectors that KD has with his kit? Just thinking it must by pass the oil pressure sensor.

Yes you are right. I should probably pull the radiator and flush it. When I order a new transmission cooler I will plan on doing it when I install the power steering / transmission cooler.

I will probably order one of the forever power steering line kit the next time the power steering lines leak. Changing the line which runs down to the steering gear box was a real pain in the ass.

That solid state switch assembly is awesome. Would a single Din mounting kit work to mount it in the lower opening on the console like the CB radio here?
641459
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
260 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That is a great set up with the T valve. I will definitely look at installing a tee and adding a valve with the sensor.

Where does the momentary switch mount? Under the hood? Does it plug directly into the connectors that KD has with his kit? Just thinking it must by pass the oil pressure sensor.

Yes you are right. I should probably pull the radiator and flush it. When I order a new transmission cooler I will plan on doing it when I install the power steering / transmission cooler.

I will probably order one of the forever power steering line kit the next time the power steering lines leak. Changing the line which runs down to the steering gear box was a real pain in the ass.

That solid state switch assembly is awesome. Would a single Din mounting kit work to mount it in the lower opening on the console like the CB radio here?
View attachment 641459
On the Kennedy momentary switch. Yes it can be mounted to the firewall or wherever you like but for sure under the hood. The button "one shot "allows the pumps to run momentarily to prime the filters without running the engine.
I think its included in there deluxe kit, or this one.
On your CB question, I'm not sure I follow you. If you'r asking where the switch plate would mount, It can really go wherever you rout the single cable as the switch plate is flat.
Take care my friend.
Paco
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
On the Kennedy momentary switch. Yes it can be mounted to the firewall or wherever you like but for sure under the hood. The button "one shot "allows the pumps to run momentarily to prime the filters without running the engine.
I think its included in there deluxe kit, or this one.
On your CB question, I'm not sure I follow you. If you'r asking where the switch plate would mount, It can really go wherever you rout the single cable as the switch plate is flat.
Take care my friend.
Paco
Yes you are right. My deluxe kit comes with the one shot relay switch on the bottom of the pump control box. Didn't know that was there so a big thanks for pointing that out. Mr. Kennedy really did put a thorough kit together.

Sorry for the obtuse question. Will the switch plate would fit in a single DIN or double DIN radio mount kit? Where are you planning on mounting yours?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,428 Posts
Firestopper, cold weather and diesels, you say? Well, fwiw...

In another life, I ran heavy equipment in Michigan for years. For site work, we pretty much parked everything when the temps got in the single digits. They just didn't wanna run. When I worked in a 24/7/365 operation, we left the machines running 24/7 when it got in the single digits. If not, they'd freeze up. The fuel lines would. Hydraulics too. We had diesel fuel anti-freeze added to the storage tanks, but also added it to the machine fuel tanks when it got that cold. I've even seen fuel lines freeze while the machine was running. We'd build fires under the belly pans sometimes just to get them started. 20 pound propane torches came in handy many times.

How much of this info is useful today, Idk. And like you, I've been in the desert awhile now. Things may have changed. I know I left my own diesel truck plugged in during winter in MI and blocked off the grill with cardboard. Leaving them run all day was normal when on site and near single digits. Get this, the tracks on machines would freeze to the ground and even the rollers (grease bath) would freeze and not turn. So we'd park the track machines on wood or straw as they'd freeze to the ground. Anyhow, that's all I got ;-)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,428 Posts
I guess I could add a little on Transynd switch too...

Years back I called and spoke with Tom Johnson. He's the fluid engineer that wrote the fluid spec for the Allison way back and he used to be a regular on the truck sites. Anyhow, he instructed me to do the double fluid change (about 100 miles in between the changes) and external filter only. Which I did. And he told me I should be good to go basically forever with my TES-295 fluid now. That it'd be somewhere beyond 150,000 miles (iirc) before I'd need to consider another fluid change and saying that time had no effect on this tranny fluid assuming no external contamination. But to do the spin-on filter every 12,000 to 25,000. Which I do. But, I also don't tow a thing. Used to tow a 21 foot ski boat on occasion. But that's nothing.

He also told me that I could forget about trying to save the seals from hardening by switching to TES-295 as any damage, if there was any, was already done. I changed over around 50,000 miles I think.

Edit: Because my memory sux: Alli 1000 seals and DEX VI vs. TES-295 and Info: - Former Allison Fluids Engineer (Here to Help)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
260 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Firestopper, cold weather and diesels, you say? Well, fwiw...

In another life, I ran heavy equipment in Michigan for years. For site work, we pretty much parked everything when the temps got in the single digits. They just didn't wanna run. When I worked in a 24/7/365 operation, we left the machines running 24/7 when it got in the single digits. If not, they'd freeze up. The fuel lines would. Hydraulics too. We had diesel fuel anti-freeze added to the storage tanks, but also added it to the machine fuel tanks when it got that cold. I've even seen fuel lines freeze while the machine was running. We'd build fires under the belly pans sometimes just to get them started. 20 pound propane torches came in handy many times.

How much of this info is useful today, Idk. And like you, I've been in the desert awhile now. Things may have changed. I know I left my own diesel truck plugged in during winter in MI and blocked off the grill with cardboard. Leaving them run all day was normal when on site and near single digits. Get this, the tracks on machines would freeze to the ground and even the rollers (grease bath) would freeze and not turn. So we'd park the track machines on wood or straw as they'd freeze to the ground. Anyhow, that's all I got ;-)
I guess I could add a little on Transynd switch too...

Years back I called and spoke with Tom Johnson. He's the fluid engineer that wrote the fluid spec for the Allison way back and he used to be a regular on the truck sites. Anyhow, he instructed me to do the double fluid change (about 100 miles in between the changes) and external filter only. Which I did. And he told me I should be good to go basically forever with my TES-295 fluid now. That it'd be somewhere beyond 150,000 miles (iirc) before I'd need to consider another fluid change and saying that time had no effect on this tranny fluid assuming no external contamination. But to do the spin-on filter every 12,000 to 25,000. Which I do. But, I also don't tow a thing. Used to tow a 21 foot ski boat on occasion. But that's nothing.

He also told me that I could forget about trying to save the seals from hardening by switching to TES-295 as any damage, if there was any, was already done. I changed over around 50,000 miles I think.

Edit: Because my memory sux: Alli 1000 seals and DEX VI vs. TES-295 and Info: - Former Allison Fluids Engineer (Here to Help)
Good information, Thank you.

Well I really don't plan on exploring in single digit temp but can imagine teens and 20's. Do you think I should still follow through with the Tranny and oil pan internal heaters? The heaters are fairly inexpensive and I'll machine my own bungs to weld in so one;y out of pocket will be the heat elements. I was planning a dedicated 110vac source for those and the block heater for overnight stops. I understand the diesel additives are a must when curing #2 diesel. Am I correct in assuming as I travel north during cold months the the diesel sold would be #1 diesel. Am I also correct that #2 diesel is better than #1 as it has more energy components. So I'm thinking to use as much #2 as possible with anti-gel additives for better lubricity vs full tanks of #1. I just don't know much about cold weather diesel fuel options. I also assume the mixing of #1 and 2 diesels is ok. My HS machine shop teacher used to say "Assuming makes an a$$ of you and me". So I wanted to get some advice on this subject.
Bottom line, will treated #2 of #1 diesel work in teen temps? Are there any fuel heaters on the market?
I'm curious to hear from any Canadians, Montanans, North Dakotans, well you get the picture.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,428 Posts
Good information, Thank you.

Well I really don't plan on exploring in single digit temp but can imagine teens and 20's. Do you think I should still follow through with the Tranny and oil pan internal heaters? The heaters are fairly inexpensive and I'll machine my own bungs to weld in so one;y out of pocket will be the heat elements. I was planning a dedicated 110vac source for those and the block heater for overnight stops. I understand the diesel additives are a must when curing #2 diesel. Am I correct in assuming as I travel north during cold months the the diesel sold would be #1 diesel. Am I also correct that #2 diesel is better than #1 as it has more energy components. So I'm thinking to use as much #2 as possible with anti-gel additives for better lubricity vs full tanks of #1. I just don't know much about cold weather diesel fuel options. I also assume the mixing of #1 and 2 diesels is ok. My HS machine shop teacher used to say "Assuming makes an a$$ of you and me". So I wanted to get some advice on this subject.
Bottom line, will treated #2 of #1 diesel work in teen temps? Are there any fuel heaters on the market?
I'm curious to hear from any Canadians, Montanans, North Dakotans, well you get the picture.
Yea, you need guys that have been in it in the last 20 years. My experience is from before ULSD. Even off road is ULSD now. We used to run ruby red (off road) in everything when we could get away with not getting busted. It never hurt back then. This was from before all the emissions crap.

I can tell ya mixing 1 & 2 doesn't hurt. Heaters won't hurt. As you travel north, fuel, like batteries, will be made / formulated for those temps. We couldn't just keep adding diesel fuel anti-freeze as the engines wouldn't run well. If you're not seeing regular single digits, I can't imagine you'll have the issues we did. I recall one time helping Dad work on his cab-over semi-truck in MI. He broke down right in traffic with frozen fuel lines. We got out the torches and wrenches and worked the ice out. Took HOURS. And then, when we got it running, the cab was stuck in the air from frozen hydraulics. And night was setting in. I don't recall what happened after that. Probably blocked it out ;-)

Hopefully some Michiganders or Canadians will chime in for ya.

Edit: Oh, I forgot. The best advice for fuel I can think of is to fill up at night so it sits full. Less air = less water vapor = less likely to freeze / grow algae / gel. That's great advice regardless of temps. Standard practice is to fuel fleets before parking for those very reasons. And, before we'd start up those million dollar pieces of equipment after they sat overnight, we'd drain a bit from the bottom of the fuel tanks to get the water out. And there was water. Same thing in flying. Even today, I still try and keep my fuel tanks over half full. Just less air.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top