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I just bought a 06 2500 LBZ truck from a friend of mine. It was owned by his in laws and ran when parked but has not been touched in about 2 years. I am having the truck towed to my house. The batteries are shot and I also know the fuel guage stopped working right before it was parked. They say it just stays on empty.

Im leaning toward siphoning out as much of the old fuel as I can, putting fresh diesel and maybe a additive to it to disperse water if there is any, changing the fuel filter, changing the oil, putting a fresh set of batteries in it and seeing what it will do.

My debate is on whether I should drop the tank to make sure all the old fuel is out of it and replacing the sending unit while Im there since the guage isnt working or should I just stick with my plan above.

I have had a couple people tell me that diesel doesnt go bad like gas and it should be fine. Just put batteries in it and fire it up. The say there shouldnt be any water in the fuel from condensation and if so to rely on the WIF sensor and fuel filter.

Im torn and dont want to cost myself damage to the injectors or pump because of being lazy and running the old fuel.

Also what is the best way to go about siphoning out the old fuel? just running a siphon down the filler neck?
 

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Drop the tank siphon all old fuel out, change filters (fuel and oil), oil and batteries all good ideas. Old diesel does go bad in the way of microbial growth that destroys your pump and injectors. After you drain all old fuel add clean fuel and a microbial growth killer like Bio Kleen by power service and a great fuel system lubricator like Fuel Power by FPPF Oriellys carries both.
 

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I just bought a 06 2500 LBZ truck from a friend of mine. It was owned by his in laws and ran when parked but has not been touched in about 2 years. I am having the truck towed to my house. The batteries are shot and I also know the fuel guage stopped working right before it was parked. They say it just stays on empty.

Im leaning toward siphoning out as much of the old fuel as I can, putting fresh diesel and maybe a additive to it to disperse water if there is any, changing the fuel filter, changing the oil, putting a fresh set of batteries in it and seeing what it will do.

My debate is on whether I should drop the tank to make sure all the old fuel is out of it and replacing the sending unit while Im there since the guage isnt working or should I just stick with my plan above.

I have had a couple people tell me that diesel doesnt go bad like gas and it should be fine. Just put batteries in it and fire it up. The say there shouldnt be any water in the fuel from condensation and if so to rely on the WIF sensor and fuel filter.

Im torn and dont want to cost myself damage to the injectors or pump because of being lazy and running the old fuel.

Also what is the best way to go about siphoning out the old fuel? just running a siphon down the filler neck?
Welcome to DieselPlace

I've seen old Detroit Diesels Fire up after 30-40 years on their tanks. as long as the fuel does not smell like turpentine and does not have algae growth, it will be fine.
I would drain the tank, replace the sender and reuse the fuel.

Best way to siphon would be to get a cheap fuel pump, run a hose to the tank and then power the pump to get the fuel into a container.
There are also hand pumps you can buy to siphon fuel from tanks
 
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Since your dropping the fuel tank, look over the chassis ground nearest the filler hose. It should be closer to the drivers side rear corner of the cab. When I lost this ground, my gauge read empty. If the rigs been living outside for the past two years, I would look over the entire rig for evidence of rodent damage. The LBZ is a excellent generation.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Since your dropping the fuel tank, look over the chassis ground nearest the filler hose. It should be closer to the drivers side rear corner of the cab. When I lost this ground, my gauge read empty. If the rigs been living outside for the past two years, I would look over the entire rig for evidence of rodent damage. The LBZ is a excellent generation.

Im really torn on dropping the tank and spending $4-500 on the sending unit. On one side I trust the people I got the truck from and see no reason for it to not fire up after taking some preventative measures. It would be nice if I could just siphon out the fuel through the filler neck, change filters and fluids and move on.

I dont mind dropping the tank to thoroughly make sure its clean and if I there I might as well do the sending unit.

Ill check the ground for the fuel guage. It could also be the cluster, who knows.
 

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GM states not to use an emulsifer as an additive - e.g. disperses the moisture and puts it into suspension in the fuel. It can damage the injectors - the emulsion turns to steam and expands quickly when it leaving the injector. Damages the tip of the injector.

The fuel gage stuck on zero could be an issue with the instrument cluster. You can probably check the fuel level with a scanner to confirm whether it is the sender or the gage itself. The stepper motors or the solder joints have a tendency to fail in the in the instrument cluster. Another thought - if the sender is indicating "zero" - the driver info center display would indicate low fuel and probably "chime".

jeff
 

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It’s not a question of whether it will start because it will. It’s a question about damaging your investment and adding unnecessary cost for a fix due to poor startup procedure. All the advice above (expect the emulsifier) is wise. I have no idea about the condition of your truck but a low mileage, premium ’06 Duramax just sold around here for $29,500. The costs of new fuel, filters, etc. are trivial to the value you have. You don’t want to run around with a dead fuel gauge so you are going to fix that anyway. You just need to determine if it is the sender or the cluster. I suggest testing the sender without touching the tank first. I guess (meaning I don’t know) the sender sends out a millivolt signal. Attach a VOM somehow to it and jack the truck up on one side and then drop it down fast enough to make the fuel slosh then see if the VOM has a reading. I hope that works and if it does that test cost nothing. Or . . . read the comments and we will both learn if I have a poor idea!
 

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I just bought a 06 2500 LBZ truck from a friend of mine. It was owned by his in laws and ran when parked but has not been touched in about 2 years. I am having the truck towed to my house. The batteries are shot and I also know the fuel guage stopped working right before it was parked. They say it just stays on empty.

Im leaning toward siphoning out as much of the old fuel as I can, putting fresh diesel and maybe a additive to it to disperse water if there is any, changing the fuel filter, changing the oil, putting a fresh set of batteries in it and seeing what it will do.

My debate is on whether I should drop the tank to make sure all the old fuel is out of it and replacing the sending unit while Im there since the guage isnt working or should I just stick with my plan above.

I have had a couple people tell me that diesel doesnt go bad like gas and it should be fine. Just put batteries in it and fire it up. The say there shouldnt be any water in the fuel from condensation and if so to rely on the WIF sensor and fuel filter.

Im torn and dont want to cost myself damage to the injectors or pump because of being lazy and running the old fuel.

Also what is the best way to go about siphoning out the old fuel? just running a siphon down the filler neck?
If you have a engine hoist you could just remove the bed. There's only 8 bolts.
 

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I always pull the bed when accessing the fuel
tank. I use a Hyster tho. 😎
 

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I always pull the bed.
The fuel sender can be found on ebay or Amazon for around $35-50, the sender you have priced is either a dealer price or the the one that contains the fuel pump which is for a 2006 gasser but not a Duramax, Duramax has no fuel pump in the tank. The after market sender is a Dorman or other and requires slight modification to your current sender, but they work great. The application is for an 04.5 and up, 04 down reads backwards. I don't have the number as I am out of town and number is on home computer. Application is actually for 06 gasser and does not have a pump but works fine on Duramax, mine has been in for about 7 years, no issues. Drain tank, let contents settle to make sure there is no water or algae and reuse fuel and add fresh. I had 7 year old fuel in a Cummins powered motor home and it runs fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I always pull the bed.
The fuel sender can be found on ebay or Amazon for around $35-50, the sender you have priced is either a dealer price or the the one that contains the fuel pump which is for a 2006 gasser but not a Duramax, Duramax has no fuel pump in the tank. The after market sender is a Dorman or other and requires slight modification to your current sender, but they work great. The application is for an 04.5 and up, 04 down reads backwards. I don't have the number as I am out of town and number is on home computer. Application is actually for 06 gasser and does not have a pump but works fine on Duramax, mine has been in for about 7 years, no issues. Drain tank, let contents settle to make sure there is no water or algae and reuse fuel and add fresh. I had 7 year old fuel in a Cummins powered motor home and it runs fine.
Ended up deciding to do a mixture of the advice here and what I was initially thinking. I siphoned out as much old fuel as I could and captured some of it in a clear container. I replaced the fuel filter and put 10 gallons of fresh diesel in it. A new set of batteries and after checking the fuel I pumped out which didn't appear to have any water separating or visible debris in it I fired the truck up.

My thoughts were that I didn't want to spend the money or my labor if the truck had other issues. I know the folks I bought the truck from and know the story behind it but wanted to hear it run.

Truck runs fine and now allows me to diag the issues.

It does have the fuel guage reading on empty with the fuel light on so its most likely the sending unit, I will pull the bed and hopefully use the cheaper fix you mentioned. I was pricing GM 19331306 which replaces the entire in tank assembly.

Running the truck unearthed issues which I am waiting on parts for.
-trans cooler line is leaking from where the rubber meets the hard line (DHD repair kit is ordered)
-throwing a coolant code which Im assuming is either thermostats or the sensor (new thermostats are ordered)
-Throwing a P0088 code for high fuel pressure. The truck does not have a lift pump and is stock besides a 4" exhaust and very mild tuning. I dont have in depth tools to diag this but Im going to try a fuel pressure regulator and see what happens
-I already knew the hydra boost was seeping pretty good and have a 2011 LML hyrdraboost on the way as well.
 

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Thanks for the update. Good move on replacing the trans lines. The OEM lines are miserable and GM never fixed or improved the problem on the early models.
 
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Fuel sender for 04.5 - 07 Duramax is the Dorman 911-024 or equivalent
Requires some modification to your old unit but once it is done and the sender fits back in the tank, you are good to go.

Sender for 01 - 04.5 is 911-005, they are not interchangeable as the early unit will read backwards on later models and vise versa.
 
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